Article by Nelson Khor

Website: http://www.pbase.com/me_photoshots/

This is my 1st Birds Photograph trip in Taiwan before was few business/holiday trip, still remember my last visit Taiwan was year 2001.

This trip we have three person, Makus, Ng Ban Hor (Mr No Good) and Me, Makus is responsible of ” Bird List ” mean in charge of what bird is our wish list, of course he will have the long list to Taiwan, No Good will be responsible of financial, in charge of cash in cash out… me will be responsible of Trip arrange and bird guide and including food + visit Street Night Market in Taiwan.

It about three month we survey and ask around and finally we found the bird guide we need, she was recommend by few of my Taiwan bird friend from bird forum. She also a Bird Photographer so is the right person we choose.

We start to discuss in detail about when, ticket, location, bird….. etc.

OK, we are really to fly and just wait for the time to arrive, in this trip I just brought two lens, 600mm F4L, 17-40mm F4L and new toy 7D.

Day 1 – Taiwan (台灣)

I’m flight from Penang to KL airport to met Makus and No Good, than we take Malaysia air line direct to Taoyuan International Airport (桃園中正機場), it about 4.5 hours to reach there, the local time is 2:15PM(same as Malaysia). Our Bird Guide Ms Dot Cool (珮文) is just waiting at the arrival hall and welcome us, 1st step walk out from the air port, it really windy and cool, not very cold, it about 20℃ . ( Too bad, Taipei weather will be cloudy and rain, and this will continue for a week, but this was told before, so we are well prepare )

We directly go for our 1st target, Pied Avocet, that time was strong wing and cold also start rain, it about 15℃ , from the picture you can know the condition of shooting this Pied Avocet, too bad it become Eagle’s breakfast few days later.

Pied Avocet ( 反嘴鴴 )

After we go for dinner at on the way to hotel for Taiwan local food, Beef Noodle (牛肉麵) & Oyster Vermicelli (蚵仔麵線) than check in Hotel in town and prepare for the day 2.

Beef Noodle (牛肉麵)

Oyster vermicelli (蚵仔麵線)

Day 2 – Yehliu Park (野柳公園)
Yehliu (野柳) is a cape on the north coast of Taiwan in the town of Wanli between Taipei and Keelung also where the migrant bird will by pass before to another location, it belong to one of the famous Tourist attractions, so we have to go early morning before the tourist. Quite a promising place but only the weather is bad…. we are shooting in raining condition for the whole morning, also we meet a lot of Taiwan Birds Photographer there, they are nice and friendly.

Grey Backed Thrush ( 灰背鶇 )

Daurian Redstart ( 黃尾鴝 )

Japanese Robin ( 日本歌鴝 )

Japanese Bush Warbler( 短翅樹鶯 )

Siberian Rubythroat ( 野鴝 )

Grey Wagtail ( 灰鶺鴒 )

Day 2/3 – Dasyueshan (鞍马山)
Dashuishan National Forest Recreational Area is in Hopin township, Taichung County and is accessible through Dashuishan forest road. There are numerous layers of mountain and dense forests. The area ranges from 1000 to 2996 meters above sea level and covers 3963 hectares. The climate is humid and cool with 12℃ as annual average temperature. This is the 1st mountain we visit in Taiwan, after finish the whole trip report you can know how many mountain we focus this trip, we reach there late afternoon, it about two~three hours for us to shooting ( Taiwan after 6:00pm will be getting dark when early winter time )
I’ll said this is quite a promising place, if we go to right season, it will be more birds for, at the night we check in resort (奇沐山莊).

White Browed Bush Robin ( 白眉林鴝) – Endemic Subspecies

White Whiskered/Taiwan Laughingthrush ( 台灣噪眉 ) – Endemic Species

Mikado Pheasant ( 黑長尾雉 ) – Endemic Species

Swinhoe’s Pheasant ( 藍腹鷴 ) – Endemic Species

Collared Bush Robin ( 栗背林鴝 ) – Endemic Species

Black-throated Tit ( 紅頭山雀 )

Some nature photograph from Dasyueshan (鞍马山) while the bird not coming.( This two shots is from my HTC handphone )

Day 4 (AM) – Hehuan Mountain (合歡山)
Mountain Hehuan (Hehuan Mountain) is located between Ren-ai Township in central Taiwan’s Nantou County and Hsioulin Township in eastern Taiwan’s Hualien County. The mountain reaches an elevation of 3,416 meters, also where the people of Taiwan go in the winter to see the snow. We reach Hehuan Mountain at day 4 of night, it was very cold, the temperature is about 5℃, we check-in Hostel Songxue (松雪樓), it not cheap, it is the most expensive Hostel in Hehuan Mountain but the room is very nice and deluxe. We spent in morning section at HeHuan Mountain, the target is to get the Alpine Accentor, after move to SunlinkSea

Alpine Accentor ( 岩鷚 ) – Endemic Species

Winter Wren ( 鷦鷯 ) – Endemic Species

Taiwan Firecrest ( 火冠戴菊鳥 ) – Endemic Species

Vinaceous Rosefinch ( 酒紅朱雀 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Coal Tit ( 煤山雀 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Some nature photograph from Hehuan Mountain (合歡山) which just outside from our Hostel Songxue (松雪樓)

Day 4 (PM)- SunlinkSea (杉林溪)
The SunlinkSea located at the Nantou, area approximately is 17 kilometers, the altitude above sea level approximately is 1600 meters, the occupying land area approximately is 40 hectares, seem like this place is surrounding by rivulet.

Little Forktail ( 小剪尾 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Plumbeous Water Redstart ( 鉛色水鴝 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Steere’s Liocichla ( 黃胸藪眉 ) – Endemic Species

Day 5, 6 & 7 – Alishan ( 阿里山 / 塔塔加 / 玉山 )
Alishan is well known for its sunrises, and on a suitable morning one can observe the sun come up on a sea of clouds, in the area between Alishan and Yushan (玉山). Which is formed by Dawu Mountain (北大武山) range, Jian Mountain (小劍山)….etc. 18 large mountains, stretching from Nantou to Jiayi in two counties. The highest peak is 2663 meters above sea level, it will be very cold at night below 5℃. We do look for owl at night, we manage to see and some mammal but the temperature is too cold for us, have to give up photograph it, even we also have the problem to hold our tripod and lens, that time the temperature is about 2℃+-.

Streak Throated Fulvetta ( 灰頭花翼 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Taiwan Barwing ( 紋翼畫眉 ) – Endemic Species

Eurasian Nutcracker ( 星鴉 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Black-throated Tit ( 紅頭山雀 )

Collared Bush Robin ( 栗背林鴝 ) – Endemic Species

Grey Cheeked Fulvetta ( 繡眼畫眉 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Taiwan Hill Partridge ( 台灣山鷓鴣 ) – Endemic Species

Chinese Bomboo Partridge ( 竹雞 ) – Endemic Subspecies

This is one of the Monkey in Taiwan I manage to photograph, they will come very near you, some of them are jump up to our Car and asking for food…..

Macacus Monkeys (台灣猕猴 )

Romantic name, heard if you are taken the photo with your love one, both of you will be love forever, if friend, the friendship will be forever

Husband & Wife tree (夫妻神木 )

Some nature photograph from Alishan ( 阿里山 / 塔塔加 / 玉山 )

Day 8 (AM) – Yilan Park (宜蘭植物園)
Start at early morning from Hotel before toward to destination, we stop and the road side for our breakfast, Taiwan morning breakfast is one of my favor. When reach at the Park, too bad the weather is cloudy and raining … since we already here just setup our gear and wear the raincoat and start photograph ….. the rain stop after few hours when the SBS Babbler show up.

Breakfast at on the way to Yilan Park, this kind of shop is very common and popular in Taiwan

Maroon Oriole ( 朱鸝 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Crested Goshawk ( 鳳頭蒼鷹 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Streak Breasted Scimitar Babbler ( 小彎嘴 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Yellow Browed Warbler ( 黃眉柳鶯 )

Before move to next location… take some regional snack
Ice Cream/Peanut Crepes ( 冰淇淋花生捲)

Day 8 (PM) – Chiayi Wetland 鰲鼓溼地
This is the bigger wetland in Taiwan, located at Chiayi, the total area approximately had 1500 hectares, the wetland scope also includes the sandbar, the bog, the wind-break forest and paddy field, every year the BF Spoonbill will be visit here and other migrate bird as well.

Black-faced Spoonbill ( 黑面琵鷺 )

Northern Lapwing ( 小辮鴴 )

Mallard Duck ( 綠頭鴨 )

Tufted Duck (鳳頭潛鴨)

Green wing Teal ( 小水鴨 )

Buff Bellied Pipit ( 黃腹鷚 )

When come to night, we go for night market in Taipei Town to look for regional food at Lehua Night Market ( 樂華夜市 )

Stinky Tofu (臭豆腐) ….

Taiwan Hot Dog (大腸包小腸), Is small sausage wrapped in big sausage. A Taiwanese snack, common in night market

Tianbula – (甜不辣)

Taiwan Xishi (台灣檳榔西施)

Day 9 – Taipei Botanic Garden ( 台北植物園 )
It is located in the Taipei City and occupies about 8 hectares. More than 2000 species have been collected and displayed here, in addition to the plentiful living plants, two old buildings in the garden have been assigned to be the cultural heritage by the government. Our target bird here is T.Barbet.

Taiwan Barbet ( 台灣擬啄木 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Light Vented Bulbul – 白頭翁 – Endemic Subspecies

Japanese White Eye ( 綠繡眼 )

Malaysian Night Heron ( 黑冠麻鷺 ), I cannot get this shots in Malaysia, so only able to photograph in Taiwan

Common Moorhen ( 紅冠水雞 )

Brown Shrike ( 紅尾伯勞 ) It more colorful from Malaysia since is winter time

Gray Treepie ( 樹鵲 ) – Endemic Subspecies

Taiwan Squirrel ( 松鼠 )

This is the last night in Taiwan, so we go again to night market name Raohe Street Night Market ( 饒河夜市 )
I will said, I love Taiwan food

Day 10 – End of our journey

Situated just west to the Wallacean Line, the island of Bali is geographically diverse and very rich in bird life with 346 species of birds recorded on the island. Bali shares many very similar species of birds with it’s neighboring bigger island of Java. However it’s relatively smaller size (5,315 sq km) and the ease of travels to and within Bali makes it an even more lucrative and convenient location for bird photography than Java.

There is only one endemic species of bird in Bali, the Bali Myna. This is one of the most critically endangered birds in the world. As such the chances of seeing a naturally wild bird is very small. However, one stand quite a good chance of getting good photographs of captive-breed released birds in a number of spots within Bali Barat National Park.

Celu Sewage Lagoons

Located next to the northern entrance to Nusa Dua (close to Club Med Bali), Celu Sewage Ponds is a good starting point for most who come to Bali for bird photography. The lagoons offer a large number of water birds including Javan Pond Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Purple Heron, Little Pied Cormorant, and Sunda Teal. Early morning (just at dawn) is the best time to capture the large number of flying egrets and cormorants as they hunt for fish within the eastern most of the ponds

Though a very shy bird that does not allow you to approach close, Cerulean Kingfishers are quite common in Celu. Hence for most, Celu would probably be the best place to see and shoot this species. The mangroves bordering the western end of Celu are good for migrant waders such as Grey-tailed Tattler, Grey Plover and Curlews.

Ubud and the Paddy Fields

Around Ubud are a number of accessible paddy fields. The best time to find birds in the paddy fields is when the grains are still green and soft. Species include Javan Kingfisher, Bar-winged Prinia, Zitting and Golden-headed Cisticolas, Rainbow, Chestnut-headed and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Javan Munia, and possibly even the Java Sparrow.

Pura Luhur Batukau (or Pura Luhur Batukaru)

Located about 23 km north of Tabanan at the southern slopes of Mount Batukau, Pura Luhur Batukau is the holiest temple in the region. As the temple just fringes the forest, a large number of forest species could also be seen here. The temple and the main road leading to the temple is also the best place to see and photograph the White-crowned Forktail.

Getting to the temple can be quite a challenge as it is remote and signage to the temple is poor. It is best to ask the locals for directions as you travel the minor roads that lead to the temple.

Bedugul

Bedugul is a mountain retreat popular with local tourists, and many come here to visit Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, a temple at the edge of Lake Bratan. There are many guesthouses in the area, many of them surrounding the lake, and the gardens of these guesthouses offer opportunities for bird photography. Bedugul is also where the Bali Botanic Garden is located (see below). The Bali Handara Golf Course north of Bedugul has also been recommended as a place for thrushes and the Sunda Bush-warbler.

Bali Botanic Garden

The Bali Botanic Garden is quite a difficult place for bird photography as the trees are very tall and mature, and the under story is rather dark . The Garden is also rather large and hilly. It is however a good place to find for thrushes, including the Javan Whistling Thrush. There are many Bottlebrush plants (Callistemon sp.) that line the road just beyond the garden entrance and near the VIP Guesthouse. Indonesian Honeyeaters are common amongst these bushes as they feed of the nectar of the Bottlebrush flower. They readily respond to a recorded playback of their call. Pied Bushchats are also quite common in the Botanic Garden, especially around the entrance.

Munduk

Another mountain retreat, Munduk is a place where people come for a day but stay for a week. There are many guesthouses and resorts perched on the hill slopes and the gardens of these offer much opportunities for bird photography. Common garden species include Bar-winged Prinia, Oriental White-eyes, Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, and Javan Munia,

Bunut Bolong

Bunut Bolong or Fig-tree Hole, along the Pekutatan – Pupuan Road, is where the road passes through the bole of an immensely large fig tree. This location has been mentioned as a good place to find hornbills, barbets, mynas and pigeons, especially when the tree is fruiting.

Bali Barat National Park

Located on the far western part of the island, Bali Barat National Park is the very last wild stronghold for the Bali Myna. Since 2006, the national park has a program to reintroduce captive-breed birds back to the wild. Reintroduced birds are best seen near artificial breeding boxes, and these can be found in Mimpi Menjangan Resort and Waka Shorea Resort, within the national park. There are also a large number of breeding boxes at Teluk Brumbun, but you would require a national park permit, a ranger guide and a boat to get you there, and this can work out to be quite expensive unless the cost is being shared out with increased numbers.

A cheaper way to see the Bali Starling is within in Mimpi Menjangan Resort, however you will need to be a day guest of the resort to gain limited entry (best method is to purchase rather expensive refreshments at the Bali Tower, which is a great place to spot canopy birds). Alternatively you can choose to be a staying guest at the resort (cheapest is the Mangrove Gazebo at about USD60 per night) to get unlimited access within the compounds of the resort. The resort is one of the best places to find and photograph the Green Junglefowl, the Black-winged Starling, and for the mammal photographers, the Timorese and Barking Deers. Spotted Kestrel can be found in the resort but very difficult to photograph.

Hiring a ranger guide has advantages too, as he is able to bring you to sites to find the Rufous-backed Kingfisher, Banded Pitta, Small Minivet, White-shouldered Triller, Island Collared Dove, Racket-tailed Treepie, Grey-rumped Treeswift, Black-winged Flycatcher Shrike, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Black Eagle and Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker. The Lemon-bellied White-eyes and Streaked Weavers are also common at Teluk Brumbun. Some of these species mentioned above are more readily seen during the dry season (July to September).

Gilimanuk

As accommodation options within the National Park are limited and expensive, a cheaper alternative would be to stay in the many cheap guesthouses in Gilimanuk. The grasslands adjacent to the beach are good for Striated Grassbirds and Long-tailed Shrikes. The National Park Headquarters at Cekik also offers reasonably priced accommodations, and the gardens within the Park HQ have Lineated Barbets, Coppersmith Barbets, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon and Green Imperial Pigeon. There is also a large fig tree at the Military Monument just south of the National Park HQ, and when this tree is fruiting, many Bulbuls, Barbets and Pigeons will be seen. One last place recommended for bird watching is Gimimanuk Bay, but I did not have the opportunity to visit this location.

Beyond Bali

The eastern coast of Java and the western coast of Bali is only about 2 km apart, and frequent ferry connections between Gilimanuk and Ketapang (Java) makes a very viable option to visiting the eastern parks of Java. Baluran National Park is one of the best places in Indonesia for wildlife photography, and is one of the most accessible places on Java to find the . Unfortunately I have not visited Baluran National Park myself and hence unable to comment more on this location.

Travel Notes

As Bali sees a large number of visitors, the tourism infrastructure of Bali is very good. There are numerous budget car rental companies throughout Kuta, and competition results in very cheap and negotiable car rentals rates. Legally one requires an International Driver’s License to drive in Bali. Although the roads of Kuta are very small and congested, most roads throughout the island are quite well maintained. Traffic can be heavy on the major roads and urban regions, but traffic thins out significantly in the more rural parts of the island. Accommodation options are many (except for Bali Barat National Park) and cater to all budgets.

Article complied by Dr Eric Tan
Mountains & Beyond © February 2010
Sohnjoo@gmail.com

Choo, Teik Ju

Brief Introduction about Guangdong

Located in subtropical region, famous for its mild winter, and hot and rainy summer. Guangdong is a place of plenty where her weather enables lots of life – plant and animals. In the last decade, after former Chinese leader Deng Xiaoping started the economic reform in 1979, Pearl River Delta was designated Special Economic Zone, coastal cities here had undergone massive industrialization in the scale that human kind ever seen. As a result, most of the natural interests, e.g. forest, river, hills and grassland had been replaced with factories. Blue sky is never common here anymore as the sky is heavily polluted. Any kind of birds, even the most common of all birds – Eurasian Tree Sparrow, is rare in the cities. Thus, to find bird in Guangdong, you have to go far away from the city.

Map of Guangdong

guangdong_map

Birding Locations

Here are the birding locations that I had been to.

• Shenzhen Coastal Ecological Park

Also known as Shenzhen Mangrove Park. This is a huge park located within Shenzhen City, opposite Hong Kong. This park is famous for migratory birds like Spoonbill during winter season. You may also find resident common birds here, which are tame and easy to shoot in close distance due to their familiarity to human presence, i.e. Red-whiskered Bulbul, Light-vented Bulbul, Black-collared Starling, White Wagtail, waders, with the exception of skittish Pied Kingfisher. Ideal place for new birders or birders with short focal lens.

black-collared-starling

light-vented-bulbul

red-whiskered-bulbul

(Picture from Kowloon Park, Hong Kong)

• Liuxihe National Forest Park

Located in Conghua County, Guangzhou. Most of the forest area here is primary forest at the altitude between 500m ~ 900m. This place is also known as the oxygen bar of Guangdong due to unpolluted air and highest negative ion recorded in Guangdong Province. However, the only setback is most of the birding spots are steep and forested. Physical agility and stamina are highly demanded. Unlike Shenzhen Coastal Ecological Park, birds here are skittish and shy (as I never find any tame birds here). Chestnut Bulbul and Grey-cheeked Fulvetta are fairly common here but hard to get close. Silver Pheasant is the star bird here.

yellow-cheeked-tit

hill-prinia

himalayan-treepie

• Huidong

Most of the flat land here is rice field, low land birds are common scene. Huidong has both hills and coast, thus, you may find both low land birds and water birds. Scaly-breasted Munia, Long-tailed Shrike (inclusive dark morph), Black Drongo, Sooty-headed Bulbul are common here along with Little-ringed Plover, Pacific Reef Egret and Little Grebe. I would say, this is this quiet coastal town is the town of Long-tailed Shrike, this bird is relatively common here.

sooty-headed-bulbul

long-tailed-shrike

• Dongguan

Heavily industrialized county but with some ‘unprotected’ bush and farmland. City birds can still be found here, i.e. Plain Prinia, Scaly-breasted Munia, Oriental Magpie Robin and Siberian Stonechat (Winter)

plain-prinia

siberian-stonechat

Here is the consolidated table of birds by locations:

Location	County	Species
Liuxihe National Forest Park	Conghua	Yellow-cheeked Tit, Chestnut Bulbul, Grey-chined Minivet, Scarlet Minivet, Asian Drongo Cuckoo, Grey Treepie, Slaty-backed Forktail, Silver Pheasant, Partridge, Blue-winged Leafbird, Great Tit, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Common Kingfisher, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Blue Magpie, Scaly-breasted Munia, Hill Prinia, Hwamei, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler
Shenzhen Coastal Ecological Park	Shenzhen	Great Tit, Oriental White-eye, White Wagtail, Light-vented Bulbul, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Pied Kingfisher, Chinese Pond Heron, Great Egret, Little Egret, Spoonbill (Winter), Asian Koel, Long-tailed Shrike, Black-collared Starling, Red-collared Dove, Red-billed Leiothrix, Masked Laughingthrush
Huidong	Huizhou	Long-tailed Shrike (inclusive dark morph), Chinese Pond Heron, Pacific Reef Egret, Black Drongo, Little Ringed Plover, Light-vented Bulbul, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Red-whiskered Bulbul, White Wagtail, White-throated Kingfisher, Little Grebe
Dongguan	Dongguan	Plain Prinia, Siberian Stonechat (Winter), Scaly-breasted Munia, Long-tailed Shrike, Grey-backed Thrush (Winter)

Traffic and Accommodations

Southern China is a convenience place to travel and live. I am cheap, so, for all the locations that I had been, I traveled by public bus, sitting together with locals.

Shenzhen Coastal Ecological Park (深圳红树林)

As it is located within the proximity of city center, the park can be assessable by cab, practically around SGD4, or by public bus, from the city depending on your pickup locations.

Liuxihe National Forest Park (流溪河国家森林公园)

The capital of Guangdong Province is Guangzhou, most of the destinations in Guangdong can be accessed from here. To go to Liuxihe National Forest Park:

Website: http://www.lxhpark.cn/

Accommodation: Youth Hostel (青年山庄), Reservation: +86-13380010603 (Mandarin only, preferably Cantonese), Room rate: RMB 250

[No internet connection, poor TV reception (no English channel), no room dining, no laundry service, no drinks, excellent night time: can hear stream, quiet and clear night sky, and if you are lucky, you can see foxes!]

Huidong (惠东)

This is an undeveloped place which I do not recommend as there is no direct bus service to this area. My only reason to go there is Sooty-headed Bulbul. If you are driving, here is the driving direction:

huidong

(Exit at Renshan稔山, drive for another 20km before you reach the hotel)

Accommodation: Sheraton Huizhou Beach Resort

[The hotel has free shuttle bus from Daya Bay, Hizhou County]

Birding Seasons

Like Singapore and Malaysia, most of the birds here are residence except winter visitors. It is said that it is easier to find birds in winter as leaf is less and food are rare. No typhoon in winter is a plus. Most of the bird species here overlap with those of S.E.A.

Do and Don’t

• Do speak local dialects if you can as locals get much friendlier. Cantonese is common but not always the case. Locals in Huidong and other rural areas speak Hakka.
• Do share with locals that you are coming for bird photography, they share their experience with you too.
• Do prepare your camera and lens accessories before you come into China as these are hard to find in China. There is lots of fake battery here too.
• Don’t tell them your lens price to locals, you are asking for trouble.
• Don’t shoot bird at anywhere outside garden and national park as security is bad.
• Don’t simply shoot, understand your location first as picturing military establishment is a serious offence.
• Don’t have to wear like locals to look local as they wear smarter than us!

Conservation Status in General

Maybe I have not been to many places in Guangdong, but I could tell that most of the natural/primitive forests in Guangdong have perished due to development and illegal/unplanned agricultural needs. Most of the locals do not think there is a great need to protect wildlife as they think (1) wildlife is still abandon, (2) it is a privilege to consume wildlife. Local governments do not enforce or promote the importance of nature conservation in this area, economic development is always at the top of the agenda even in national parks. As a result, most of the national parks in Guangdong are commercialized, meat of wild boar, deer and pheasant are on the menu in restaurants within national park.

Pollution is another aspect of concern – littering and development works within national parks. There are too many roads and vehicles in national parks as well.

Poaching, littering and collection of wild plants are common in national park. One of the officers from Guangzhou Forestry Department who responsible for illegal activities in National Park, that I met recently, is also an animal poacher. You may imagine how severe the situation is.

Native plant is gradually replaced by foreign plant, e.g. Eucalyptus, to produce raw material for paper production. It is a sad scene as such tree species does not benefit local wildlife and it does not act as water catchment agent like most broad leaf species. Perhaps, human should understand that the term ‘green’ is not easy, as ‘green’ has to be balanced to sustain the supply chain and ecosystem for wildlife to thrive.

In summary, nature in Guangdong is under tremendous amount of stress due to low appreciation of their existence and massive development. Let’s pray for their survival.

Other Places of Interest

Forest/highland Birds

Nankunshan Nature Reserve (南昆山自然保护区)

Website: http://www.gdnks.com/cn/default.asp

Forest/highland Birds

Nanling National Forest Park (南岭国家森林公园) at Shaoguan (韶关)

Water Birds

Nanaodao Nature Reserve (南澳岛自然保护区)

Website: http://www.gdf.gov.cn/news/news.jsp?pname=%E8%87%AA%E7%84%B6%E4%BF%9D%E6%8A%A4%E5%8C%BA&id=9173

Useful Links

Reality of wildlife in Guangdong

http://www.theecologist.org/pages/archive_detail.asp?content_id=1012

Guangzhou Map

http://guangzhou.edushi.com/

Being the 3rd most populous city of Australia with a whole lot of family-oriented theme parks and great beaches, Brisbane (including the Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast) is a popular tourist destination, and may not seem to fit as a destination for birding. Yet Brisbane and its surrounds do offer one of the best birding in Australia. Brisbane sits adjacent to the eastern coast and is at the base of the Great Dividing Range. As such, Brisbane has one of the largest diversity of natural habitats, from coastal mangroves to rainforests, which offers a large diversity of bird life. This article is presented in terms of habitats that can be found in and around Brisbane.

Urban/Suburban Parks

Urban and suburban parks may seem to be the least likely place to find exciting bird life, but many of the parks around Brisbane is home to a surprising number of interesting birds.

Sherwood Forest Park

An urban park adjacent to the Brisbane River with two small lakes separated by a causeway that is very rich with birdlife and a few surprising finds. The most common birds in this park would be the Sacred Ibises, Pacific Black Ducks, Wood Ducks, Hardheads, Magpie Geese, Purple Swamphen, Eurasian Coot, etc., but less common birds such as White-breasted Woodswallows, Dollarbirds, Welcome Swallows, Buff-banded Rails are often found here too. The tall Eucalyptus Trees lining the edge of the Brisbane River bank is home to the Channel-billed Cuckoo, and these normally high roosting birds do come down to the lower nearby fig trees to feed. Rarities such as the Little Bittern and the Black Bittern have been recorded in here before.

Channel-billed, Sherwood Forest Park

Northlakes Park

This is a well manicured Suburban park with a lake surrounded by reeds is home to a large number of common birds but also offer the chance to see less common species. Common are the usual waterfowls such as the Purple Swamphen, Eurasian Coot, Black Swan, and ducks. In addition, the Little Friarbird and Tawny Grassbird could be gotten quite easily. Less common species such as the Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo and Pale-headed Rosella is a chance, and I did spot a single Latham (Japanese) Snipe amongst the reeds. There is a small possibility of a crake or rail here. Port of Brisbane (Fisherman Island) Visitor Centre The visitor’s centre overlooks a lake that is good for the common waterfowls, and for the Chestnut Teal. Mangrove Honeyeaters are consistently found at the Paperbark (Melaleuca) Trees around the lake.

Roma Street Parkland

Right in the middle of the city, this park can throw quite a few surprises. Buff-banded Rails and Bush Stone-curlews have been spotted there.

Coastal Mangroves

Wynnum Mangrove Boardwalk

This boardwalk goes into the heart of a coastal mangrove, and is good for the White-throated Treecreeper, and Collared Kingfisher. Mangrove Gerygone are also common here but they tend to stay high up on the canopy. Lighting is a challenge on the boardwalk. The eucalyptus trees surround the mangrove boardwalk is good for Yellow-faced Honeyeater and the Pale-headed Rosella. Other common species include the Leaden Flycatcher, Grey Shrike-thrush, and Rufous Whistler. The mangrove trees before the boardwalk is a chance for the Mangrove Honeyeater. There is a wader roost (Lytton Wader Roost) with a hide at the end of the path beyond the boardwalk.

White-throated Treecreeper, Wynnum Mangrove Boardwalk

Deception Bay

The mangrove trees here are shorter than at Wynnum and hence a better chance of an eye-level shot of the Mangrove Gerygone and Mangrove Honeyeater.

Lota Creek

Like Deception Bay, the mangrove trees here are shorter than at Wynnum and hence a better chance of an eye-level shot of the Mangrove Gerygone.

Coastal Flats

Brisbane is haven for wader lovers, and offers one of the best opportunities for getting really close to these otherwise very skittish birds

Toorbul Wader Roost

About 60km north of Brisbane, Toorbul is one of the best sites for photographing waders as you can get really close to them on the high tide. The common waders include the Eastern Curlew, Bar-tailed Godwit, Great Knot, Red Knot, Terek Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper, Red-necked Stint. Caspian Tern, Gull-billed Tern and Crested Tern are also common here. In winter, this is the best place to find the Double Banded Plover.

Great Knot, Toorbul Wader Roost

Grey Plover, Toorbul Wader Roost

Bribie Island

Bribie Island has quite a number of habitats for birds but Kakadu Beach is famous for being a good wader roost. Buckley’s Hole is good for the usual waterfowls too.

Manly Wader Roost

A good site for roosting waders at high tide but access into this site has been restricted for a number of years now and a locked gate and fence surrounds the entry point. Unorthodox entry could be achieved through a hole in the fence. The site is very exposed so getting close to the waders is very difficult.

Port of Brisbane (Fisherman Island) Wader Roost

Another fenced and locked location but the entry key could be obtained from the Port of Brisbane (Fisherman Island) Visitor Centre. Like Manly Wader Roost, the site is very exposed and hence a challenge in getting close to the waders.

Open Country

Minnippi Parklands

A large park with a big lake surrounded by grassland and scattered trees. Very good for the grassland birds like Tawny Grassbird, Red-backed Fairywren, Superb Fairywren, Golden-headed Cisticola, Chestnut-breasted Mannikin, etc.

Red-backed fairywren, Minnippi Parklands

Eucalyptus Forests and Open Forests

Most of the forests around Brisbane are open Eucalyptus Forests. Though difficult for bird photography as the birds are usually way up high in the canopy, light is often adequate in such forests, and birds can sometimes be attracted lower down by squeaking or playback with a recorded bird-call.

Lake Samsonvale – Gold Scrub Lane

The open forest and bush land here is productive for bush birds (such as Striped Honeyeater and Scarlet Honeyeater) and raptors. This place is famed to birdwatchers for quails and button-quails but the chance of a photograph of these birds is slim unless lots of time has been invested here.

Brown Thornbill, Jolly’s Lookout

J.C. Slaughter Falls, Mt Coottha

This is one of the most reliable location for the Powerful Owl, but more likely to be seen during its nesting period (May – Aug). White-throated Nightjars are also reliably seen here at dusk. Brisbane Forest Park – Jollys Lookout, Wivenhoe Lookout & Boombana Park Eucalyptus forest birds such as the Brown Thornbill, Eastern Yellow Robin, Spangled Drongo could be found here.

Mt Nebo Village

This is probably the best place to find and photograph the Bell Miner. The very pleasantly melodious birds could be photographed right from the roadside, but be very careful of on-coming traffic as the road is narrow.

Bell Miner, Mt Nebo Village

Gold Creek Dam

The best birding is below the dam and on the south side of the lake (almost Noisy Miner free). White-eared Monarchs are often recorded here (try around the dam spillway). Bell Miners, Glossy Black-Cockatoo and Brush Cuckoo are possible, while White-throated Nightjars, Wonga Pigeons and Crested Shrike Tits have been seen here.

Gap Creek Reserve

Gap Creek Reserve is good for woodland birds and is 100% reliable for Bellbirds (but it is much harder to photograph them here then at Mt Nebo Village). Painted Button Quails and Spotted Quail-Thrush have been seen here. The trails are frequented by mountain bikers so take care here.

Rainforest

This is the most challenging but most rewarding habitat for bird photography around Brisbane. A number of key bird species are rainforest species and hence can only be found in the few pockets of rainforest around Brisbane.

Maiala, Mt Glorious

Maiala is one of the best patches of accessible highland rain forest close to Brisbane. The car park and picnic area provides good chance of Eastern Spinebill, Satin Bowerbird, Eastern Yellow Robin, Brown Cuckoo-dove, White-browed Scubwren, Yellow-throated Scrubwren, and even possibility of Wonga Pigeon and Topknot Pigeon. There is loop track just after the parking lot which is good for the typical rainforest species such as the Brown Gerygone, Logrunner, Eastern Whipbird, Ground-thrushs, Green Catbird, Noisy Pitta and Wompoo Pigeon (although most of these are much easier to hear than see). From the Maiala Picnic Area continuing onwards on Mt Glorious Road towards Lake Wivenhoe for about 10 km is a turnoff to an unsealed track on the right. This turn-off is also sign posted as “Maiala”, and after 100 metres is a locked gate across the track preventing vehicular access. This track is good for Pale Yellow Robin, Eastern Yellow Robin, Rufous Fantail, and Golden Whistler.

Eastern Yellow Robin, Maiala

Further Afar from Greater Brisbane

Lamington National Park and O’Reilly’s

O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat in Lamington National Park is probably the best place to find and photograph the typical rainforest species. The birds here have gotten use to the presence of people and hence are more friendly and approachable. Still, photography in the rainforest is always challenging, and finding the birds still a matter of luck.

Red-browed Firetail, O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat

The car park at O’Reilly’s is excellent for species such as the Topknot Pigeon, Wonga Pigeon, White-headed Pigeon, Satin Bowerbird (the bowers of the Satin Bowerbird is quite often found in the bush fringing the car park), Lewin’s Honeyeater, Eastern Spinebill, White-browed Scrubwren, and Red-browed Firetail. There is a bird-feeding area between the main car park and the resort reception, and this is great for Crimson Rosella, and Australian King Parrots. Regent Bowerbird and possibly the Green Catbird can be seen on the tree just outside the dining area. The bushes around the gas tanks are good for Yellow-throated Scrubwrens, Brown Gerygone, Brown Thornbill and the occasional Eastern Whipbird. Common rainforest species such as Logrunner, Eastern Whipbird, Golden Whistler, Rufous Fantail, Black-faced Monarch, and Eastern Yellow Robin are a good chance, while shyer or less common rainforest species such as Noisy Pitta, Bassian and Russet-tailed Thrushes, Paradise Riflebird, and even the Albert’s Lyrebird is a possibility. The best trail for finding the rainforest birds is the Python Rock Trail. Along the main road to O’Reilly’s are patches of Eucalyptus forest which is good for the Red-browed Treecreeper.

http://www.oreillys.com.au/

Tweed Valley, NSW

South to the Gold Coast and just into the New South Wales is the Tweed Valley and this offers a number of good birding locations of differing habitats. Hastings Point is a good place to look for the Wandering Tattler (amongst the tidal rocks), and terns such as the Little, Common and Crested Terns. The beach at Kingscliff are good for the terns and nesting ospreys. Vintage Lakes is a great place to find the usual waterfowls but also for bush birds, such as the Striped Honeyeater, Brown Thornbill, Leaden Flycatcher, Restless Flycatcher, Rufous Whistler, etc. Terranora Broadwater (Birds Bay) is a coastal trail passing through sub-tropical rainforest and gives opportunity for a few surprises such as Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove, Emerald Dove, Fan-tailed Cuckoo, Tawny Frogmouth, Azure Kingfisher, Rose Robin, Eastern Yellow Robin, Rufous Whistler, White-eared Monarch, and Regent Bowerbird.

Wandering Tattler, Hastings Point

http://www.bigvolcano.com.au/custom/birdos/media/brochure/brochure.htm

Durikai State Forest, Stanthorpe & Sundown National Park

The birds found in the areas described here are unique to those west of the Great Dividing Range. Even though these locations are rather far from Brisbane (about 4 – 5 hours drive away) but it is still the closest best locations to find these uncommon birds. Durikai State Forest is about 45 km west of Warwick on Cunningham Highway. A small waterhole just off the (south side) highway and 6 km before Karara is an excellent place for Yellow-tufted Honeyeaters. In addition, Black-chinned, White-naped, White-throated, Brown-headed, and Yellow-faced Honeyeaters, and possibly Turquoise Parrots could be found here.

Yellow-tufted Honeyeater, Durikai State Forest

Stanthorpe is located about 170 km south west of Brisbane (2.5 – 3 hours drive) is one of the coolest places in the state of Queensland. The Stanthorpe Golf Course is a good place to look for parrots (feeding on the greens… what out for incoming golf balls), including the Eastern Rosella, Red-rumped Parrots, etc. 245 kilometres south-west of Brisbane (about 4 – 5 hours drive from Brisbane, 1 hour from Stanthorpe) on the Queensland – New South Wales border is Sundown National Park. The Broadwater camping area at the southern end of the park can be reached by conventional vehicle from Stanthorpe along 76km of bitumen road and 4km of good gravel road. Birds commonly found at Broadwater campsite include Speckled Warbler and White-winged Chough. Other key species found in the park include White-eared Honeyeaters, Diamond Firetail, White-browed Babblers and Turquoise Parrots. The best place to find these species is around the Ranger’s accommodation.

http://www.epa.qld.gov.au/projects/park/index.cgi?parkid=26

Rainbow Beach, Inskip Point and Fraser Island

Rainbow Beach is located approximately 265Km north of Brisbane. 9km north of Rainbow Beach is Inskip Point, the gateway to Fraser Island. Inskip Point is on the birding map because it is one of the most reliable locations for the Black-breasted Button-quail. However the chance of being able to photograph this species is almost close to zero. One is more likely to encounter the Mangrove Honeyeater, Scarlet Honeyeater, Little Shirke-thrush, Varied Triller, and Fairy Gerygone.

Eastern Spinebill, Rainbow Beach

The southern tip of Fraser Island lies just off Inskip Point and takes approximately 15 minutes by barge. Only 4WD can be brought onto Fraser Island, and a permit is needed. Listed as a World Heritage Area, Fraser Island is the biggest sand island in the world and yet provides a range of habitats (from sandy beaches to swamps and rainforests) and some 354 bird species have been recorded here.

http://www.epa.qld.gov.au/projects/park/index.cgi?parkid=1

http://www.fraserisland.net/fraserisland/wildlife/fraser-birds.cfm

Golden Whistler, Maiala

Resources

Internet

1. Birds Queensland – Very informative, especially for its gazetteer, which describes each location in detail.

http://www.birdsqueensland.org.au/gazetteer-seq.php

2. Bird Places of Brisbane – an excellent downloadable PDF brochure

http://www.birdsqueensland.org.au/downloads/birdplaces.pdf

3. Birding Southern Queensland (Tom Tarrant’s Site)

http://www.aviceda.org/

4. Birds Australia Southern Queensland

http://www.basq.org.au/

Website of MountainMan

http://www.mountainsbeyond.org

Email sohnjoo@gmail.com
___________________above article, photographs contributed and copyright of MountainMan

Author: MountainMan aka Dr Eric Tan

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of MountainMan

Where is the Kimberley?

99.9% of people would have never heard before of the Kimberley. Located in the north-western most part of Australia, it is one of the most remote parts of the continent. Ironically, the Kimberley is geographically nearer to Singapore than to most of the capital cities of Australia. It is about 2,600 km from Singapore to Broome, but more than 4000 km from Sydney to Broome. Despite it’s proximity to Asia getting to the Kimberley would seem illogical, as one must fly either to Perth (about 2200 km south) or to Darwin (about 2000 km east) before being able to catch a connecting flight to this region.

The Kimberley is huge! At 423,517 square kilometres (163,521 sq mi), this is one sixth the size of Western Australia. or about three times the size of England or comparable to the size of California. This large area is so sparsely populated with an estimated total population of 38,000. There is only one sealed trunk road connecting the western end (Broome) to the eastern end (Kununnura), and the distance between these two towns is in excess of 1000 km!. Hence don’t expect to be able to cover the region in a short few days. The capital town of the Kimberley is Broome, which is on the western end of the region. The other towns of the West Kimberley are Derby (220 km East of Broome), and Fitzroy Crossing (396 km East of Broome). The main town in East Kimberley is Kununurra, and Wyndham (100 km West of Kununurra) is the other much smaller town of the East Kimberley. The small town of Halls Creek (358 km south of Kununurra) would be considered South Kimberley. The North Kimberley is the most remote part of the region with no major towns but only small settlements. Overland access to the north is extremely difficult, as the area is serve only by seasonally passable unsealed tracks.

Escarpment and gorges of the Kimberley

Geography and Climate

The Kimberley is a geographically diverse region. The habitats in the region include tropical rainforest to desert. Much of the region is open woodland and dominated by rugged ranges and escarpments. The West is mainly flat with large expense of tidal mudflats and savanna woodland. The East is well irrigated as the result of the damming of the Ord River for agriculture and hence there are many lakes and water channels in the region. The South being at the edge of the desert is very arid and is mainly of semi-arid savanna and spinifex grassland. The very inaccessible North is very rugged with lots of escarpments and this is where the rainforest is found too. The region enjoys three distinct seasons, the dry (May – Aug), the “build-up” (Sept – Dec), and the wet (Jan – Apr). During the ‘build-up’ and the wet, day-time temperatures are usually in the high 30s or 40s (degree Celsius mind you), and humidity in excess of 90%. Much of the Kimberley becomes inaccessible during the wet as roads are flooded out. The dry is the most comfortable time to visit as day-time temperatures are in the low 30s, but night temperatures can drop to as low as single digit. Most of the roads are open during the dry until the first rain falls. Another natural phenomenon to note about the region is the huge tidal difference. Derby can have a difference of 11 metres between high and low tides, which is the second highest tidal difference in the world.

Where to find birds in the Kimberley?

The Kimberley is one of the best birding regions of Australia, boasting of more than 360 species of birds. It is also one of the regions of Australia where twitchers regularly go to for the chance to see rare migrant birds. Ironically there are only two species of birds that is endemic to the region. Bird checklist of Kimberley Bird Species: http://www.homevalley.com.au/tours-and-activities/kimberley-bird-species.html

West Kimberley

Broome

Broome is one of the birding capitals of Australia. Roebuck Bay of Broome (and 80 Mile Beach of the northern Pilbara) is the main point of entry and exit for millions of wader birds that breed in Siberia that migrates annually to Australia for the Southern hemisphere summer. The best time to witness this spectacular massive number of waders is in September/October when the birds first arrive, or in March/April when the birds gather here again to fatten up before embarking on their long journey back north to Siberia. In addition to the migrating waders from Siberia, Broome is also the summer home for the many migrating Asiatic bird species, and itself boast of being one of the best places to see (and photograph) a large number of resident birds, especially the mangrove species and waterfowls.
Broome Bird Observatory (BBO), Roebuck Bay and Crab Creek Mangrove

Roebuck Bay Mudflats
Roebuck Bay boasts of millions of waders during the migrating season but these may be rather difficult to photograph. The coastal flats where the birds feed are very exposed and approaching the birds can be very challenging. The BBO, located on the shores of Roebuck Bay, is also surrounded by bush land rich with bird life. Accommodations and camping facilities are available at the BBO, and the staff also runs birding tours and courses for a fee. Parts of Roebuck Bay are lined by mangrove, and the best place in the bay to look for mangrove birds is Crab Creek. It is a good idea to wear a pair of rubber boots or dive booties when exploring Crab Creek due to the thick mud, and using a recorded bird-call playback could be useful for attracting the mangrove birds. Crab Creek Road, the access road to the BBO, Roebuck Bay and Crab Creek is an unsealed dry-season road.

Checklist of birds in the Broome and Roebuck region

BBO website: http://www.broomebirdobservatory.com/
Roebuck Plains/Roebuck Station
Here is probably the most reliable place in Australia to see (and photograph) the elusive Yellow Chat. There are two large fresh-water lakes in Roebuck Station, Taylor’s Lagoon and Lake Eda, both being home to a large number of waterfowls, bush birds, and raptors. Roebuck Plains is actually a working cattle station, and hence private property. You will need to get permission to enter this property, and you will need a 4WD to get about. Access is only during the dry, as the tracks become inaccessible during the wet. Roebuck Plains Station contact number: +61 8 9192 1751
Broome Town
The town itself is another great birding location. Town Mangrove (entry is near Matso’s Café and Brewery), Streeter’s Jetty, and Town Beach are some of the most accessible locations to look for mangrove bird species. The town Sewage Ponds is also a great bird watching place for fresh-water fowls, but the facility is fenced and entry prohibited, hence making opportunities for bird photography rather limited. Broome Port and Entrance Point is one of the best places to photograph Ospreys and White-bellied Sea-eagles. A large number of other seabirds are also seen there. The bush land adjacent to Entrance Point is also good for a number of bush species.
Nimalaica Swamp and Barred Creek
About 20 km north of Broome just off the Cape Leveque Road is Nimalaica Swamp. This is one of the best places to find the Mangrove Gerygone, Northern Fantail, and other freshwater fowls. It is also one of the best places to donate blood to the swarms of commando-trained mosquitoes, so go prepared. About 45 km north of Broome is Barred Creek and Cape Boileau. The mangroves lining Barred Creek is the most consistent place to find the Kimberley Flycatcher (Kimberley subspecies of the Lemon-bellied Flycatcher), and cape Boileau is excellent for spotting seabirds such as Brown Bobby, Great Frigatebird and Crested Terns. The access to Nimalaica Swamp, Barred Creek and Cape Boileau is unsealed, and a 4WD is highly recommended.
Dampier Peninsula

Pindan Cliffs of the Dampier Peninsula

Being one of the most picturesque places near Broome, the many quiet and secluded beaches, lagoons and sea coves on the Dampier Peninsula is also great for spotting seabirds (and whales). The main road of the peninsula (Cape Leveque Road) is unsealed and very corrugated for most of its length, and so are the access roads to the various beaches and coves, hence making a trip into this region more for the adventurous with a 4WD, and for those wanting to get great landscape photographic opportunities.

Between Broome and Derby

The 220 km trunk highway connecting Broome and Derby has a few good birding spots.
Taylor’s Lagoon
The unsealed access track to Taylor’s Lagoon (see Roebuck Plains above) is on the right hand side of this highway about 70 km from Broome. Heading towards Derby, on the right hand side of the highway 6.5 km beyond the turnoff to Taylor’s Lagoon is a forested area that is good for Black-tailed Treecreeper, Varied Sitella, and Pardalotes.
Willare Crossing
160 km from Broome the highway crosses the Fitzroy River at Willare. The forested area flanking the Ftizroy River is good for bush birds, especially for cuckoos.

Derby

Derby Jetty

Derby Sewage Ponds and Derby Wetlands
The fenced Derby Sewage Ponds is more for birdwatching as the restricted access into the facility prevents close proximity to the birds and hence limits photographic opportunities. The outflow from the sewage ponds however flows into a swampy area aptly known as the Derby Wetlands. This place is great for photographing waterfowls and waders. The surrounding bush is also great for bush birds.

Munkayarra Pool

20 km out of town (towards Broome) is a permanent freshwater pool that has lots of waterfowls. It is best to visit during the end of the dry and during the ‘build up’, as the large pool shrinks in size and concentrates the large number of birds there.

Fitzroy Crossing

Fitzroy Crossing is 258 km from Derby (396 km from Broome). Being away from the coast, the habitat is quite different from Broome and Derby. There are a number of sandstone and limestone escarpments near Fitzroy Crossing which would be the closest 2WD accessible location to look for escarpment birds like the White-quilled Rock-pigeon and Sandstone Shrike-thrush in the West Kimberley.

Fitzroy River Lodge and Caravan Park

The camping area of Fitzroy River Lodge and Caravan Park is located next to the Fitzroy River and is one of the best place to look for the Black-chinned Honeyeater. Its proximity to the river means that there are a large number of birds to be found there.

The Old Crossing

The banks at the old Fitzroy River crossing are good for photographing riverine birds. The Old Crossing is popular with the local people (swimming and fishing) hence visiting in the early morning before the crowds appear would be highly recommended. Despite the large number of local people swimming here, salt water crocodiles do live in the river here – you have been warned.

Geikie Gorge

Geikie Gorge

25 km north of Fitzroy Crossing is Geikie Gorge. Besides riverine and bush birds, the limestone escarpment here is good for the escarpment birds.

East Kimberley

Kununurra and Wyndham is one wettest (and hottest and most humid) parts of north-western Australia, and the lush grasslands here is home to 9 species of finches (including the Gouldian Finch and Yellow-rumped Mannikin). In addition, the numerous escarpments around these two East Kimberley towns is great for escarpment birds.

Kununurra

Lake Kununurra & Lily Creek Lagoon

This is an artificial lake located at the southern part of the town created by the damming of the Ord River. The lake edge is reed lined in many places and is excellent for photographing reed birds (such as Australian Reed-warbler, Golden-headed Cisticola, crakes and rails) and finches. The best places around the lake for bird photography are Kona Waters Caravan Park, Kimberleyland Caravan Park, and Celebrity Tree Park. Kimberleyland Caravan Park is especially good for photographing very friendly White-browed Crakes. Kona Waters Caravan Park is especially good for photographing the Buff-sided Robin.

Kununurra Golf Course

The trees around the golf course are good for a number of honeyeater and flycatcher species. Buff-sided Robins are also common here. There are a few ponds thick with reeds that are good for reed birds, finches, crakes and bitterns if you are lucky. Be careful of flying golf balls.

Mirima (Hidden Valley) National Park

This is escarpment territory and hence good for escarpment birds. The national park is easily accessible from town but an entry fee is charged. There are many escarpments all around the region that are free, but access to these might not be so easy.

Point Springs Nature Reserve

Waterhole in the East Kimberley

This is a small patch of Kimberley rainforest about 50 km north of Kununurra off Cave Springs Road. This is probably the most accessible rainforest patch in the Kimberley, and a number of rainforest bird species can be found here. The unsealed Cave Springs Road is at the end of Weber Plains Road, and the track to Point Springs Nature Reserve is a very rough 4WD track accessible only in the Dry season.

Wyndham

Wyndham, about 100 km North-west of Kununurra, is the other key birding location of the Kimberley as this is where the Gouldian Finch is most reliably seen and the nearby Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve is home to an incredible number of waterfowls and bushbirds.

Wyndam Town

Right in town is a small park with a small permanent pond known locally as the “Aboriginal Sculptures Park”. Towards the end of the Dry season, many species of birds (including the Gouldian Finch) would flock here to drink. The early morning is the best time to see the Gouldian Finch.

King River Road

Just out of town is the unsealed track that follows the King River towards Moochalabra Dam. The rocky hills on the left of this road is a known nesting area of the Gouldian Finch (March-June), and the springs (such as Sing’s Garden) just off the track is a good place to look for finches (including the Gouldian Finch and Yellow-rumped Mannikin) and honeyeaters (including the White-throated and Black-chinned Honeyeaters), especially towards the end of the Dry season (Aug – Sept).

Marlgu Billabong

This is the most accessible billabong of Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve, and a large number of waterfowl species congregate here all year round. The bush land around the billabong is also good for bush birds. Yellow Chats have been spotted in the plains North-east to the billabong. The access to Marlgu Billabong is unsealed and is closed during the Wet season. A 2WD could be used in the Dry season.

Between Kununurra and Wyndham

The Grotto

This is a spectacular waterhole about 30 km from Wyndham (70 km from Kununurra). In addition to the typical escarpment birds found here, this location is also good for finches. Go there early in the morning before the hoards of tourist arrive.

Creeks along the Highway

The Kununurra – Wyndham Highway passes a number of creeks, and any of these will be good for birds, especially finches and honeyeaters if there is water still present. Along Maggie Creek, a number of isolated pools of water remain right till the end of the Dry season.

South Kimberley

Halls Creek

Spinifex grassland around Halls Creek

About 350 km south of Kununurra and Wyndham is Halls Creek which is located near the edge of the Great Sandy Desert. The habitat here is semi-arid and hence the bird species found here reflect their tolerance to scarcity of water. Halls Creek is one of the best places to find the Grey-fronted Honeyeater in the Kimberley.

Duncan Road

There are a number of waterholes just off the unsealed Duncan Road and these attract a large number of birds especially during the Dry season. Grey-fronted, Black-chinned Honeyeaters, Pictorella Mannikin, Budgerigar, Northern Rosella, Masked and White-browed Woodswallows, Spinifex Pigeon, are some notable species here. Painted Finches can be found around the many rocky hills just off the Duncan Road. A good place to start is 5 km out of Halls Creek where on the left of the road is an abandoned cattle yard with a number of water filled troughs can be found.

Lake Gregory

This large natural lake, about 200 km south of Halls Creek, is on the northern edge of the Great Sandy Desert attracts a large number of waterfowls. However the lake is on Aboriginal Land (hence permits must be obtained for access), and the unsealed access tracks are very rough and confusing.

North Kimberley

This is one of the most picturesque but the most inaccessible area of the Kimberley, and most visitors either fly into or access from the sea via the northern coastline. The unsealed seasonal Gibb River Road provides the main overland access to this region and to the Central Kimberley. A 4WD is crucial for travels in this region.

Unsealed road of the Kimberley

Mitchell Falls

Besides being a place of extreme beauty, this is where both endemic Kimberley species could be found. The Kimberley Honeyeater and the Black Grasswren can be seen along the Mitchell Falls Walking Track, about 1 km from the campsite. The campsite is a good location to find the Partridge Pigeon (blaauwi subspecies), especially the tracks around the helicopter pad and the ranger station.

Track to Port Warrender

There is a small patch of rainforest just off the track to Port Warrender (small hill on the left just as one get’s the first view of the ocean on the Port Warrender Track). The vine thickets here is home to the rainforest birds, including Rainbow Pitta, Green-backed Gerygone, Emerald Dove, Little Shrike-thrush, Spangled Drongo, etc.

Central Kimberley

Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary

Owned by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy, Mornington protects a number of natural Australian habitats and hence a number of rare Australian wildlife. Notable bird species found there include the Purple-crowned Fairywren and the Gouldian Finch. The main campsite is beside a creek and the vegetation flanking the creek is home to the Purple-crowned Fairywren. Ask the very friendly staff and scientists of the Sanctuary on where to best find the Gouldian Finch.

check out their site here [1]

Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary

How to get to the Kimberley?

Both Broome and Kununurra are served by daily domestic flights from Perth and Darwin. Broome being the capital town has the most flights, being operated by Qantas, Virgin Blue, Air North, and Skywest Airlines. Kununurra has a daily flights connecting Perth and Darwin by Air North and Skywest Airlines. There is a direct flight to Derby from Perth by OzJet. Check the respective airline websites for details. Besides flying in, one can choose to travel into the Kimberley by the masochistic way. It’s a gruesome 2230 km overland drive from Perth to Broome, but you do indeed pass through some spectacularly scenic country along the way. Alternatively, the less gruesome drive of 834 km from Darwin to Kununurra might be the best way to get to the East Kimberley, as one will then have the opportunity to visit some excellent birding sites of the Top End (NT) enroute, such as Pine Creek, Katherine National Park, Victoria River, and Timber Creek.

Resources

Internet Resource

WA Birding by Frank O’Conner: http://birdingwa.iinet.net.au/ The most comprehensive birdwatcher’s resource to WA and the Kimberley. MUST READ.

Maps

Hema Maps: The Kimberley 1:1,000,000

Travel Guides

The Kimberley, An Adventurer’s Guide – Ron & Viv Moon, Moon Adventure Publications
Website of MountainMan

http://www.mountainsbeyond.org

Email sohnjoo@gmail.com
___________________above article, photographs contributed and copyright of MountainMan

Author: wilis

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs are copyright of Wilis

Introduction

Langkawi is located in the southern part of Andaman sea near the border between Thailand and Malaysia. Although well-known for its beach resorts, it was not exactly the sand and the sea that we’re after. The name Langkawi means Eagle Island in Malaysia, and that was our objective for this trip, the kites and eagles of Langkawi.

I believe there’s one place in the world where a particular species of bird is found in abundant and relatively easy to approach. In Langkawi, it is the place for the Brahminy Kites, and to a lesser extent, the white-bellied sea-eagles. Within 100 sq km of Kilim Nature Park there are reportedly 400-500 of kites and eagles.

Although the air ticket is rather pricey, the short distance from Singapore (1hr 15min) made it an ideal weekend getaway destination for our party of 3 (Remo, Jay and Wilis). Other than the kites, eagles and brown-winged kingfisher, Langkawi is not really a must visit place for birders, which explains the lack of trip reports to this place.

We flew Silk Air from Singapore, and the rest was free & easy with booking done through the internet or upon arrival.

Kilim jetty

Cost in Summary

- Air Ticket: Silk Air incl tax SGD$355/pax;

- Car rental: I believe it is one of the cheapest place in the world to rent a car and do not require prior booking as one can be hired direct at the airport. Nissan Spectra RM160 for 3 days (RM53/day);

- Accomodation: Langkasuka Beach Resort (RM200+), Berjaya Langkawi (almost free compliment of Remo);

- Boat rental: RM120-RM150 per hour. The boat can take 8 tourists, but suitable for max 4 photogs only. This is the most expensive part of the trip, which came to RM1,000 total damage.

In total, we spent approx $600 per pax all inclusive on this 3D/2N trip.
Remo and Jay with our Nissan Spectra rental car

Boats for rent at Kilim Jetty

Our itinerary

Day 1

a) Arrival by Silkair at 10am. Car rental at the airport and went to Gunung Raya to explore the place. At 880m, it is the highest ‘mountain’ in Langkawi. Commonly found birds on our visit: Dollarbirds (more than 50 birds), Great Hornbills, Oriental Pied Hornbills, Blue throated bee-eaters.

b) The leaf monkeys are also commonly seen.

c) Toll fee to enter the place: RM0.5 for a car.

d) In late afternoon we went for the Brahminy Kites near Tanjung Rhu Jetty. Surprise encounter on the way back was a Blue-winged Pitta by the roadside.

Day 2

Thanks to fellow NPX photographer who has been at the place days before us, there are actually 2 places to catch the boat. One is at Tanjung Rhu with mostly Brahminy Kites and a handful of WBSEs, and the other one is near Kilim Jetty. The WBSEs are more common found around the mangrove near Kilim Jetty.

3 hours boating in the morning at Kilim Jetty where we also encountered the Brown-winged Kingfishers , and 1 hour boating in the afternoon back at Tanjung Rhu.

Day 3

2 more hours were spent chasing Brahminy Kites at Kilim Jetty and we have had enough of kites for this trip.

Before our flight back to Singapore at 8.45pm, we spent the afternoon driving around the paddyfields and once again had a quick visit to Gunung Raya.

Lenses to Bring

For the eagle feeding sessions, useful range would be 300-400mm. For me personally most of my shots were taken with 300mm + 1.4xtc. Longer lenses such as 500mm or 600mm is only useful when you bird other areas.

Eagle Feeding

The close-up shots you see on this report were not the results of hours spent staking out the eagles and kites hunting ground, but rather they were assisted by chicken skin and entrails fed by the boat operators.

The kites and eagles are so used to this feeding method that they simply hang around and wait for food. As our boat neared the feeding ground, our boatman would rev the boat’s noisy engine to signal to the birds that food is coming and soon 20-30 eagles will take to the sky circling and waiting to pounce on the entrails release into the water.

While such feeding activities have been around for many years, condoned by the local authority and being marketed aggressively as the must see attraction in Langkawi, certain nature groups have been raising concerns that such feeding activities should cease as the birds being are systematically stripped of their dignity and made to beg and perform for their food. The wonderful sight of seeing these majestic birds hunt for their fish is now being replaced with one where they scavenge for chicken entrails. Unconfirmed report have said the lack of nutrients from feeding on chicken entrails have resulted in loss and broken plumage and un-hatched eggs breaking up prematurely.

Our boatman highlighted that the kites do go after live fish in between the chicken entrails snack which we witnessed as well. Considering there were only about 30-40 kites at this place 20 years back before the commercial feeding began to a population of 400 currently, we wonder without the feedings such a small area at Kilim would be able to sustain such high number of kites/ eagles.

End of the day, pros and cons of this eagle feeding is really beyond the scope of this article. One thing is for sure, after the trip we have had enough of Brahminy Kites and White-bellied Sea-eagles for one year…

some shots from the trip..

___________________above article, photographs contributed and copyright of Wilis

Author: Jz

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of Jz and Sophia aka busdriver

Introduction

Date: 11th-25th Nov 2007 (including flight time)

11th – flight

Depart HK at 1310hrs (Cathay CX884). Arrive Los Angeles at 0935hrs. Fight time: 12hrs 25mins

Depart LA at 1225hrs (LAN LP605). Arrive Lima at 2359hrs. Flight time: 8hrs 34mins

12th – Lima

13th – Lima

14th – Lima to Puerto Maldonado (domestic flight approx. 2hrs 35mins).

15th – Sandoval Lake

16th – Sandoval Lake to Cuzco (domestic flight approx. 50mins).

17th – Inka Trail

18th – Inka Trail

19th – Inka Trail

20th – Inka Trail

21st – Aguas Calientes Town to Cuzco (by train approx. 5hrs)

22nd – Cuzco

23rd – Cuzco to Lima (domestic flight approx. 1hr 20mins).

24th – midnight flight

Depart Lima at 0140hrs (LAN LP604). Arrive LA at 0715hrs. Fight time: 8hrs 35mins

Depart LA at 1120hrs (Cathay CX885).

25th – Arrive HK at 1855hrs. Fight time: 15hrs 35mins

The package includes:

Accidental and medical “Assist Card” insurance inside Peru up to US$2,000.00. “Assist Card” assistance for luggage and personal documentation loss. English speaking shared guide for the excursions 24 hours assistance. Air tickets inside Peru. All camping equipment at Inka Trail – 1 guide and 5 porters (does not carry your sleeping bag and backpack) Train tickets Machu Picchu – Cuzco (Vistadome train category) All Entrance fees. All transfers.

Meals Included:

Daily breakfasts 04 lunches 02 dinners All meals included during Inca Trail

The package doesn’t includes:

Airport taxes

International air fare

Sleeping bag
Total Price: USD 1,600.00/person (based on triple room)

Equipment

camera bodies: 1dmk2N, 5D

lenses: EF17-40/4, EF50/1.8, EF70-200/2.8, EF300/2.8IS, T90macro, kenko2x, Kenko1.4x

accessories: Velbon540 tripod, Arca Swiss Z1 ballhead, Epson P2000, 550EX, TC-80N3

Accomodation

Lima: Mariel Hotel (Miraflores district)

right next to Inka market, 10mins walk to Miraflores city center, 45mins walk to the beach

hot shower, TV, free internet at the lounge, breakfast is lousy

Sandoval Lake: Sandoval Lake Lodge , [1]

the only lodge in Sandoval Lake, but need to take 40mins boat, 1hr hike another 30mins boat to reach the lodge.

hot shower, food is extremely good, electricity is available at certain times only, TV at common lounge

Cuzco: Cuzco Plaza Hotel

5mins walk to city center, hot shower, TV, breakfast ok,

Aguas Calienties: Inti Inn Hotel

5mins walk to spa, 15mins to town center, 20mins to train station, 15mins to bus station

hot shower, nice breakfast

Inka Trail: Tents

2 x 2men tents for 3persons. Big enough to put your backpacks inside. Sleeping mat provided.

Guide has his own tent. Meals were taken in another bigger tentage which is also the porters’ tent at night.

Toilet facilities available at most campsites. Shower facilities only at limited campsites.

A bar and hot shower facility available at last night before reaching Machu Picchu but its packed unless you reached early.

Things to photograph in Lima

Cityscape

45mins car ride from Miraflores district to Lima town center.

Nice architectures, but the day tour will rush through all the attractions leaving you with no time to shoot properly

which was what i had for my trip, so not much photos, mainly sightseeing for me.

Advise to go on your own and take your own time, but becareful as the town is not very safe according to the guides.

The streets can be quite interesting also. Weather is always cloudy and grey, probably better to shoot the night lights.

Plaza Mayor (”Main Square”)

San Francisco Convent

Street

Newspaper stand

Nature

On the cliff, looking over the beach. You can find Kestrels resting on the palm trees in the morning.

The black vultures, gulls, pelicans, cormorants etc will be flying along the coast.

Once a while, you might find the Vermillion Flycatchers in the parks catching insects. Relatively tame bird.

Walk to the beach and you can get nice close shots of the gulls, cormorants and sometimes the Inka Terns.

View of the coast Larcoma – a shopping mall built inside the cliff and La Rosa Nautica – a seaside restaurant

Kestrel

Black Vulture

Neotropic Cormorant

Peruvian Gull

Franklin’s Gull

Transport

Lots of vintage cars running around, esp. the old beetles.

Loves the sardine packed buses picking up passengers along the road.

Vintage

Volkswagon Van

Beetle

Buses

Bus

Taxi ?!!

Sandoval Lake

Located in Puerto Maldonado, Madre de Dios river, Tambopata Nature Reserve.

Transported to Sandoval Lake Lodge office where you repack all your stuffs.

You are only required to carry a small day pack for the short hike.

A duffel bag will be provided to pack the necessary things for your stay in the lodge

which will be transported to the lodge by the staffs.

The rest of your luggage will be deposited in the office.

30mins boat ride down the Madre de Dios river to the start of the trail to the lodge.

1hr++ hike to reach the jetty of the lake. Another 30mins boat ride to the lodge.

approx. 4km hike to the jetty

Leaf Cutter Ants along the way

Sandoval Lake

Sandoval Lake Lodge

Different types of transport in the lake

The bigger catamaran

the small boat

even smaller ones

Our flight was delayed for 2 hrs due to a strike by the staffs at the Puerto Maldonado Air Traffic Control.

Also weather wasn’t too kind to us for our 3D2N stay so we had very limited chance to see and photograph the wildlife.

No chance to visit the macaw lick and also did not see the famous Giant Otters.

Wildlife we seen are Dusky Titi Monkeys, Red Howler Monkeys, Squirrel Monkeys ,Saddle Backed Tamarin,

Capuchin Monkeys, Black Caimans, Sharp Nosed Bats, etc…

Birds species seen includes, Amazon Kingfisher, Ringed Kingfisher, Green and Rufous Kingfisher, American Pygmy Kingfisher,

Greater Ani , Great Blue Heron, Agami Heron, Capped Heron, Striated Heron, ?? Tinamou, Neotropic Cormorant, Anhinga,

Greater Yellow Headed Vulture, ?? Speckled Chachalaca, ?? Woodpecker, Hoatzin, Grey Necked Wood Rail, Sungrebe,

Red Bellied Macaw, Blue and Yellow Macaw, ?? Parrot, White Ibis, Ladder Tailed Nightjar, ?? Toucanet, ?? Woodcreeper,

White Winged Swallow, Silver Beaked Tanager, Red Capped Cardinal, Black Capped Mockingthrush, Black Fronted Nunbird, etc…

Birds heard includes Tawny Bellied Screech Owl, ?? Oropendola, etc…

Smaller stuffs includes, Tarantulas, spiders, mantis, grasshopers, frogs, dung beetles, lizards, etc…

Black Caiman

Squirrel Monkey

Sharp Nosed Bats

Hoatzin

Neotropic Cormorant

Red Bellied Macaws

Tarantulas

Mantis

? frog

Cuzco

Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire (1200s-1532). Many believe that the city was planned to be shaped like a puma. Cusco is approximately over 3,399m high, is considered one of the highest cities in all the world. For travellers, this is the best place to acclimatised before ascending Machu Picchu using the inka trails. Most people will only stay overnight and proceed to the start point of the trails early next morning.

There are many photo opportunities here but you need to do some walking. Most of the guided tours are targeted to explain the long history in the shortest possible time so it can be quite rush. I have seen several good angles to get the aerial views but the tours will not get you there. The town can be quite busy with activites as it is packed with tourist most of the time. I will suggest going to Sacsayhuaman in the morning and spend some time walking at the higher grounds to get nice views of the town. In the afternoon roam the streets and mark out possible nice nightscape spots. Most likely you would cover most of the things in a day but if you are not finished, you could have another go at it when you return from machu Picchu.

Too bad i suffered mild altitude sickness so did not do much shooting.

Ollantaytambo

This is the last town we stop by before reaching the start of our hike. You can buy walking sticks, hats, snacks, water, poncho etc here. Price is a bit high though, will suggest buying most of the things back in Cuzco. You could actually stay here before ascending as some of the lodges have beautiful gardens that attract some birds including hummers. Imagine a private garden which you can shoot till you are bored. Too bad we only found out after our return trip.

Inka Trail – Machu Picchu

There are many trails to get to Machu Picchu, ranging from 2 days to wks. We chose a 4D3N trail which was one of the more popular ones. Total hike was about 42km with quite a number of ups and downs. Starting at 2600m, highest peak at 4200m(highest), another at 3950m and 3670m and then down to 2400m at Machu Picchu. 6 hrs walk for the first 2 days, 8 hrs on the third and 2 hrs on the last day. I can’t believe it when he said someone finish this trail in just over 3hrs.
Landscape along the way

One advantage of walking the trail instead of taking the train is that you get to see more of the inka ruins and also you can enjoy the view of Machu Picchu in the early morning from Sun’s gate(Inti Punku) provided weather is good, too bad it wasn’t during my visit.

Patallacta

Runkuracay

Winaywayna

Intipata

Final destination – Machu Picchu

View from Wayna Picchu (2750m). A bit disappointed as this view is a bit flat, wasted precious energy climbing this almost vertical hill (500m). I will suggest climbing Inti Punku (2700m, the peak which you see in the middle of this image) instead of Wayna Picchu to get a more 3D view of Machu Picchu. Too bad we were almost dead after this climb and rain poured down mercilessly soon after we got down.
other landscapes

the steepest ascend, 3300m to 4200m in 5km.

hi-altitude pond

hi-altitude cloud forest

Star trail at camp Hatunchaca

Birds along the way

We will not recommend birding while hiking (at least for me). Most of the time my head was down and panting heavily. Even if a bird appeared right in front of me, i would have walked past without noticing it or simply ignored it because i was just too tired to stop and unpack my birding lens from my bag. In fact, we did not see many birds along the way during the 3 days of hiking. I could only remember bumping into one bird wave during the trip which consist a few species of tanagers and manakins. Most of the time you see hummingbirds and sparrows. You could actually bird with more ease in Machu Picchu town (Aguas Calientes) itself.
Mountain Caracara

Flowers along the way

There are many interesting plants and flowers along the way. Many species of orchids are only found here. These are something you will not see if you are taking a train. Best consolation for walking this ‘challenging’ trail.

Agua Calientes

Machu Picchu town, the only place to stay when you are here unless you want to camp in the wild. Small town which is pretty self contained, many good restaurants and hotels. Saw few species of birds, including a Blue Tanager nesting by the side of a busy road.

More photos can be view here

Lima [2]

Sandoval Lake [3]

Cuzco [4]

Ollantaytambo [5]

Inka Trail [6]
Photographs and article are copyright of Jz and Sophia aka busdriver

updated June 2008

Author & Editor

Author: Starrynight

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of starrynight

Introduction

I realized that bird photography tour is different from the ‘usual’ holiday. Bird photography tour has its own specific aim and hence special preparations as well as mindset will make a difference.

First and foremost, I will always prepare to enjoy what comes along. Rather than getting upset of what shots I have missed out or what birds I have not seen. This is important.

A dream holiday to Lake Nakuru, Kenya
I would like to share some of my experience:

Setting your goal

Every place will have some ‘normal’ birds and some ‘star’ birds. So when I am going for a bird photography trip, I will research on the birds that I want to see in that place. This will form a basis that I work around to plan the trip.

The bird ‘season’ is a single most important factor to consider. To maximize my chance and time, I will usually employ a local guide.

I will always be realistic and match my fitness to the destination as well as activities.

Photographer in National Park of Thailand. Shooting in dense forest could be humid and hot and may not be everyone’s idea of ‘holiday’.

Setting the journey

Once I settle on the destination, work and home arrangement, I will check out the air route and ticket. I will always consider the airline, route, stop over, country of transit and price. The price often is NOT everything. For example, an overnight stop over air ticket may cost more considering the hotel/land transport as well as the time wasted.

Another example is that budget airline may be cheaper but their luggage weight allowance is small and fussy about overweight. You may end up paying more for excess weight because of the heavy camera equipment.

I use MISA travel sometimes especially for the complex route and not so common destination. ( www.airfares.com.sg) / Tel: 65380318

Nowadays air tickets can be fully booked fairly early (like 2 months ahead!!) This can be frustrating. So what I normally do is that I will book it ASAP and change later.

Setting the stage

Next I will research on the season (for clothings n type of birds), climate, weather (for lighting n type of birds), people, language, culture, currency (estimate how much $ to change), electrical voltage (for charging battery) etc. I have a standard checklist that I will normally follow through.

Like I said before, I will engage a local guide to maximize my chance as well as my time. This will also provide a hassle free experience as well as for personal safety (don’t forget you may carry >$10k worth of equipment!!!). This is especially true for area that has high crime rate.

Of course some places like Australia and New Zealand are great to self drive, hence guide may not be necessary throughout the trip or can just engage local guide on ad hoc basis.

Japanese guide in Hokkaido. Although communication is a little tough but without him, it is not easy to find some of my ‘target’ like Stella Eagle. He tried his very best to help me along. And his wife’s cooking is ‘A’ class!!!
I usually do this by searching on website or through friends recommendation. A few key points to note when searching for guide in the web:

1. Key in ‘bird photography tour’ and the destination. This is because I want to search for photography tour and NOT any holiday or birding tour. Those people who does photography tour will better suit our needs.

2. Engage a local agency. It is always cheaper. For example – don’t waste your time if you are going India and the website is “www.xxyyzz.co.uk”.This agency is from UK and they will need to earn as well.

3. Those ‘photography workshop’ are instructional tour. They can be expensive unless you wanted to learn photographic skills from the tour.

4. Once I found these local agencies, I will email them about the tour and I will always specify that I am a serious amateur photographer. Through corresponding, I will get to know them better and pick one that is most consistent, systematic and responsive to my questions.

5. The agencies will usually wants some deposit if not the full cost before your departure. Check with the local authority or travel association or tourist board if your agency is a registered one with good reputation!

Other preparations

Shooting conditions

Find out from your guide / internet / trip report about shooting condition. Equipment preparation may be slightly different. If you are shooting mainly from vehicle, bean bag became an essential accessory. If you are shooting mainly in forest area, then flash and flash extender are important.

In this situation, photographer was shooting from boat. He modified the support by using a monopod. Taken in Myanmar.

Shooting condition can be challenging and requires preparation. In this case, water proofing of tripod leg may be necessary as the photographer waded into water. Taken in the shore of Thailand

Medical

Vaccinations

Prevention is better than cure!! Certain places will require vaccinations and this need to be done at least 2weeks to a month before departure. Tan Tock Seng Hospital (tel 63572222) and Changi hospital ( 6850 3685/ 6850 3333) have traveler’s clinic, not forgetting that some GP give good advice too. Do call up before you turn up in the clinic.

Don’t save on vaccinations … it is important and most of these vaccinations will last a long time i.e. 1 to 10 years!

Medical condition

Understand your medical condition and match your activities. Do consult your usual doctor if uncertain.

Preventive medications

Malaria prophylaxis is essential for some places. One need to take a week before, during the trip and 4 weeks after the trip. There are different types and 1 tablet is about S$3-5. Do consult GP or traveler’s clinic. However, do bear in mind that malaria tablet is NOT 100%. You will still need to use insect repellent / body cover etc.

Oh.. remember to bring along sun screen as well.

First aid kit

Pack a simple first aid kit. This should include bandages, gauze, antiseptic solution, panadol, charcoal pills (for diarrhea), anti-vomiting, anti-diarrhea, for constipation etc. Ask your GP or doctor friends for help.

Documents

Photocopy your passport and safe keep it.

Check if Visa is necessary (can do so with travel agency).

Exit permit for Singapore males (if needed).

Your credit card numbers, emergency phones for credit card and family members.

Driving license (Some places will need an international driving license. You can get it from AA).

Insurance

Do get travel insurance. If u do travel more than 3 weeks a year, it may be worthwhile getting a full year type. For AIA is about $300 for a year.

Currency

The Indian foreign exchange shop near to the taxi stand at Parkway Parade gives a not too bad exchange rate. Remember to prepare some loose change for tips. It is almost ‘compulsary’ or ‘cultural’ in certain country, so check before you leave for the country!

I personally feel that traveler’s cheque is very troublesome. Credit card became my back up. The POSB ATM card (the newer one with all the ‘cirrus’, ‘maestro’ sign) can draw $ from overseas ATM. Just make sure you get a machine that speaks English!

US dollars is the most versatile currency.

If I am going on a long trip and carry quite a bit of cash, I will have a belt that has a zip pocket on the reverse side to put away some rolled up $$. Sports connection sells one for S$7 but mine spoilt after 1 trip. I got myself one custom made in India instead.

Equipment

Well, this is the painful and difficult part. I am always torn between the weight issue and possibility of using the equipment later.

Equipment can be heavy and may take up 80% of your load. Taken in Lake Nakuru, Kenya

Camera equipment

• Camera and flash

Advisable to bring 2. If one plan for a fantastic trip but found the camera spoilt when one arrive in the destination can be suicidal!!

• Batteries

Recommanded to have at least 2 sets of batteries for each camera. Don’t forget the charger and the power socket adaptor (for foreign country).

• Memory card

At least a few 1GB. Bring a portable storage device if u shooting in raw or on a long trip. I am using PD70X. It is battery operated and fast speed. So far I have no problem with that. One with a 80GB HDD cost about $300 plus.

• Tripod n head

This will need to check in as they are not allow to hand carry onto the plane. Proper protection is needed to prevent any unnecessary damages. Packing them into a hard case will prevent demage as heavy weight may be loaded onto them during transfer in cargo space.

• Cleaning equipment

Important especially on long trip. Mine consist of a blower, a small painting brush (to brush the external part of camera n lens), and a lens cleaning pen.

• Protective cover

This is not only important for rain protection but also dust. Imagine if you sit on a jeep and chase after a rare bird …. By the time u got the shot, both u and camera will be covered with dust!! And when dust get into little gaps around the equipment, it can be very difficult to clean.

Others

• Equipment protection

I personally like to bring trash bags, zip lock bag (big ones can be bought at Beach road army market), shower caps (Use to cover the camera body and the connection between lens and body when drizzling so that I can still continue to take pics) and plastic wrap. All these are light weight, easy to use, cheap, disposable and DIFFICULT to buy when in the jungle! Also rubber bands may come in handy.

• Personal protection

For rain/cold etc, including rain coat or warm clothing. Certain area although tropical, can be chilly in mountain area. Also ‘quick dry’ material clothing are highly recommended. The usually branded ones are expensive. ‘Sport connections’ do have similar ‘quick dry’ clothing but at a cheaper price. A pair of good walking shoes is also important.

• GPS, Compass n torch light

For navigation purposes. GPS is extremely helpful if one is going to self drive or self tracking in forest.

• Writing material

Especially to fill in immigration card!

• Tool kit or Swiss knife

Remember to put in check in luggage!

• Visual aids

Sun glasses (especially if you plan to drive or destination has snow or hot sun!) and binoculars.

• Dehumifying stuff

Some places are very humid e.g. Costa Rica. I was very nervous about lens getting fungus. So do bring some silica gel beads or even a small ‘hungry hippo’ … Even if it doesn’t help, at least it put your mind at ease!
Packing

Because lots of the equipment are fragile and one may have to carry as hand luggage. Airline rules had been changing since September 11 and they are stricter. One may have to check with the respective airlines and airport.

Packing equipment must be a conscious effort and weight issue is real! One of the trick is to put some in the coat / outer wear to reduce the carry on luggage weight. Another piece of advise which I learnt from painful experience. Compartmentalize your things and put it back immediately after you have used it. Losing even something small in the field can spoil your whole trip!

Here is a little checklist which might be useful
Documents n procedures

1. Tour guide contact details

2. Credit card details and number

3. Change Foreign Currency

4. Exit permit (For NS men)

5. Spouse’s or parent’s permit plus blessing – very very important!!!

6. Air Ticket

7. Copy of passport

8. VISA

9. Travel insurance

10. Emergency contact details

11. Passport

12. Driver license

MEDICAL

1. Vaccinations

2. Hepatitis A

3. Hepatitis B

4. Typhoid

5. Chlorea

6. Tetanus

7. Yellow fever (for Africa)

8. Mosquito repellent

9. First aid kit

10. Medications

11. Sunscreen

12. Vitamins

PERSONAL ITEM

1. Toiletries (Soap, Shampoo, Toothpaste and Toothbrush)

2. Shaver

3. Clothings (Tops, Pants, Sleeping attire, Underwear, Socks, Rain n warm clothing, Shorts)

4. Hat

5. Slipper

6. Sunglasses

7. Towel

8. Tissue paper / Wet wipes

9. Moisturizer

10. Torchlight

11. Tool kit

12. Small sewing kit

13. Binoculars

14. Writing material

15. Washing detergent

16. Alarm Clock

CAMERA EQUIPMENT

1. Body A (Main body)

2. Body B (Backup body if any)

3. Long lens

4. Shorter lens

5. Wide angle

6. Macro lens

7. Flash

8. Tripod

9. Tripodhead

10. Flash bracket (if any)

11. CF cards

12. Extension cord

13. Remote control

14. Batteries for flash

15. Batteries for body A

16. Batteries for body B

17. Flash extender

18. Charger for battery A

19. Charger for battery B

20. Charger for flash batteries (Usually AA)

21. Storage device + any necessary cables

22. Charger for storage device (if yours is using proprietary batteries)

23. Power point adapter (aka travellers adapter)

24. Lens protective cover

25. Lens rain cover

26. Lens cleaner

27. Brush for external cleaning

28. Dust blower

29. Ziplock bag

30. Dehumidifier

31. Trash bags

32. Bean bag

33. Plastic bags
Other things to take note:

1. Hard disc if it is battery operated will be useful in places where electricity is limited

2. Umbrella plastic bag for tripod legs

3. All battery to be fully charged before departure!

4. Mobile hide can comes in handy for elusive species.
This list is not exhaustive … items will be added as and when when I remember/recall …
Safety

When you arrived at the destination, no matter how safe it is, one must not take it for granted. “Low crime is not NO crime” !! Common sense do apply … like lock the car door when one get into car, do not flash your equipment in the city area, do not leave things unattended … and so on …
Last but not least, pack in some humour! It will take you a long way …

Relax and enjoy the wilderness … it is a holiday afterall!!!

Bon voyage!

Photographs and article are copyright of starrynight

The Kinabatangan River is located in the Malaysia’s state of Sabah. Stretching 560km from the Crocker Range in the southwest of Sabah to Sulu Sea in the east, it is well-known for its remarkable flora and fauna diversity, spanning across habitats such as dipterocarp forests, freshwater swamps, oxbow lakes, salty mangrove swamps and limestone caves. It is reputedly has the highest density of wildlife in the whole of Southeast Asia, and a true photographer’s haven.

But sadly the rich biodiversity is being threatened by excessive loggings and clearing of lands for plantations. On one of our night river cruise, we came across boats transporting timber thru the river, a sorry sight and an insult to the beauty of nature. But talking about the state of Kinabatangan is well beyond the scope of this report, so let us go back to discussing more about the photography opportunity and the logistics.

While we will share images taken on trip, the real objective of this article is not to list the many wonderful birds and wildlife one can see. We believe there has been enough trip reports on the net covering this topic extensively. The objective of this article is to share the costs involved, logistics needed and challenges encountered to prepare other like-minded nature photographers for a similar trip down the Kinabatangan.

Participants

Remo: 2nd visit to Kinabatangan.

Jay Tan, Ender Tey and Wilis: first timers.

Getting There

The town nearest to Kinabatangan river is Sandakan town. It has an international airport serving few destinations domestic and international. Air Asia runs direct flight between KL-Sandakan and Johor Bahru-Sandakan, although at during our trip (May2008), the JB-Sandakan route seems to be irregular.

For our party of 4, the easiest and cheapest for us were to drive to Kuala Lumpur, followed by AirAsia flight to Sandakan.

From Sandakan, it is a further 3 hours drive away to Sukau, which is one of the key villages on lower Kinabatangan. Sukau has a number of budget accommodation and mid class lodges catering to travelers with different budgets.

To sum up, although Kinabatangan is quite accessible, the lack of direct access from Singapore means it still took us more than 12 hours just to reach there.

Singapore- KL: 4 hours drive to KL Sentral.

KL Sentral to LCCT (Low Cost Terminal): 1 hour (http://www.skybus.com.my)

KL- Sandakan: 2 hours 45minutes by AirAsia

Sandakan – Sukau Kinabatangan: 3 hours by van

And the above have not included the transit and waiting time.

Alternative Route: Fly Singapore- Kota Kinabalu (KK), and then from KK to Sandakan.

Note: Air Asia has a strict 15kg check in luggage weight limit, although strangely they didn’t bother to check on the weight of the carry on. I hand carried 2 lowepro bags (600 lens trekker and Mini Trekker) with total exceeding 20kgs.

Itinerary

To minimise taking too many annual leave, we took advantage of the Labour day holiday long weekend.

Day 1: Singapore- KL- Sandakan and overland to Sukau (Kinabatangan)

Day 2: Kinabatangan full day

Day 3: Kinabatangan full day

Day 4: Return to Singapore.

Selecting Outfitters

Some of the local outfitters we approached were:
North Borneo Safari: owned by Cede Prudente

North Borneo Safari runs Sukau Tomangong Riverview Lodge

http://www.sukaulodge.com/STRL/index.html

Robert Chong Kinabatangan’s Jungle Camp

http://www.kinabatangan-jungle-camp.com/

Borneo Eco Tours

http://www.borneoecotours.com/welcome/

Sukau Bed & Breakfast

http://www.sukau-bnb.com/

Sukau B&B’s simple room, with good ventilation, ceiling fan, and power point

Sukau B&B

In the end we chose to go with Shuairey from Sukau Bed & Breakfast for 2 reasons:

1. Instead of lump-sum package the norm of other operators, he provided a detail breakdown of each cost item. This was very helpful as it allowed us the flexibility to change and fine-tune further to suit our budget.

2. His quote of RM2,710 for 4 pax were much lower than the others that quoted between RM8-RM9000.

The boats used by operators are almost the same, and the only advantage we can see other operators offer were probably better accommodation & food, as well as possibly a more experienced guide. Having said that, we were still unable to fathom the huge difference in price.

It was flexible with Sukau B&B because on the last 2 days when we decided to cancel some of the boat sessions after discovering the flycatcher’s nesting at the camp, we were not charged for those, and that brought down the cost to RM2,310 (RM578 per pax)

At a tender young age of 20, Shuairey has a lot of potential and were extremely sharp in locating birds and animals at night. However, he appeared less enthusiastic during the day session, leaving us to do most of the work. So I would say he is impressive for night boating, and mediocre during the day :)

Shuairey

What’s in a Day’s Agenda?

Typically we have 3 boat sessions daily. Morning from 6am-10am, followed by 2-6pm in the afternoon and night time from 8-10pm.

The boat is a simple 6-seaters, 21 footer one engine wooden boat. It also has electric mode so when we’re in tributary and smaller rivers, or when we want to approach birds, the boatman can switch to electric mode for quite cruising and approaching. However, it is not covered and you will be subjected to hot sun and rain.

In between boat session, we bird the forested areas around the campsite, or simply just catching up on sleep and back-up photos.

During our time there we had mostly sunny and hot late mornings, followed by thunderstorms in the afternoon. Waterproofing equipment and yourself are very important.

Equipment to Carry

For this trip I was relying on my Canon 600mm mounted on tripod on the boat. I used Canon 17-40mm for landscape. Although I took along my Canon 70-200mm, it was rarely used. I wish I had brought along my macro lens instead of the Canon 70-200mm as the place were full of exciting insects, butts and moths that would’ve kept me occupied while having birds vacuum.

My decision to bring along Canon 300mm 2.8 proved correct as it was used often, especially on the monkeys and handholding on night boat sessions. Although the river is relatively calm, photographing from the boat can be rather tricky business and there’s always risk of shake.

For photos back-up, I rely on Asus eeepc & Buffalo 120GB portable hard disk. Weighing only 900 grams and with second hand price of less than $400 in Singapore, I would take it along anyday instead of portable back-up device the likes of Epson or Nexto.

Remo backing up photos of the day on his Asus eeepc

Wildlife at Kinabatangan

5 most interesting birds photographed during the trip:

1. Darter (Anhinga): can be found at the tributary like Sungai Menanggol, as well as oxbow lakes.

2. Blue-eared Kingfisher: probably the most common kingfishers at Kinabatangan. We have countless encounters with this little jewel. However sighting is one thing, and approaching the bird is another as most are quite skittish. Only during the night boating session were we allowed to approach very close.

3. Malaysian Blue Flycatcher: one pair nesting at Sukau B&B.

Malaysian Blue Flycatcher by Ender Tey

4. Black & Red Broadbills: Nests were plentiful along the river.

5. Buffy Fish Owl. The most common birds at night.

Raptors were supposed to be plenty at Kinabatangan but we didn’t have many sightings on this trip.
Other interesting animals we saw during the trip:

1. Proboscis monkeys: The monkey with long nose. One of the most common monkeys along Kinabatangan and like to jump from one tree to the next.

2. Orang-utan: We only heard the call at Kinabatangan. On the last day we checked out Sepilok Orang Utan Rehab Centre. Established in 1964, the centre’s objective is to return orphaned orang utans back to the ‘wild’. If you have sighted the wild orang utans at Kinabatangan, we suggest to give this place a miss.

3. Baby crocodile and civet cat during night boat session.

We hoped to be able to photograph the pygmy elephants. Unfortunately we did not encounter any during this trip. Well, always need to leave something to look forward to for the next trip.

Detail cost breakdown

Spore- KL return by car:

Toll Charges approx RM120 total

Petrol approx RM150

Cost/Pax: RM68

Parking was free as one of us have relative staying near KL Sentral. Otherwise parking at LCCT costs about RM36 per 24 hours block. However, park at your own risk as vehicle theft is not uncommon in KL. (http://www.klia.com.my/LCCTerminal/LCCgetting-to-terminal.html)

KL Sentral to LCCT:

Airport Shuttle at RM9/pax. Runs every half hourly from 3.30am. More info (http://www.skybus.com.my)

KL-Sandakan:

Return air tix including taxes by Air Asia approx RM420

Sepilok Orang Utan Reserve

RM30 for foreigners, RM5 for Malaysians, RM10 per camera permit

Sukau B&B: Room (twin bed) incl breakfast: RM40/night

Boating (Day): RM25/boat/hour

Boating (Night): RM30/boat/hour

Transport Sandakan-Sukau RM250 per way without stopover at Sepilok Orang Utan centre. RM300 with stopover at Sepilok

Meals at Sukau B&B RM10/pax/meal. Meal consists of 3 dishes & fruit. Recommended

More Photos from Borneo

Common Iora collecting nest materials by William Susanto

Black-backed Kingfisher by Jay Tan

and some catches from night boat session…

Black & Red Broadbills by Jay Tan

Buffy Fish Owl by William Susanto

Article by William Susanto, photographs contributed and copyright of William Susanto, Ender Tey and Jay Tan

Author: MountainMan

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of MountainMan

Introduction

Christmas Island is a small tropical oceanic island (137 km2) situated in the eastern Indian Ocean, approximately 300 km south of Java, 1300 km south of Singapore, and 1200 km from its nearest point to the Australian Continent. The island remained uninhabited till the late 1800s when humans first settled on the island to exploit its vast phosphate resource. Previously under colonial rule administered from Singapore, the island today is a territory of Australia.

Geology

Christmas Island is the uplifted peak of a huge underwater volcanic mountain, rising steeply some 5000 m from the ocean floor. The highest point on the island is 361 m above sea level. Over the eons, the island has been raised above sea level in stages allowing the wave action to cut new cliffs at each stage, resulting in a series of picturesque terraces and dramatic inland cliffs rising to a central plateau at about 250-300 m. Coral formed over the volcanic core at each stage of the island’s development, providing a thick crust of limestone that now covers the island, and above this is a blanket of phosphate rich soil built up by large colonies of seabirds. The deepest soils occur on the central plateau and the upper terraces. The distribution of plants can be correlated to soil depth and moisture, exposure and distance from the sea. The coastal zone is generally saline with thin soils. The zone immediately behind this is also a harsh habitat for most plants, especially where it faces the prevailing south-easterly winds. Pandanus and salt bush (Scaevola taccada) are typical of places exposed to salt spray. Further inland, the environment becomes more sheltered and lush rainforest develops. The island’s 80-kilometre coastline is an almost continuous sea cliff. In a few places, the cliff gives way to shallow bays with small sand and coral shingle beaches.

Christmas Island coastline

The island is surrounded by a narrow encircling coral reef. There is virtually no coastal shelf, and the sea plummets to a depth of about 500 metres within 200 metres of the shore.

Natural Paradise

Christmas Island has much to offer the avid nature and landscape photographer. The rugged craggy landscape and deep turquoise ocean panoramas offers much photogenic opportunities, in addition to the great fauna and flora heritage of the island. 63% of the island has been gazetted for protection as the Christmas Island National Park. Much of the rest of the island shows scars resulting from more than a century of human exploitation and phosphate mining. In spite of this, much of the wildlife remains intact and could be well seen in and near the settled areas of the island.

Brown Bobby nesting off cliffs at Dolly Beach

Birds

One of the greatest natural attributes on Christmas Island is the birds. Being the only landmass for such a vast distance in the Indian Ocean, Christmas Island is an important refuge for seabirds and migrating birds. The eons of physical isolation also ensured that Christmas Island has a few endemic gems that are not found anywhere else in the world. There are only 23 species of resident birds (including feral or introduced species) on Christmas Island. Though lacking much in diversity, Christmas Island can boast of being home to some of the rarest birds in the world, and how visitors can easily get see and photograph them. Examples of such are the Christmas Island Frigatebird, and Abbott’s Bobby, both of these classified as highly endangered species, only breed on Christmas Island and nowhere else in the world.

Photographing Frigatebirds at LB3

The eons of isolation has enabled a number of other endemics to evolve on the island. The Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon, Christmas Island Hawk-Owl, and Christmas Island White-eye are the three endemic terrestrial birds. There are a number of endemic avian subspecies on Christmas Island too, namely the endemic subspecies of the Brown Goshawk, Island Thrush, Glossy Swiftlet, Emerald Dove, and the yellow morph of the White-tailed Tropicbird (locally referred to as the Golden Bosunbird). In addition to the 23 residential bird species, Christmas Island is temporary refuge for a large number of migrating bird species. Christmas Island is thus a haven for twitchers from Australia trying to “tick off” those rare vagrant Asian birds on the Australian bird list. The bird checklist for Christmas Island can be found here[1]

1. Christmas Island Frigatebird (Fregata adrewsi)

Endemic. Locally common, usually seen soaring on thermals and updrafts near cliffs in the North-Eastern part of the island, together with other frigatebird species. Three known breeding colonies on the island; the inland cliffs at the Chinese Cemetery, the inland cliff at the Golf Course, and the inland cliff below Territory Day Park. The best place to photograph these birds is at the phosphate stockpile area on Phosphate Hill where pools of water accumulate after rains. Frigatebirds (mainly Christmas Island Frigatebird, lesser numbers of Greater Frigatebird, and occasionally the Lesser Frigatebird) would swoop over these temporary pools of water to drink

2 Great Frigatebird (F. minor)

Most common of the 3 frigatebirds. Widespread distribution, usually seen “riding” the updrafts near cliffs. The most accessible roosting and nesting site for the Greater Frigatebird is at Ethel Beach. The best place to photograph these birds is at LB3 where a large pool of fresh water accumulates. Frigatebirds (mainly Greater Frigatebird, lesser numbers of Christmas Island Frigatebird, and occasionally the Lesser Frigatebird) would swoop over water surface to drink.

3 Lesser Frigatebird (F. ariel)

Uncommon but regular visitor to the Island. The smallest of the 3 frigatebird species, it is very hard to spot the very few Lesser Frigatebirds that might be flying amongst the many other frigatebird species. A known small breeding colony is found at the North West Point beyond the new Detention Centre.

4 Brown Booby (Sula leucogaster)

Common, seen in flight around ocean cliffs. Nests on the ground on cliffs ledges around the whole island, especially in places less frequented by people. The most accessible and visible nesting site is Low Point, a limestone terrace between Lily Beach and Ethel Beach. I have found nests where-ever there is a ledge on the cliff wall including Smith Point, cliffs near Dolly Beach, Martin Point, and even right in the middle of the cliff track to Winfred Beach !

5 Abbott’s Booby (S. abbotti)

Endemic. Uncommon. Most reliably seen in the late evening along Murray Road near the Plantation, as adult birds singly fly across the road on their return from the open sea to their nests or roosting trees. Most common on Christmas Island in March and April. One of the hardest birds to photograph on the island (unless you have the inclination to climb tall trees to photograph them in their nests, or lucky enough to have one rescued fallen bird rehabilitating at the Ranger’s home). Birds are usually seen when they return from the ocean in the late evenings after their day’s hunt, so be prepared for photography under very challenging light conditions. I have seen a solitary bird returning from the ocean at Margaret Knoll, and another at Low Point (between Lily Beach and Ethel Beach).

6 Red-footed Booby (S. sula)

Most common seabird on the island. Seen in flight near coastal and inland cliffs. Many nesting colonies in the forested cliffs of the Island. Most accessible nesting colonies along Lily Beach Road (especially around the slopes of Ryan Hill), at the Chinese Cemetery, and the Golf Course. Very visible and noisy bird that may perch only a few meters above (just beyond your reach) the road along Lily Beach Road. Many nests seen on the trees along Lily Beach Road. Birds in flight can be photograph from most vantage points on the island, including Margaret Knoll, Territory Day Park, Low Point, Chinese Cemetery, and along Lily Beach Road just before Ryan Hill.

7 Red-tailed Tropicbird (Silver Bosunbird) (Phaeton rubricauda)

Commonly seen flying off the coastal cliffs, especially at Smith Point and the north-eastern coast from Rocky Point to Mango Tree Lodge. Ground nesting, on protected ledges of steep ocean cliffs around the bases vegetation or in cavities. The most accessible nesting site is at The Sitting Room (ask the locals where this is) at The Settlement, in front of the old Governor’s House. Many nests there can be found around the base of the Pandanus sp. plants and protected limestone cavities on the coastal cliff ledge. Approach all nesting birds with due care, respect, and responsibility. It may be worth to know that the entire colony of nestlings at the Sitting Room (approximately 20 nests) was lost to feral cats during the 2006/2007 breeding season. Birds are most active during the middle of the day (11 am to about 2 pm)

8 White-tailed Tropicbird (Golden Bosunbird) (P. lepturus fulvus)

Endemic subspecies ‘fulvus’ based on the golden-apricot colour of adults. Occurs in all part of island from coast to inland plateau, but most commonly seen flying close to the coastal and inland cliffs of the settled north-eastern part of the island. Best viewing locations include Smith Point, the Visitors Centre, along Gaze Road (near the Police Station), George Fam Centre, and the lookout at Territory Day Park. Nests in tree hollows, among buttress roots, in cliff cavities and holes in limestone pinnacles left in quarry sites, also in pipes. A known accessible nest in a hole at the base of a dead tree on the roadside opposite the Poon Saan Club; over the years, this nest site has been repeated used. Birds are most active during the middle of the day (10 am to about 3 pm) with their aerial acrobatic performance.

9 Brown (Common) Noddy (Anous stolidus)

Common. Seen perched on the railings of the phosphate loader cantilevers, and on the mooring buoys and mooring lines at the dock. Nest on ledges of shoreline cliffs and in terrace forest trees. The best place to photograph these birds is at Flying Fish Cove where they nest on the limestone cliff on the right side (north) of the cove. Nests are also common on the cliffs at Lily Beach.

10 Pacific (Eastern) Reef Egret (Egretta sacra)

Uncommon. Can be seen foraging along shore. Both “white” and “grey” morphs seen. Best places to see this bird include the beach at Flying Fish Cove and the rocky shore at Waterfall Bay.

11 White-faced Heron (Ardea novaehollandiae)

Uncommon. Individual bird or in small groups foraging at the golf course and garbage dump (wet pit).

12 White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus)

Uncommon. Very shy bird. Most reliably seen at the garbage dump (tyres area), and at the entrance to the Resort.

13 Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon (Ducula whartoni)

Endemic. Common throughout the Island, where there are trees. The birds prefer the canopy of primary rainforest trees of the inland plateau, also secondary re-growth forests throughout the island. During the dry season, birds tend to come down to the ground to drink from water pools. Their call is distinctive and often heard in the forest. Often seen perched on the trees along Lily Beach Road near the crest of Ryan Hill. The refuse tip (near the south-eastern entrance) also has a large population of these pigeons.

14 Christmas Island Emerald Dove (Chalcophaps indica natalis)

Endemic subspecies. Common in wooded areas throughout the island, where individuals or pairs are seen foraging on the ground, always preferring shaded areas. I have consistently seen the Emerald Dove along the unsealed vehicular track to Margaret Knoll, and along the main road to the Resort (Golf Course Road) where it passes through a patch of heavy forest cover just before the entrance turnoff to Linkwater Road.

15 Christmas Island Goshawk (Accipiter fasciatus natalis)

Endemic subspecies. Uncommon but widespread throughout the island. A bird of closed canopy forest but frequents forest edges and some rather open areas. This bird is known to be friendly to humans, and a tendency to follow humans along their path in the forest. The most likely place to see this bird is along North-West Point Road and the Dales Road around the vicinity of the new Detention Centre. The bird has been seen at the entrance to the hospital, Margaret Knoll, the Plantation, at the end of Taman Sweetland Cresent, and even in the overgrown areas between Poon Saan and Silvercity. Some authors treated this bird as a full species of its own: Accipiter natalis.

16 Australian (Nankeen) Kestrel (Falco cenchroides)

Common. Individuals or pairs usually seen in open country widespread throughout the whole island. Often seen perched on roadside overhead wires and poles. The best place to photograph this bird on a natural perch includes the bare tree at VLU2 Radio Station in Drumsite, atop of the rock boulders in the phosphate stockpile area on Phosphate Hill, and on trees with open branches at the refuse tip.

17 Christmas Island Glossy Swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta natalis)

Endemic subspecies. Very common throughout the island, especially around wooded areas, often in low random erratic flight, while foraging for insects. Nest in the high ceilings of limestone caves. Even though very common and widespread, it is probably the most challenging of the resident birds to photograph. The most accessible nesting site is in the upper Daniel Roux Cave; on the cave ceiling about 30 metres beyond the cave entrance (just beneath the nesting site is a 4 metre high pile of guano ! You definitely cannot miss this phenomenal pile of guano)

18 Christmas Island Thrush (Turdus poliocephalus erythropleurus)

Endemic subspecies. Common and widespread throughout the island in varied habitats from settled areas to dense rainforest Usually seen foraging on the ground. Tame and approachable. Flies up to a low tree perch when flushed. One of the best places to find and photograph this bird is at Territory Day Park. Can be often seen in the gardens of homes.

19 Christmas Island White-eye (Zosterops natalis)

Endemic. Widespread. Extremely common (the most abundant bird on Christmas Island!), found throughout the island in all vegetated habitats – in gardens, roadside vegetation and forests. Moves around in flocks while foraging, twittering as they fly from bush to bush.

20 Java Sparrow (Padda oryzivora)

An uncommon introduced species. Confined to the settled areas of the Island where small flocks can be seen, especially at disturbed areas of re-growth. Usually in small flocks and may be in mixed flocks with the Eurasian Tree Sparrow. Very shy bird and difficult to approach. The best opportunity to photograph the bird is during the very early morning in the garden of a home opposite VQ3 Lodge in the Settlement. This is private property so ask for permission first! A small population at Territory Day Park.

21 Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)

Common introduced species. Confined to the settled areas of the Island where small flocks can be seen.

22 Christmas Island Hawk-Owl (Ninox natalis)

Endemic. Uncommon but widespread occurring throughout the island. Roost in the dense primary and secondary rainforest on both the island plateau and coastal terraces during the day, but comes out to the forest edge trees to hunt at dusk. Occasionally seen in more open areas such as along roadsides and in settled areas (e.g. hawking insects from around lights). Best opportunity to see the owl is to spot-light for them just after dusk perching on the understory branches of trees at the edge of the Golf Course. The owls can often be heard calling; they will respond to, and will be attracted to a recorded playback call.

Crabs

With 14 species of land crabs, Christmas Island is home to the most remarkable abundance and diversity of land crabs in the world. The most famous of the land crabs is the Red Crabs (Gecarcoidea natalis), which at the onset of the annual wet season, usually between November and December, embark on a spectacular and dangerous migration journey from their forest burrows in the high central plateau to the sea to breed, and then returning. This is truly one of nature’s most incredible displays that probably occur nowhere else in the world.

Red Crabs climbing cliff wall at Ethel Beach

The annual spectacle of the Red Crab migration attracts the interest of international visitors, as well as the local community. This unique natural event can be easily observed everywhere, as ubiqutious crabs would often even enter homes on the migration route. During peak migration period, sections of roads where crabs cross in high numbers may be closed to vehicles. The zenith of the migration is the spawning of eggs into the ocean by the female crabs. Around the time of the last quarter moon, the egg-laden females descend from the terraces to the shoreline, packing into shaded areas above the waterline at densities of up to 100 per square metre in places to await the right moment. At the turn of the pre-dawn high tide, the females would enter the sea to release their eggs in a frenzy. The best places to watch the spectacular pre-dawn spawning are at Flying Fish Cove, Ethel Beach and Greta Beach.

Red Crabs spawming at Ethel Beach

Although occurring in most of the tropical islands of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, Christmas Island boasts of the largest population of the giant Robber Crabs (Birgus latro) in the world. Also known as Coconut Crabs, these gigantic crabs could live to as long as 40 to 60 years old. They are found in most parts of the island, from the shore terraces to the highest forested plateau areas, generally seeking shelter by day and venturing to the open at night or on overcast days. The other very conspicuous land crab on Christmas Island is the Blue Crab (Discoplax hirtipes) which prefers the wetter parts of the island. Active during the day, the Blue Crabs are seen in large numbers at the Dales, and along the track to Dolly Beach.

Mammals

Of the five native mammals, two have become extinct since the arrival of humans. The Christmas Island Flying-fox (Pteropus melanotus natalis) is an endemic subspecies which was formerly widespread, but has experienced significant population declines. Unlike other bats, the Christmas Island Flying-fox is active in the day and can often be seen flying and feeding even at midday. Evenings at Margaret Knoll is one of the best places to see and photograph the flying-foxes soaring with the wind from their roosts on the coastal terrace to the central plateau to feed. When mangos are in season, the flying-fox are also often seen feeding on mango trees at Territory Day Park, Smith Point, and the Pink House.

Christmas Island Flying-fox flying pass Margaret Knoll

The Christmas Island Pipistrelle Bat (Pipistrellus murrayi), which is an endemic small insectivorous bat, was previously common and widespread on the Island. However, in the last decade it has declined markedly in distribution and abundance, and is now also classified as critically endangered. The Christmas Island Shrew (Crocidura attenuata trichura) was thought to be extinct before two specimens were found in 1984 and 1985, and it is now listed as Critically Endangered. There have been no confirmed sightings since.

Reptiles

Of the six native terrestrial reptiles, five are endemic. The sixth is the Foreshore Skink (Emoia atrocostata), common also on other oceanic islands. The five endemics include two skinks, the Blue-tailed Skink (Crytptoblepharus egeriae) and the Forest Skink (Emoia nativitatis); two geckos, the Giant Gecko (Cryptodactylus sp. nov.) and the Tree Gecko (Lepidodactylus listeri); and one burrowing snake, the Pink Blind Snake (Ramphotyphlops exocoeti). There has been a marked decline in the range of several species over the previous decade. Five exotic terresterial reptiles comprising two geckos, one skink and two snakes occur in and around the settled area. These are regionally abundant species associated with human colonisation. All introduced reptiles on Christmas Island are found in the park, but some like the Grass Skink are more common than others. The House Gecko (Gehyra mutilata), the Barking Gecko (Hemidactylus frenatus), and the Black Blind Snake (Ramphotyphlops braminus) are found in the Park. The Wolf Snake (Lycodon aulicus capucinus) appears to be moving further into the rainforest, and grass skinks (Lygosoma bowringii) have recently been seen on the fringe of the Park rainforest. With the exception of the House Gecko, reptiles on Christmas Island are generally very hard to find.

Turtle tracks on Dolly Beach

As for marine reptiles, turtles are not an uncommon sight swimming in the clear blue waters around Christmas Island. For those not keen in getting wet, Green and Hawksbill Turtles are known to lay their eggs on Dolly and Greta beaches.

Butterflies, Insects and Invertebrates

Don’t forget to pack along your macro lens as well. The inventory of invertebrate fauna, which has several hundred collected specimens still awaiting identification, has described 14 snails, several butterflies (28 species as of 2006), some 70 moths, 90 beetles, 30 spiders, one scorpion, five false scorpions and one amphilicid. There are a number of introduced insects including the Honey Bee, a centipede species, a cockroach species, two termite species, two fruit fly species, several species of spiders, and the giant African snail. 53 species of ants have been introduced to the island, which is probably more than any other island in the world. The most concerning of these is the Yellow Crazy Ants (Anoplolepis gracilipes) which are originally from Africa. Since 1997, the population of the Yellow Crazy Ant has exploded and has formed multi-queened super-colonies at several locations on the Island. This very aggressive insect has cause much devastation to the wildlife of the island. Their formic acid spray is capable of overpowering sizeable creatures like reptiles and Robber Crabs, and has been estimated to have killed 10-20 million Christmas Island Red Crabs since.

Golden orb web spider

Marine Life

Christmas Island offers some of the best scuba diving experiences in the world. The island is surrounded by a narrow tropical reef, which supports a rich array of marine life, including hundreds of species of tropical fish and many varieties of unspoiled coral. Not far beyond, the reef plunges into a bottomless abyss. Rises dramatically from the edge of the Java Trench, the deepest point in the Indian Ocean, the waters around Christmas Island provides endless kilometres of spectacular wall diving. Pelagics like rainbow runner, trevally & tuna cruise along the walls and the occasional shark comes up for a curious look. The northern coast in particular boasts some of the most unspoiled corals in the world such as Acropora & plate corals which play host to a wide variety of small tropical species such as surgeon fish, wrasse, butterfly fish, gobies, anemones, eels and many others which are a photographer’s delight. Coinciding with the Red crab migration, Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) sightings are common in the waters just off the island. There are a number of dive operators on the Island. Snorkelling equipment can also be hired for who cannot dive. Contact the Christmas Island Tourism Association (cita@christmas.net.au) for more details.

General Information

Where to Stay

There are limited options on the island for accommodation, and with only about a maximum of 100 rooms available on the island at any time, it is wise to book your accommodations well in advance during the peak tourist season. There is also no budget or backpackers accommodation for those on a shoestring budget. The lodges are generally small but have a very relaxed atmosphere to them. Some rooms come with the basics (e.g. a microwave and fridge) to help you with your own light meals. Room prices will range from A$90-130. There are also self-contained holiday cabins for let.

Contact the Christmas Island Tourism Association for more details and bookings.

Getting Around

There is a good network of roads on the island. Car hire is good way to get around the island, and the unsealed tracks are manageable even by off-road novices. There are a handful of taxis (Island Taxi: +61439215644) on the island too but this is not really very practical for exploring the island. There is no public bus service on the island. Bicycle hire is available from the Visitor’s Centre but the very hilly nature of the island, and the heavy loads carried by a photographer makes this means of transport rather impractical.

4wd track on Christmas Island

Both two-wheel and four- drive wheel (usually a Toyota Rav 4) vehicles available from Kiat Car Hire (+61891648665, +61439215678), and Soong Car Rental (+61891648191, +61439215889). Vehicle numbers are limited and hence pre-booking is highly recommended. Car hire can also be booked through the Christmas Island Tourism Association. There is only one petrol station on the island with limited operating hours.

When to go

If its the crab migration you are primarily aiming for, then Nov-Dec* is the best time to go; this would also be a good time for Whale sharks too. January to July would be good for breeding seabirds. October to March is the main bird migration period, is good for twitchers looking to tick off Asian vagrants from their Australian checklist.

Calendar for Bird Breeding on Christmas Island

Crab migration is triggered by the arrival of the rains, and this can vary from year to year. The expected Nov-Dec 2007 crab migration was short-lived due to poor rainfall then, and the main migration season was delayed to January 2008.

Annual Bird & Nature Week

An annual event that promotes bird and nature conservation, with lots of hands on involvement by participants to assist scientists in their research. Daily field trips and talks. Click here [2] for further information on Bird Week 2008, 5 – 11 September 2008.

Costs

The currency used is the Australian Dollar. Cost of living on the island is comparable to mainland Australia, and in some cases more expensive due to its remote location. It is a duty free island though, so no GST payable. The following gives you an idea of what things costs on the island:

• Accommodation AUD 85-125

• Diving AUD 140 for two dives or snorkelling tour 25-35AUD/2-3 hours

• Bike rental AUD 55 per week or car rental (Toyota Rav4) AUD75/day

• Meals AUD 10-30 per meal

• Coke AUD 1.35 or beer AUD 1.70

What else to bring (besides your camera)

There are no ATMs on the island. So make sure you bring Australian cash. The only bank is Westpac (Mon – Fri: 0900 – 1500 hrs) has full banking services including foreign exchange, but no ATM service. EFTPOS card owners can opt for cash-back at the supermarket when you buy goods above AUD25.

An adapter for Australian power sockets would be useful; although some of the lodges and Visitor’s Centre have adapters you could borrow. A power gang would be a good idea for charging those multiple batteries, powering the laptop, etc.

Mosquito repellent is crucial during the wet season (Dec – Apr) – there are lots of very mean mosquitoes everywhere

Snacks and food items – the supermarkets have limited stock, so do pack energy bars or to cater for any special dietary requirements. But do check with the Australian customs website for information on what food items are not allowed in (e.g., dairy products). Custom is very strict and all luggage is checked when you land.

Also do remember your weight allowance on flights is usually 20 kg. This may add a considerable cost if you are bringing in camera and diving gear.

Facilities

There are a number of cafes, coffee shops and restaurants on the island, offering a variety of cuisines. Some of the main ones include:

• Malay Club (Kampong Melayu) – a great place to meet local Malays and enjoy a roti prata or nasi lemak.

• Noodle House (The Settlement) – open only for lunch.

• Emayson’s Café (CI Recreation Club, near airport) – snacks all day, everyday till 5 pm.

• Yoong Chong (Poon Saan) – Chinese restaurant open for lunch and dinner, close on Tuesdays. Food is so-so only.

• Season’s Palace (Poon Saan) – Chinese restaurant open for dinner, close on Mondays. Place looks a little dingy looking but serves good food!

• Poon Su Coffee Shop (Poon Saan) – yup, a traditional Chinese kopi tiam on Christmas Island! Breakfast and brunch. Below Season’s Palace Very popular for with the locals and all food usually sold out by 11 am.

• Golden Bosun Tavern (The Settlement) – opens daily and caters for European tastes – Island-style dining. Caters for lunch & dinner daily. A brunch menu is on Sundays.

• Rumah Tinggi Tavern & Restaurant (The Settlement) – opens daily for dinner. European meals.

• Seaview Fish & Chips (Poon Saan) – below Season’s Palace and open on evenings only.

• Waterfall Restaurant (CI Resort) – modern European cuisine with diverse a-la-carte menu. Breakfast and dinner. Close on Tuesdays.

Groceries can be bought from the local supermarket in The Settlement or from small grocery shops in Poon Saan, Drumsite and Kampong. There are several picnic and barbeque venues (free gas usage) around the island where you may cook for yourself or take a picnic basket. Supplies can be bought at the local grocery stores or supermarket.

Halal BBQ at Flying Fish Cove

There is a branch of the Westpac bank on the island and a Post Office.

Visas & Permits

As you are travelling into Australia territory, an Australia Visitor’s Visa is needed. Please refer to the Australian Immigration official website [3]. You do not need a permit to enter the National Park areas, but camping is not allowed within the park. You can get permission to camp on its beaches though.

How to get there

Twice weekly flights operated by National Jet Systems [4] depart from Perth, Western Australia to Cocos and Christmas Islands. Austasia Airlines (Using SilkAir A320 Charter) operate a weekly (Thursdays) return charter flight from Singapore to Christmas Island. Australian Indian Ocean Territories Airlines (Using Malaysian Airlines 737-400 Charter) will operate a weekly (Mondays) return charter flight from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (operations starts from 2 June 2008) Current flight information for flights to and from Christmas Island is as follows:

Singapore – Christmas Island

Published fares are in Australian Dollars, and excludes taxes (AUD 231)

For flights and Christmas Island packages from Singapore :

Eco Adventures Worldwide (Pte) Ltd

Phone : +65 6538 4441, + 65 65380630 Fax : + 65 98508830 Email: eaw@eaw.com.sg Web: www.adventures.com.sg/CI/

Perth – Christmas & Cocos Islands

Due to the introduction of daylight saving in Western Australia, the following schedule will be applicable for the period 26 March 2008 – 28 October 2008.

Please contact the Christmas Island Tourism Association, National Jet Systems, or your Travel Agent for details of additional Saturday services

The following schedule will be applicable for the period 29 October 2008 – to the end of daylight saving 2009.

Please contact the Christmas Island Tourism Association, National Jet Systems, or your Travel Agent for details of additional Saturday services

Published fares are in Australian Dollars, and excludes taxes

Kuala Lumpur – Christmas Island

Published fares are in Australian Dollars, and excludes taxes

For flights and Christmas Island packages from Malaysia :

Travel Exchange Christmas Island Phone : + 61 (0)8 9164 7096 Fax : + 61 (0)8 9164 7660 Email : enquiries@travelxch.com.cx

Click here for a list of local travel agents [5]

Guide Books & Maps

The best visitor’s guide book on Christmas Island is The Essential Christmas Island Travel Guide by Beth & Shaun Tierney (ISBN 978-0-646-47591-2). This can be purchased from the Visitor’s Centre, or you can mail order the book from them. There are a number of other very good publications sold at the Visitor’s Centre. You can find out more here. [6]

Parks Australia North, the management authority for Christmas Island National Park published a number of excellent free brochures that is very informative. You can get physical copies of the brochures from the Visitor’s Centre or you can download them from the internet: Christmas Island National Park – Wildlife Brochures [7]

The recommended bird guide book for Christmas Island is The Christmas and Cocos-Keeling Islands Birding Guide originally written by Ghes Valenzuela & David James, and updated by Lisa Preston in 2008. This book is available at the Visitor’s Centre and at the office of Island Explorer Holidays.

Useful Links

Official Christmas Island Tourism Association Website [8]

Wildasia.Net Destination Guide to Christmas Island [9]

Christmas Island National Park Website [10]

ABC.net Guide to Christmas Island [11]

BirdLife International – Endemic Bird Areas – Factsheet on Christmas Island [12]

Wikipedia – Christmas Island [13]

Useful Online Articles

Birding Christmas Island: Boobies, Noddys and Other Feathered Delights by LIM KIM CHYE [14]

Christmas Island: Nature’s Oceanic Oasis by RICK GREGORY [15]

Author: Eric S. J. Tan Date: April 2008 Email: sohnjoo@gmail.com Website: http://www.mountainsbeyond.org/

___________________above article, photographs contributed and copyright of MountainMan

Author: wilis

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of wilis

Introduction

I was inspired to make the trip to Japan after seeing wonderful images made by Starrynight during his trip 2 years back. Please refer to his trip report found at the article section.

Unable to take leave from work earlier, I could only set off from Singapore on 15 March, fully aware its at the tail end of Japan winter, and just 1 week shy from official first day of spring celebration in Japan, which was 20 March. It was a race against time, and I could only hope the winter could hold on a little longer. For the trip I set 3 objectives which I hope to achieve.

1. To photograph the mating dance of the Japanese cranes (Tanchos);

2. To photograph the wintering 2,000 Steller’s sea eagle in Rausu;

3. To photograph the snow monkey at Jigokudani Yaen-Koen.

So how did the trip turn out? More on that at the later part of the report. For now, let’s get into some basic logistics and itinerary for the trip.

Itinerary

The itinerary below was a drastic change to my original itinerary:

Day 1: Departure Singapore- Tokyo Narita

Day 2: Tokyo sightseeing

Day 3: Tokyo Haneda- Kushiro in Hokkaido. Drive to Nemuro

Day 4: Nemuro to Rausu

Day 5: Rausu to Kushiro

Day 6: Lake Kussharo at Akan National Park. Flight back to Tokyo Haneda

Day 7: Tokyo sightseeing

Day 8: Nagano to Jugokudani Yaen-Koen for snow monkeys

Day 9: Birding Tokyo parks in the morning, flight back to Singapore late afternoon

Current exchange rate S$1= 72 Yen.

Whopper swan at frozen Lake Fuhren

Transport

a) Flight

JAL Singapore to Tokyo Narita, and domestic flight from Tokyo Haneda to Kushiro for S$1.5k. Flight time 6.5hours for Spore-Tokyo, and 1.5hrs for Tokyo-Kushiro.

Booked thru JTB at Takashimaya, Singapore

b) Car rental

For Hokkaido, car rental from Tocoo. 5 days cost about 23,000 Yen ($320) for Nissan 4WD equipped with GPS and snow tyres. However, I cut short my stay in Hokkaido from 5days to 4 days, and Tocoo gladly refunded 2,600Yen for the shorter duration, which was totally unexpected and something I never encountered before. Two thumbs up and goes to show the excellent customer care in Japan.

Website: http://www2.tocoo.jp/?file=rentcar_inbound/main

c) Train and buses

Japan probably has the most efficient transportation system in the world, and this clearly reflected in their railway system. Although the numerous train lines run by multiple companies can be confusing for the uninformed and most tourists, they get you pretty much to anywhere you want to go. For sightseeing in Tokyo, I bought daily unlimited pass which cost 700Yen.

Airport limousine costs 3000 Yen per person from Tokyo Narita to key hotels and train stations in Tokyo.

To get to the snow monkey (Jigokudani Yaen-Koen) to Nagano:

1. Take Asama Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo to Nagano (1 ¾ hrs) 16,000 Yen return.

2. From Nagano station, you have 2 options. The easier one is the direct bus from Nagano Station to Kanbayashi Onsen (45minutes, 1300 Yen one way). The longer way would be take JR express train from Nagano to Yukadani station (1200 Yen one way) and then by a short taxi or bus to Kanbayashi Onsen. I used the direct bus as it was obviously the easier way and more frequent.

3. From Kanbayashi Onsen, it’s a 1.6km trek to the entrance of Jigokudani Yaen-Koen.
I visited 2 parks in downtown Tokyo in the morning for the last day, one is Meiji-Jingu Shrine next to popular shopping Harajuku Station, and the other one is Kyu Shiba Rikyu Garden next to Hamamatsucho station. The problem with the parks in Tokyo is they’re gated and only open from 9am-5pm, which is way pass optimal photography time considering the sun rises by 6am.

Visa and equipment

Visa

Singaporean and most other developed countries do not require visa. For myself, I need to apply for single-entry visa which costs $41 (3 days processing)

Equipment

List of equipments that I carry

1. 2x Canon 1DMk2

2. Canon 600mm F4 IS

3. Canon 300mm F2.8 IS

4. Canon 70-200mm F4

5. Canon 17-40mm F4

6. Canon 1.4x TC

7. Kenko extension tube

8. Canon 580EX Flash

9. Gitzo 3530lsv tripod

10. Wimberley Gimbal Head II

11. IBM x31 notebook (crashed in Japan)

12. Buffalo 120GB portable hard disk

Accomodation

1) Haneda Excel Tokyu (Pan Pacific) located at Haneda Aiport Terminal 2 to facilitate easy transfer to Kushiro the next day. Booked thru www.zuji.com.sg S$250

2) Nemuro: Nemuro East Harbor Hotel 10,600 Yen double room including parking.

1-26 Kowa-cho, Nemuro-shi, Hokkaido Phone:+81-153-24-1515 Fax:+81-153-24-0835

3) Rausu: Hotel Sakaeya at Rausu town. 10,500 Yen for double room.

Website: http://www1.ocn.ne.jp/~skey2171/

Other info on accomodations in Rausu

http://www.shiretoko.or.jp/en/travel/hotel_in_rausu/

4) Kushiro: Toyoko Inn at Kushiro City 7,500 Yen for double room. 500Yen for parking.

Affordable chain hotels available all over Japan. Clean and comfortable room. Website: http://www.toyoko-inn.com/

5) Tokyo: Shinjuku Washington Hotel. 15,000Yen for double room.

15 minutes walk from Shinjuku station. Convenient with direct airport limousine to Haneda and Narita airport, but the room was stuffy with very small window. Website: http://www.wh-rsv.com/english/index.html

Tips for Hokkaido

Accommodation

For Kushiro, some photographers would prefer to stay at places nearer to the crane areas in Akan or Tsurui. Although location wise is very convenient (5-10 minutes drive to Japanese cranes) but they are rather pricey. Eg. Hotel Taito quoted us 19,000Yen for double room compared to Toyoko Inn at Kushiro city (40minutes drive away) for 7,500 Yen only. Toyoko Inn being right smack in the city provides easy access to food and shopping at night and we don’t mind the extra 30minutes drive in the morning.

Similarly for Nemuro and Rausu, we noticed that Minshuku and Inn that specially caters to birders and photographers normally charge more (albeit with dinner thrown in). For Nemuro and Rausu, one can stay at better grade accommodation in town for less the price.

Driving in Hokkaido

Road condition is excellent. Even in the height and intense winter time, the major roads are kept clear of snows. Major road signs come in English and in remote Hokkaido, finding your way thru the major roads are pretty straightforward.

For ease of mind, rent the GPS set as well. It can get you to almost all places if you know the telephone numbers or GPS coordinates.

Eg. If I want to go to Akan Crane centre for the Japanese crane, I will just get the centre’s telephone number in advance, and the GPS will direct me there.

Driving distance:

1. Kushiro airport to Tsurui or Akan crane centre: approx 20-25km

2. Kushiro airport to Kushiro city: approx 14km

3. Kushiro to Lake Kussharo (Akan Nat’l Park): approx 70km or 1hour

4. Kushiro to Nemuro: 120km

5. Nemuro to Rausu: 140km

For driving in Japan, one needs international driving license, which can be obtained on the spot at Automobile Association of Singapore for $20 and valid for one year. Website: http://www.aas.com.sg/

Where to land in Hokkaido

Hokkaido is a big island with 14 airports (yes, not a typo error!) Most sightseeing tourists would land at Sapporo or Hakodate. Hoewever, most birders will choose to land at Kushiro. If flights to Kushiro are fully-booked, you can also choose to land at Nakashibetsu or Memanbetsu.

Airlines plying these airports are JAL and ANA, as well as budget airlines Air Do and Skymark.

Book tickets early

Discount air tickets for domestic leg are normally offered to those:

1. flying JAL or ANA or their associated One World airlines to Japan.

2. purchase their tickets minimum 1 or 2 mths in advance.

Daily highlights

Day 1 & 2 Singapore- Tokyo

Uneventful flight to Tokyo Narita, departing at 11.30pm on Day 1 and arriving at 7am on Day 2. As my accommodation is at Haneda domestic airport, I took an airport limousine from Narita to Haneda (70 minutes, 3000Yen per pax). We spent the remaining day sightseeing the shopping and entertainment district of Shinjuku and Shibuya.

Day 3 Kushiro

Took 7.50am flight from Haneda to Kushiro (flight time approx 1.5hrs), and met at the airport by Tocoo car rental representative and driven to the office to pick up my rental car. The first reality bites kick in at the lack of snow around Kushiro and my worst nightmare was confirmed by the representative, “the snow has melted at Kushiro!” He said.

Japanese Cranes at Tsurui. just 3 weeks earlier the grounds were covered with snow

After brief explanation on the GPS usage, I was quick on the way to Tsurui and true enough, the famous tsurui feeding area has no single sign of snow and only a handful of cranes left, with most have already headed to the marsh to breed.

I was supposed to stay at Kushiro for the night. By 3.30pm I realized my first objectives have probably gone down the drain, I made radical change of plan and decided to drive direct to Nemuro, 120km away. It was passed 8pm when I reach Nemuro and decided to stay overnight at Nemuro East Harbor Hotel.

Day 4 Nemuro- Rausu

Start the day at 5am and was partly relieved to see the partially frozen Lake Fuhren. Birds sighted here included the swans, ducks, white-tailed sea-eagle a few pairs of Japanese cranes and deers.

Day 4 was quite a productive day as we drive up highway 243 and 244 by the coast up to Rausu, I managed to pick up a couple more lifers with varieties of ducks, black kites and gulls as well as my first sight of a single Steller Sea Eagle some 200m away.

female northern pintail, route 244 to Rausu

To approach the eagle I have to drive off-track, I decided against it as the chance of getting stuck in the muddy track was pretty high. I thought why risk getting stuck since it will be easy meat getting the Steller’s at Rausu.

I was wrong. I arrived at Rausu at 4pm expecting to see hundreds of Steller’s Sea Eagle and was greeted with none. A quick checked with the locals confirmed my biggest nightmare of the trip, the eagles have returned to Siberia and only a very small numbers are left behind. I was 3 weeks late!!

Rausu is the town at Shiretoko Peninsula, a world heritage site. In winter one can see the ice drift that came down from Siberia, with 2000 strong Steller’s sea eagle, and in Spring the bears come out from hibernation to catch the salmons. So I was in a neither here nor there situation, too late for winter, too early for spring.

The coast of Rausu are littered with many gulls and Harlequin ducks. But these little cuties are very skittish and approaching them proved a great challenge. Consolation of the day were pretty cooperative deers and a lone juvenile white-tailed sea-eagle posing on an ice drift some 25m away.

Food after dark is quite a challenge in the small town of Rausu. We resorted to eating instant noodles, a real insult to injury hehe.

Sika deers of Shiretoko Peninsula

Day 5 Rausu- Kushiro

A very foggy early morning and I drove along the coast up the Shiretoko peninsula. It was eerily quiet as the fishing village appeared abandoned during the harsh winter months as the thick ice drift will not be penetrable. We’re the only car on the road.

In this most unpredictable situation, I had my only encounter with Red fox of Hokkaido. But again luck was not on my side as I have not mounted my lens and was scrambling away once I realize it was a fox by the road. By the time I was ready, the fox has gone behind the fence.

No point crying over spilled milk and realizing another trip at better time is called for, I decided to call off my planned 3 nights stay at Rausu and drove 260kms back to Kushiro. Overnight at Toyoko-Inn at Kushiro City.

Day 6- Kushiro- Tokyo

Early morning checked out Ottawa Bridge near Tsurui but only encountered 2 cranes that immediately flew away as I came down from the car. Ottawa bridge is a well-known spot for Japanese crane in the early morning as they’re roosting at the river and the early morning mist provides a surreal photographic opportunity.

No luck, drove a further 50km up to Lake Kussharo, a picturesque lake which is part of Akan National Park. Swans are friendly and I managed to get a couple more lifers, including a close encounter with the greater spotted woodpecker.

After spending half day birding at Lake Kussharo, decided to cut short my stay in Hokkaido and made arrangement with JAL to bring forward my flight back to Tokyo. It was easy as the flight we took was almost empty, less than 30passengers on an Airbus 300.

The most unexpected gesture was when we returned our car to the car rental company, they actually refunded us the unused portion of the car rental. This is customer service at its best! So Tocoo and its associated rental companies are highly recommended!.

Day 7 Tokyo

Spend the day sightseeing.

Day 8 Nagano to Jigokundani National Park

Jigokudani means Hell’s valley in Japanese, but it is a paradise for the snow monkeys. They are the northernmost wild population of non-human primates in the world. In winter, the snow monkeys enjoy dipping in the hot onsen at the park to keep warm. It’s a photographer’s heaven as the antics and interaction of the monkeys made for good photographs. At times their behaviours are so similar to humans it can put a smile on your face.

For more info: http://www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp/english/top/english.html

After the 2 disappointments at Hokkaido, I didn’t put high hopes on the snow monkey. To have a more impact-full photographs, the snow has to be there and I’m not hopeful it was the case. But to my delight there’re still patches of snow here and there which helps to bring the mood out.

snow monkey of Jigokudani Yaen-Koen

All in I spent close to 4 hours photographing them before rushing down to catch the last direct bus back to Nagano for my 7pm bullet train ride back to Tokyo.

Day 9 Birding Tokyo parks

I spent 1 hour each at 2 of Tokyo’s park.

1. Kyu Shiba Rikyu Garden next to Hamamatsu-cho train station. Entrance 150Yen

2. Meiji-Jingu Shrine inside Yoyogi park next to Harajuku station. Entrance 500Yen.

Birds seen and photographed are great tits, pintails and ducks, starlings, wagtails, gulls and daurian redstart. The only problem I mentioned earlier is the parks only opens at 9am daily, way past the prime photography hours.

References

Trip reports

1. By Richard Klim http://www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=644

2. By Ian Merril http://www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=1131

Books

A very important book that most birders visiting Japan seem to carry:

A Birdwatcher’s Guide to Japan by Mark Brazil which can be purchased from Amazon.

Info Site

1. Good site that has plenty of information

http://www.japan-guide.com/

2. Tokyo Parks.

For list of tokyo parks. If there’s pond on the park, chances are you can see a duck or two.

http://www.tokyo-park.or.jp/english/

3. Hokkaido

Drift ice information in winter. Satellite updates daily during winter.

http://www1.kaiho.mlit.go.jp/KAN1/drift_ice/eng.html

4. Info on Kushiro and webcam of the crane in winter

http://www.kushiro.com/

5. Nagano

Jigokudani Yaen-Koen for snow monkey

http://www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp/english/top/english.html
___________________above article, photographs contributed and copyright of William Susanto

Author & Editor

Author: TSWong

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of TSWong

Location and Geographical significance

Sabah (used to be called North Borneo)lies on the northern part of Borneo Island.

Borneo has a land area of 746,337 square kilometers. Politically it is divided into three countries; Malaysia, Indonesia and the Brunei.

The land areas of each political division are as follows:

Sabah 76,115 Sq. M Sarawak 124,968 Brunei 5,765 Kalimantan 539,489

The most significant birding state in Borneo is Sabah, despite it covers slightly more than ten percent of the Borneo Island. It is the site of Mt. Kinabalu (4,095 m), the highest mountain in South East Asia, few other peaks on the island exceed 3,000 m, and indeed only 6% of the whole island is above 1,000 m above sea level. Sabah features some of the most diverse and spectacular forests in the world (Whitmore 1984a). As a result, Sabah has an unusually rich avifauna, which has been attracting ornithologists and bird watchers since the State’s first natural history was published in 1855 by Motley and Dillwyn.

Diversity of Sabah’s Birds

Borneo has about 622 species of birds, of which 434 are known or thought to breed, and 39 are endemic (Smythies 2000). Of these, Sabah has about 526 well documented species, of which about 395 are residents, 35 are Bornean endemics, and 4 are Sabah endemics. Another 51 species have been recorded in Sabah, but are unconfirmed.

The endemic bird species of Borneo

Mountain Serpent Eagle (Spilornis kinabaluensis)

White-fronted Falconet (Microhierax latifrons)+

Dulit Partridge (Rhizothera dulitensis)?

Red-breasted Partridge (Arborophila hyperythra)

Crimson-headed Partridge (Haernatortyx sanguiniceps)

Bulwer’s Pheasant (Lophura bulweri)

Bornean Peacock Pheasant (Polyplectron schleiermacheri)

Bornean Ground Cuckoo (Carpococcyx radiatus)

Dulit Frogmouth (Batrachostornush artertl)?

Whitehead’s Trogon (Harpacres whiteheadi)

Golden-naped Barbet (Megalaima pulcherrima)

Mountain Barbet (Megalaima rnonticola)

Bornean Barbet (Megalaima exirnia)

Hose’s Broadbill (Calyptomena hosii)

Whitehead’s Broadbill (Calyptomena whiteheadi)

Blue-banded Pitta (Pitta arquata)

Black-and-crimson Pitta (Pitta ussher)+

Blue-headed Pitha (Pitta baudii)

White-crowned Shama (Copsychus stricklandii)+

Everett’s Thrush (Zoothera everetti)

Fruithunter (Chlarnydochaera jefferyi)

Black-browed Babbler (Malacocincla perspicillaturn)?

Bornean Wren Babbler (Ptilocichla leucogramrnica)

Black-throated Wren Babbler (Napothera atrigularis)

Mountain Wren Babbler (Napothera crassa)

Chestnut-crested Yuhina (Yuhina everetti)

Bornean Stubtail (Urosphena whiteheadi)

Friendly Bush Warbler (Bradypterus accentor)+

Bornean Blue Flycatcher (Cyornis superbus)

Bornean Whistler (Pachycephala hypoxantha)

Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker (Prionochilus xanthopygius)

Black-sided Flowerpecker (Dicaeurn rnonticolurn)

Whitehead’s Spiderhunter (Arachnothera juliae)

Pygmy White-eye (Oculocincta squarnifrons)

Mountain Black-eye (Chlorocharis erniliae)

Bornean Bristlehead (Pityriasis gyrnnocephala)

Dusky Munia (Lonchura fuscans)

Black Oriole (Oriolus hosii)?

Bornean Treepie (Dendrocitta cinerascens)

+Endemic to Sabah

?Not found in Sabah

Out of the 39 Endemics, 18 species are montane and 11 species are lower-montane (Only 4 species do not occur in Sabah). The number of endemic montane species is so significant that they are the star attractions for birders visiting Sabah,. This has made visiting Kinabalu National Park, which lies above 1500 meters and contain the peak of Mount Kinabalu so significant to a visiting birder.

Parks and Reserves

Sabah has six parks managed by Sabah Parks under the Ministry of Tourism Development, Environment, Science & Technology, they are; Kinabalu Park, Tangku Abdul Rahman Park, Pulau Tiga Park, Tawau Hills Park, Crocker Range Park, and Turtle Islands Marine Park (Pulau Penyu).

These parks cover 245,172 ha of land (ca. 3.3% of Sabah’s land area), plus 20,622 ha of marine waters (Payne 1988a).

Sabah also has five bird sanctuaries: Kota Belud (Tempasuk) and Likas Wetlands on the mainland, and Mantanani, Bohey Dulang, and Sipadan islands. With the exception of Likas Wetlands, these sanctuaries were formed under weak legislation before Sabah’s independence, and are not maintained.

Forest along the Lower Kinabatangan River has been gazetted as a sanctuary, and two wildlife reserves, under the Sabah Forest Department, are present at Kulamba and Tabin. Apart from parks, the only other truly protected and as yet largely undamaged areas of lowland and upland forest are Sepilok Forest Reserve (ca. 4,500 ha), Danum Valley (ca. 43,000 ha), and the Mt. Lotung/Maliau Basin (ca. 39,000 ha).

I would think the name Kinabatangan, Tabin, Maliau, Sepilok, Likas wetlands and Kinabalu Parks sound familiar to those who are interested in Bornean natural history.

Important birding areas in Sabah

For visiting birders to Sabah, the tour operators will usually arrange a visit the Kinabalu Park to bird the montane and submontane species and than to visit a lowland Forest Reserve or Sanctuary to bird the lowland forest birds. They will normally stay for a few days in each stop.

The four most important areas to visit are as follows, these are the areas that have proper facilities for visiting tourists and also provide reasonable chance of seeing the endemic species. The tourists may be treated with some wild animals as well in these resorts as wild animals do occur in these reserves.

a. Kinabalu National Park

b. Danum Valley

b. Lower Kinabatangan

c. Tabin Wildlife Reserve

The not so established birding sites which are not resort orientated but nontheless may provide a few surprises are listed below:

a. Kota Belud

b. Likas Wetlands

c. Sepilok Rainforest discovery centre

d. Crocker Range Park

e. Tawau Hill parks

f. Maliau Basin

g. Kulamba Wildlife Reserve

However, apart form these reserves, there are numerous small forest reserves for parks, water catchements, river riparian reserves etc all over Sabah. These are the play grounds for local birders, sometimes the number of exotic birds located in these tiny forests can be very exciting.

Here is a map showing the location of the parks.

A clickable version with hyperlinked information can be found at [1]

Come meet the locals

Here are a small sample of the lowland birds that I took in Sabah, some of them are endemic and some are race endemic here. I will try to elaborate on the different races shown here.

Don’t forget that most of the Sabah endemics are found on the montane forests, I have none of their pictures as I have yet to go to take their pictures.

Brown Barbet (Calorhamphus fuliginosus tertius)

A race that has the red of the underparts restricted to the chin and throat, and the abdomen more washed with sulphur yellow, occur in North Sarawak and Sabah.

Blue-eared Kingfisher (Alcedo Meninting verreauxi)

A smallish striking kingfisher that can be easily encountered in Lower Kinabatangan, can be found else where but not as common.

Storm’s Stork (Ciconia stormi)

Storm’s Storks circling above Lower Kinabatangan, they are threatened everywhere due to habitat lost.

Oriental Magpie Robin (Copsychus saularis adamsi)

A male bird, of a race that has the belly black and under tail- converts white, occurring in Sabah.

White Fronted Falconet (Microhierax latifrons)

Endemic to North Borneo, similar to Black-thighed Falconet, except the front of the head is white, white spots on tail feathers, and abdomen washed palely with buff rather than with rufous.

Dusky Munia (Lonchura fuscans)

Endemic to Borneo, entirely brownish-black. I read that there is an albino form, but haven’t seen one yet.

White Crowned Shama (Copysychus malabaricus stricklandii)

Endemic to Northern Borneo, exactly like White-rumped Shama, except for a square white patch on the crown. Used to be treated as different species, now re-lumped under malabaricus.

Cream Vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus simplex simplex)

The Cream Vented Bulbuls in Borneo have red eyes, in contrast to the West Malaysian race which have white eyes. The differences between another similar brown bulbul, the Red Eyed Bulbul are the color of the under parts and vent.

Reference

A field Guide to Birds of Borneo, Sumatra, Java, and Bali, JOHN MACKINNON and KAREN PHILLIPPS

The Birds of Borneo, B E SMYTHIES

Ornithology of Sabah: History, Garzetteer, Annotated Checklist and Bibliography, FREDERICK H. SHELDON, ROBERT G. MOYLE, and JODY KENNARD.

___________________above article, photographs contributed and copyright of TSWong