( 蓝翅八色鸫 ) 18 ~ 20.5cm

Author & Editor

Author: nelson khor

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of nelson khor

Introduction

Each year, around the months of May to August, Blue-winged Pitta congregate in an area of fruit plantations in the northern state of Kedah, Perlis and Penang to build their nests and breed. These shy & elusive birds are ground nesters and are easier to observe only during the nesting period. It is thought that they migrate northwards into Thailand with their young after the breeding season and hardly a single Blue-winged Pitta is seen or heard in Kedah, Perlis and Penang outside the nesting months.

During this period they will choose a suitable spot to build their nests and they can be observed hopping all over the ground digging up earthworms and catching other insects and invertebrates. At this time, they are often seen digging up quite a mouthful of worms, crickets, grasshoppers and even the occasional centipede.

Nest Building

They start to gather dried material and fine roots to build their dome shaped nests. Nests are usually right on the ground amongst low scrub & undergrowth but are also observed in the under storey of fruit trees in epiphytic birds’ nest ferns. They are hardly located high up although there were records of nesting up on the tree previously.

The Nest

Nests are usually dome shaped & sheltered with a front facing entrance. Usually 3-4 lightly speckled eggs are laid per nest and male & female birds take turns to incubate & tend to the eggs. When one is quietly sitting in the nest, the other is often easily found perched on a nearby low branch keeping guard or bringing back food. Incubation is thought to take 7-10 days after which dark brown rough haired chicks emerge.

Feeding

Feeding 4 hungry chicks in one nest is more than a full time job for both parents and they usually bring back a lot of food at timely regular intervals. First, they will perch on a low branch nearby and check for threats before diving down into the nest to deliver the meals. At its peak, the return rate for feeding never goes longer than 30 minutes and sometimes both parents return with full mouthfuls of earthworms even on raining days.

Fledging

Being ground nesters, the chicks must mature fast and tend to take on faint adult colorations within a few days. They are encouraged by both parents to fledge much earlier than high nesting birds. From what was observed, perhaps the first sign of this proactive event, both parents will actively tearing away the canopy of the dome nest, revealing and exposing the 3 grown chicks. This action is assumed to be the affirmative action by both parents to force fledging. By now the chicks are capable of short hops and flight to nearby low branches where they remain a few days still depending on both parents for food. After fledging, the chicks with both parents still hang out in the general vicinity of the nest for at least 2 days and after that it, they are presumed, by their conspicuous absence that they all take off on their migration northwards.

Nelson Khor

Website : www.pbase.com/me_photoshots

Tel : 012-4806685

___________________above article, photographs contributed and copyright of nelson khor

Author: Lee Thiah Khee aka LTK

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs are copyright of Lee Thiah Khee

Introduction

Capturing birds in flight is one of the most demanding and challenging task to most avian photographers. I admire wild birds that take wind beneath their wings and never failed to be mesmerized by these gorgeous feathers flying over grassland, mountain ranges or waters. It is my dream to freeze these spectacular moments through my lens.

Common kingfisher diving for fish

You must be wondering how do I manage?
Well, here are some of my ‘secrets’:
For a start, my equipment and set up are nothing fancy but just my faithful old 600mm (occasionally with a loan 800mm) and a camera body.
White-bellied Sea Eagle captured with my faithful companion – my lens and camera body

So how do I do it?

Practice, practice and PRACTISE!

I started off by practicing flight shots in places that I can find co-operative subjects, like at Singapore Botanical Garden where the Lesser Whistling Ducks were most obliging and ‘helpful’. This allowed me to be familiarized with my equipment and set up as well as understanding the subjects’ flight pattern. It is the easiest way for a beginner to master the auto-focus (AF) technique. Many valuable lessons could be learnt this way. A good example is that through these sessions, I can’t help but notice shooting flock of birds in flight is much easier than a single bird.

Camera settings

Aperture priority mode is my favorite setting. I always set it at the maximum aperture to obtain the fastest shuttle speed possible in order to freeze the subject’s movement.

There are few problems that I would always encounter in the field. White skies tend to confuse the camera meter, so usually I had to increase 2/3 or more stop in the exposure than what was metered. If it is a dark colored bird against a bright sky then it is necessary to add another 1/3 to 1/2 stop in the exposure above the meter reading. On the other hand, shooting a light colored bird required a similar decrease of exposure stop. I often like to shoot birds against clear or homogenous background as compared to a messy one. This allowed me to achieve a quicker AF respond.
Classic example of light colored bird with a dark background – Terns

After rounds and rounds of practice and mastered the skills in AF technique, it is time for one to venture out of comfort zone and explore the wilderness.

Field knowledge

In the field, I make an effort to understand the specific subject’s flying pattern before decide what to shoot and how to shoot. I also studied and learnt where they usually hunt, where they perch or even look for their nesting site. These allowed me to better predict the subject’s flying routine and ‘flight schedule’. Then I would settle into the most ideal position where I decide and choose the range of AF distance. This is to prevent the lens from searching ‘blindly’ when the targeted subject appeared.
Barbet approaching its nest

Inevitably, I shoot my subjects in the ‘landscape’ format and ensure the subject would fill up less than 1/2 the frame. This allowed room for the sudden plunge in taking off, opening wings span or sudden change of subject’s direction.
Opsrey took off suddenly from its perch

I don’t practice full burst of maximum frame rate when action occurred. This is because I can’t keep the subject in sight when the viewfinder image is interrupted too frequently every time the mirror flipped up. And when this happened, I could miss out the best action that may follow. Instead I do short burst of triggering at about 4-5 frames when the subject is in ‘position’ on the viewfinder. I am a strong believer of the good old trust in reflex triggering and sound judgment before pressing shuttle when the actions unfold.

The other trick is to compose the shot before the bird appears then trigger when it flies into the frame. I used this trick to capture the Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker recently and it proved to be effective.

These tips are from my personal experience and hence they can be very subjective. Learnt and understand the tricks but these are not hard and fast ‘golden’ rules. Take chances and perseveres, never be disheartened with failures. Till date I myself do not have a 100% success rate and I am still learning something new every day.
Have fun and certainly hope to see more dramatic flight shots from you folks in NPX soon!
___________________above article, photographs contributed and copyright of Lee Thiah Khee

Author & Editor

Author: Starrynight

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>
Photographs and article are copyright of starrynight

Introduction

Interested in wildlife and bird photography? Want to start as soon as possible?

First and fore most, DO NOT rush out to get the expensive long lens unless you do have too much $$$ to spare (In that case, please let me know. I can do with a 600mm.) Ask oneself why one is interested in bird / wildlife photography. It can be a dirty / time consuming / expensive hobby. So to answer the question, best option is to go out and experience with the more season photographers.

Often nature photographer found themselves in the most ‘wild’ situation. In this case, these guys are sitting among dead birds, birds’ dropping, mud and shed feathers.
Ok … now you have decided you like bird / wildlife photography … so what’s next?

Equipment

Canon and Nikon are the 2 system that are commonly used. Both has advantages and disadvantages. Canon claimed to have a faster AF and Nikon has a better colour. Well, this is subjective to a certain extent. It is your choice. But one must know that once you began the purchase, you will be ‘stuck’ with a particular system.

Camera bodies

Actually the entry level SLR is good enough to start. Remember that it is NOT the camera but the person behind counts! What we go for is the cropped factor, AF speed and frame rate. Why? Because the subject can be moving and one may have only a small window of opportunities. Also the subject may be tiny and far away!

Lens

As long as you can afford! The ‘standard’ lens is 500mm or 600mm. Also sigma offers a 300-800mm lens that has canon or Nikon mount. For a start (well, it had been discussed several times), the conclusion drew was 400mm 5.6. Because it is relatively cheap and long enough. But you may want to consider 100-400mm (canon), 300mm 2.8 (because can put TC), 200-400mm (Nikon) etc Do take note though … zoom lens don’t do well with TC.

Discussion on Lens: What lens for bird photography

Price list for canon

Camera Body

http://forums.clubsnap.com/showthread.php?t=184322

Lens

http://forums.clubsnap.com/showthread.php?t=131801

Acessories

http://forums.clubsnap.com/showthread.php?t=154099

Price list for nikon

http://forums.clubsnap.com/showthread.php?t=292045

Support system

Tripod leg and tripod head. Need to get sturdy ones that is appropriate with your camera and lens’ weight. Most uses Gitzo legs and whimberley head for 500mm / 600mm and 300-800mm. It is necessary for long lens.(see long lens technique below)

Website for support system (US based)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/category/8310/General_Accessories_Tripods_Support.html

http://www.naturescapes.net/store/home.php

As you go along, you may develop your own style!

Others

There will be a long list …

Camera accessory:

Flash ( as fill in and birds under canopy)

Flash brackets (to minimize red or silver eyes)

Lens protector

Cable release or remote

CF or SD card

Portable hard disk (especially if you are traveling)

Lens cleaning kit

Dry cabinet to fit your big lens

Bags

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150613

Nature / trip equipment:

Binoculars

Blinds

Proper clothings (dull colours or camo)

Proper shoes

GPS system

Website for equipment

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ (camera, lens, tripod etc)

http://www.naturescapes.net/ ( Camera accessories, tripod etc)

http://www.basspro.com( clothings / foot wear etc)

http://www.cabelas.com ( clothings / foot wear etc)

For a better understanding of camo pattern

http://www.naturepixels.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=254

Bird Guide Book

For South East Asia – A field guide to the Birds of South East Asia by Craig Robson

3 major component to a successful pic

Know your subject

Read up on your subject and its’ habitat. Best place to start is at a park where the birds are familiar with human and not so skittish. Some of these are: Jurong bird park, Mandai Orchid Garden, Singapore Botanic Garden, Chinese Garden, Sungeo Buloh Wetland Reserve etc And yes … you will not see a lot of birds etc when you first started. Don’t be discourage … slowly your eyes and mind will open up and you will surely start to ‘see’ them! And … yes … Jurong Bird Park has wild birds too! JBP laso provide a great variety of subject to let you familiarize with your equipment! Last but not least, watch more National Geographic Channel, Discovery Channel and Animal Planet! They are good source of information where you can get close to these birds and animals to know their behaviour.

Occasionally there are few that will be cooperative …

But remember, you are the guest in THEIR home!

Know your environment

Photography is all about light. Knowing the environment allows you to maximize the chance of getting a great shot! Also knowing the environment will allow you to know the birds habitat and hence further understanding their behaviour. For example, knowing tide in SBWR will allow you to get ‘closer’ to the wader. As tide comes in, they will push the waders closer to you when you are in a hide. As it became high tide, the waders will be gone because they can only feed in the mud flats …

Weather / wind forecast of singapore

http://www.ulfp.com/ulfp/mod_page/view.asp?ID=1&COLS=3

Be part of the environment and you will be surprised at the photographic opportunities.

Know your equipment

Understand the capabilities of your equipment and proper long lens technique will get you better pics. It takes some practise and time.

Long lens technique

http://www.naturephotographers.net/ejp0801-1.html http://www.keiko-ni.com/keikosite/eq…lenstech1.html http://keiko-ni.com/keiko/Equipment/…glenstech.html http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic2/336167

Don’t forget to learn about flash technique, mirror lock up and cable release too! (for animals or birds under foliage)

Equipment

DIY Equipment

Locations

Singapore

World

http://www.travellingbirder.com/tripreports/default.php
Approach to subject

Technique

Panning technique

Flash

Histogram

Interpreting your camera’s histogram:

http://www.naturescapes.net/092004/gd0904.htm

Article copyright to Greg Downing and Naturescapes.net

Photo processing

Using Photoshop

Roger’s CS workflow

Using Canon Digital Photo Professional

Canon DPP Part 1

How to post pictures

Printing

http://www.naturepixels.org/mediawiki/index.php/Printing_with_your_Photoshop_CS_and_color_printer

Tips on traveling for bird / wildlife photography

Tips On Overseas Bird Photography Trips http://www.naturepixels.org/mediawiki/index.php/Tips_On_Overseas_Bird_Photography_Trips

Wildlife and Bird photography calendar http://www.naturepixels.org/mediawiki/index.php/Wildlife_and_Bird_photography_calendar

Seen a trap or a poacher?

Report it immediately to NParks Hotline (1800-4717300 / 64685736), AVA (62270670 / 63257349 / 64719996), SPCA (62875355), ACRES (97837782)

BUT the most important of all … bring along a good sense of humour and have fun!
Photographs and article are copyright of starrynight

Author & Editor

Author: nelson khor

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of nelson khor

Introduction

Just sharing my experience on ” capturing kingfisher ” on a lovely perch, clear background and sweet light with food. It may not happen in one day but with this right approach or tip, it will be possible to get the picture you always wanted.

Below is the ” 4W ” (WHAT, HOW, WHEN and WHERE) which I applied for photographing Kingfisher.

WHAT

1. Camouflage Tent ( Not necessary to be camouflage but must not be colorful or in white color )

2. Small chair ( For own comfort, because you might need half a day inside the camp )

3. Long Lens with Camera ( A focal length of 500mm is more that enough. In my situation, it is Canon 500mm + 1.4x )

4, Wire release for Camera ( To get a sharpner image and action shots )

5, Water and food ( Optional but I found it necessary. While waiting for the Kingfisher, I can enjoy my food and drink)

Camouflage Tent with Chair

Camera + 500mm + 1.4TC and wire release

HOW

1. Sun light direction, as show in the picture, prefer the light is from the back, so the bird’s eyes will have the ‘ catch light ‘ without using flash (Refer to drawn orange color line)

2. Prefer 25 feet to 30 feet, this is base on 500mm + 1.4x. Don’t go for too full a frame, may miss out some action shots. (Refer to drawn purple color line)

3. By placing the tripod same height as the perch to get an eye level shot.

4. Finding the background with a single color or without white spot or in bright color. In this case water has the reflection from mangrove trees in the early morning light. (Refer to drawn green color line or picture four)

5. Lovely perch is possible to setup, this case I use the perch as original as those that was already present. If you are setting the perch, the best choice is a branch that is not reflective or white color. (Refer to drawn yellow color line)

6. The Kingfisher (Refer to drawn yellow color line)

Main photo with the tent and drawn lines

Background

WHEN

1. Best is one hour before sunrise, you have to hide before the the light comes up. ( It is also possible in late afternoon too … )

2. I prefer low tide because there are more small fishes which the kingfishers enjoy. This is different as in the case of fishermen because high tide bring more larger fishes.

WHERE

Realised this is the most difficult part, because the lovely place you want might not be the place that Kingfishers prefer. In this situation, I made an observation of several locations where the Kingfishers perfer but decide to choose the location that is favourable to the me as well as the Kingfishers.
After having the “4W”, the following will be the schedule: Plan > Do > Action and wait……

Here are the results from my experience, enjoy ….

Regards,

Nelson Khor

Website : www.pbase.com/me_photoshots

Tel : 012-4806685

___________________above article, photographs contributed and copyright of nelson khor

Author: Ingo

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>
Photographs and article are copyright of Ingo

Part 1. Small calidris wader

A group of small (around 15cm) and compact shorebirds with short legs, with round head and body, most are rather short-necked. Bill form very variable, but generally fairly short and straight. As a result, they are rather cute looking.

Red-necked Stint (common, often in large groups) Little Stint (accidental, but possibly quite regular along the Indian ocean coastline) Long-toed Stint (fairly common, solitary or small groups) Temminck’s Stint (uncommon, solitary or small groups) Spoon-billed Sandpiper (rare, mainly from Gulf of Thailand where only a handful individuals are recorded each winter, mainly solitary or very small groups, flocks are reported from Bangladesh in winter) Broad-billed Sandpiper (uncommon, usually small groups, often mix with Curlew Sandpiper)

Red-necked Stint

This is the most abundant of the small stints in South-East Asia. The upperparts are grey-brown with thin, but well visible dark shafts to the feathers. The head has a weak, but visible supercilum and a white throat, there’s a small brownish-grey line going from the eye to the base of the bill. The underparts are essentially bright white, only the sides of the breast have some washed, usually slightly spotted greyish-brownish markings. Legs and bill are black. Although variable, the bill is always short and fairly stubby, it is slightly broader at the base than at the tip.

Little Stint

In winter it is often very hard to distinguish from the similar Red-necked Stint.

Long-toed Stint

Structure is similar to Red-necked, but somewhat longer-legged, with longer neck and smaller head. In winter plumage, Long-toed Stint looks considerably darker than all the other Stints because the feathers of the upperparts all have large black centers. The neck is dirty brown, the head pattern shows a well visible supercilum. Underparts are white, but the breast is spotted or even streaked with small dark brown dots. The throat itself is pale. Legs are greenish to yellowsh, the bill is essentially black, but close views will reveal a slightly yellow base to the lower mandible.

Long-toed uses a variety of habitat for feeding, but it seems to prefer a little vegetation near its feeding places – it is less commonly found in open saltpans..

Spoon-billed Sandpiper

Best identified by the unique bill-shape. Roosting birds with hidden bill are harder to pick out, but Spoony has also a fairly characteristic face pattern with a dark greyish ‘bandit’s mask’, emphasized by the fact that the hind-neck of Spoon-billed is white.

Temminck’s Stint

Temminck’s Stints look somewhat dull grey overall. Structurally these birds are very similar to Red-necked Stints, but winter-plumaged birds have a uniform dirty greyish upperside with very little pattern, although there are tiny dark shaft streaks to the feathers. Especially the head and neck is uniform greyish and essentially unmarked – there’s a very weak hint of a washed supercilum. However, many bird show quite a prominent thin white or pale buff eye-ring. The underside is two-colored: the breast is uniform greyish, and the belly is pale white.

Temminck’s Stints have light green to orange-yellow legs, and very close views will allow you to see that there’s a hint of yellow at the lower base of the black bill.

Temminck’s Stints are often really solitary, and not in any group of waders, even if such groups are closeby. Nevertheless, they also occasionally mix up with Red-necked or Long-toed Stints.

Broad-billed Sandpipers

Although it is a fairly small calidris sandpiper, it actually resembles the larger calidris in shape. Largest individuals can reac the size of the smallest Curlew Sandpiper which it resembles closely in body structure – but in direct comparison it looks usually a lot smaller than Curlew Sandpiper and closer in size to the small stinits. However, it is slimmer and longer-necked than the other small calidris. Winter plumage of Broad-billed Sandpipers is fairly non-descript, upperparts and underparts ressemble closely those of Red-necked Stint and are of little diagnostic value. However, the head pattern is always more contrasty, Broad-billed has a broad white supercilum and a darkish cap. It then has another fine whitish second supercilum that splits from the thick one near the base of the bill – this is a diagnostic feature of this species, however in very worn birds in late winter this second eye-brow can be so indistinct that it becomes hardly visible. Legs are dark olive to blackish, the bill is essentially black, but close views will reveal that the unde mandible is actually brownish. Bill length is highly variable, but the bill always has a distinctive shape. It is very thick at the base, then quickly narrows to become straight of even width. The tip of the bill droops, making it appear slightly hook-nosed. The bill shape is the most reliable feature to distinguish very worn birds from Curlew Sandpipers.

Broad-billed Sandpipers are never common, but they tend to form small groups that readily associate with other waders, most commonly Curlew Sandpipers. They like to feed in shallow water, they can be readily found in open saltpans or mudflats.

Author: Starrynight

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>
Article is copyright of starrynight

Introduction

I realized that bird photography tour is different from the ‘usual’ holiday. Bird photography tour has its own specific aim and hence special preparations as well as mindset will make a difference.

First and foremost, I will always prepare to enjoy what comes along. Rather than getting upset of what shots I have missed out or what birds I have not seen. This is important.

I would like to share some of my experience:

Setting your goal Every place will have some ‘normal’ birds and some ‘star’ birds. So when I am going for a bird photography trip, I will research on the birds that I want to see in that place. This will form a basis that I work around to plan the trip.

The bird ‘season’ is a single most important factor to consider. To maximize my chance and time, I will also employ a local guide.

I will always be realistic and match my fitness to the destination as well as activities.

Setting the journey Once I settle on the destination, work and home arrangement, I will check out the air route and ticket. I will always consider the airline, route, stop over, country of transit and price. The price often is NOT everything. For example, an overnight stop over air ticket may cost more considering the hotel/land transport as well as the time wasted.

Another example is that budget airline may be cheaper but their luggage weight allowance is small and fussy about overweight. You may end up paying more for excess weight because of the heavy camera equipment.

I use MISA travel sometimes especially for the complex route and not so common destination. ( www.airfares.com.sg) / Tel: 65380318

Nowadays air tickets can be fully booked fairly early (like 2 months ahead!!) This can be frustrating. So what I normally do is that I will book it ASAP and change later.

Setting the stage Next I will research on the season (for clothings n type of birds), climate, weather (for lighting n type of birds), people, language, culture, currency (estimate how much $ to change), electrical voltage (for charging battery) etc. I have a standard checklist that I will normally follow through.

Like I said before, I will engage a local guide to maximize my chance as well as my time. This will also provide a hassle free experience as well as for personal safety (don’t forget you may carry >$10k worth of equipment!!!). This is especially true for area that has high crime rate.

I usually do this by searching on website or through friends recommendation. A few key points to note when searching for guide in the web:

1. Key in ‘bird photography tour’ and the destination. This is because I want to search for photography tour and NOT any holiday or birding tour. Those people who does photography tour will better suit our needs.
2. Engage a local agency. It is always cheaper. For example – don’t waste your time if you are going India and the website is “www.xxyyzz.co.uk”.This agency is from UK and they will need to earn as well.
3. Those ‘photography workshop’ are instructional tour. They can be expensive unless you wanted to learn photographic skills from the tour.
4. Once I found these local agencies, I will email them about the tour and I will always specify that I am a serious amateur photographer. Through corresponding, I will get to know them better and pick one that is most consistent, systematic and responsive to my questions.
5. The agencies will usually wants some deposit if not the full cost before your departure. Check with the local authority or travel association or tourist board if your agency is a registered one with good reputation!

Other preparations

Medical

Vaccinations Prevention is better than cure!! Certain places will require vaccinations and this need to be done at least 2weeks to a month before departure. Tan Tock Seng Hospital (tel 63572222) and Changi hospital ( 6850 3685/ 6850 3333) have traveler’s clinic, not forgetting that some GP give good advice too. Do call up before you turn up in the clinic.

Don’t save on vaccinations … it is important and most of these vaccinations will last a long time i.e. 1 to 10 years!

Medical condition

Understand your medical condition and match your activities. Do consult your usual doctor if uncertain.

Preventive medications

Malaria prophylaxis is essential for some places. One need to take a week before, during the trip and 4 weeks after the trip. There are different types and 1 tablet is about S$3. Do consult GP or traveler’s clinic. However, do bear in mind that malaria tablet is NOT 100%. You will still need to use insect repellent / body cover etc.

Oh.. remember to bring along sun screen as well.

First aid kit

Pack a simple first aid kit. This should include bandages, gauze, antiseptic solution, panadol, charcoal pills (for diarrhea), anti-vomiting, anti-diarrhea, for constipation etc. Ask your GP or doctor friends for help.

Documents

• Photocopy your passport and safe keep it.
• Check if Visa is necessary (can do so with travel agency).
• Exit permit for Singapore males (if needed).
• Your credit card numbers, emergency phones for credit card and family members.
• Driving license (Some places will need an international driving license. You can get it from AA).

Insurance

• Do get travel insurance. If u do travel more than 3 weeks a year, it may be worthwhile getting a full year type. For AIA is about $300 for a year.

Currency

• The Indian foreign exchange shop near to the taxi stand at Parkway Parade gives a not too bad exchange rate. Remember to prepare some loose change for tips. It is almost ‘compulsary’ or ‘cultural’ in certain country, so check before you leave for the country!

• I personally feel that traveler’s cheque is very troublesome. Credit card became my back up. The POSB ATM card (the newer one with all the ‘cirrus’, ‘maestro’ sign) can draw $ from overseas ATM. Just make sure you get a machine that speaks English!

• If I am going on a long trip and carry quite a bit of cash, I will have a belt that has a zip pocket on the reverse side to put away some rolled up $$. Sports connection sells one for S$7 but mine spoilt after 1 trip. I got myself one custom made in India instead.

Equipment

Well, this is the painful and difficult part. I am always torn between the weight issue and possibility of using the equipment issue.

Camera equipment

• Camera and flash

Advisable to bring at least 2. If one plan for a fantastic trip but found the camera spoilt when one arrive in the destination can be suicidal!!

• Batteries

Recommanded to have at least 2 sets of batteries for each camera. Don’t forget the charger and the power socket adaptor (for foreign country).

• Memory card

At least a few GB. Bring a portable storage device if u shooting in raw or on a long trip. I am using PD70X. It is battery operated and fast speed. So far I have no problem with that. One with a 80GB HDD cost about $300 plus (prices are dropping and new models are always turning up).

• Tripod n head

This will need to check in as they are not allow to hand carry onto the plane. Proper protection is needed to prevent any unnecessary damages. Dont make the mistake of ‘try your luck’. If you are turned away just about to board the plane, you end up checking with a hard case cover. Tripod leg will bend or break under heavy weight!!

• Cleaning equipment

Important especially on long trip. Mine consist of a blower, a small painting brush (to brush the external part of camera n lens), and a lens cleaning pen.

• Protective cover

This is not only important for rain protection but also dust. Imagine if you sit on a jeep and chase after a rare bird …. By the time u got the shot, both u and camera will be covered with dust!! And when dust get into little gaps around the equipment, it can be very difficult to clean.

Others

• Equipment protection

I personally like to bring trash bags, zip lock bag (big ones can be bought at Beach road army market), shower caps (Use to cover the camera body and the connection between lens and body when drizzling so that I can still continue to take pics) and plastic wrap. All these are light weight, easy to use, cheap, disposable and DIFFICULT to buy when in the jungle! Also rubber bands may come in handy.

• Personal protection

For rain/cold etc, including rain coat or warm clothing. Certain area although tropical, can be chilly in mountain area. Also ‘quick dry’ material clothing are highly recommended. Usually the branded ones are expensive. ‘Sport Connections’ do have similar ‘quick dry’ clothing but at a cheaper price. You can also can get those quick dry shirts and pants for fishing purpose. Take a look at:

http://www.basspro.com( clothings / foot wear etc)

http://www.cabelas.com ( clothings / foot wear etc)

A pair of good walking shoes is also important.

• Compass n torch light

For navigation purposes.

• Writing material

Especially to fill in immigration card!

• Tool kit or Swiss knife

Remember to put in check in luggage!

• Visual aids

Sun glasses (especially if you plan to drive or destination has snow or hot sun!) and binoculars.

• Dehumifying stuff

Some places are very humid e.g. Costa Rica. I was very nervous about lens getting fungus. So do bring some silica gel beads or even a small ‘hungry hippo’ … Even if it doesn’t help, at least it put your mind at ease!
One piece of advise which I learnt from painful experience. Compartmentalize your things and put it back immediately after you have used it. Losing even something small in the field can spoil your whole trip!

Check List

Here is a little checklist which might be useful

Documents n procedures

1. Tour guide contact details
2. Credit card details and number
3. Change Foreign Currency
4. Exit permit (For NS men)
5. Wife’s permit
6. Air Ticket
7. Copy of passport
8. VISA
9. Travel insurance
10. Emergency contact details
11. Passport
12. Driver license

Medical

1. Vaccinations
2. Hepatitis A
3. Hepatitis B
4. Typhoid
5. Chlorea
6. Tetanus
7. Yellow fever (for Africa)
8. Mosquito repellent
9. First aid kit
10. Medications
11. Sunscreen
12. Vitamins

Personal Items

1. Toiletries (Soap, Shampoo, Toothpaste and Toothbrush)
2. Shaver
3. Clothings (Tops, Pants, Sleeping attire, Underwear, Socks, Rain n warm clothing, Shorts)
4. Hat
5. Slipper
6. Sunglasses
7. Towel
8. Tissue paper / Wet wipes
9. Moisturizer
10. Torchlight
11. Tool kit
12. Small sewing kit
13. Binoculars
14. Writing material
15. Washing detergent
16. Alarm Clock

Camera Equipment

1. Body A (Main body)
2. Body B (Backup body if any)
3. Long lens
4. Shorter lens
5. Wide angle
6. Macro lens
7. Flash
8. Tripod
9. Tripodhead
10. Flash bracket (if any)
11. CF cards
12. Extension cord
13. Remote control
14. Batteries for flash
15. Batteries for body A
16. Batteries for body B
17. Flash extender
18. Charger for battery A
19. Charger for battery B
20. Charger for flash batteries (Usually AA)
21. Storage device + any necessary cables
22. Charger for storage device (if yours is using proprietary batteries)
23. Power point adapter (aka travellers adapter)
24. Lens protective cover
25. Lens rain cover
26. Lens cleaner
27. Brush for external cleaning
28. Dust blower
29. Ziplock bag
30. Dehumidifier
31. Trash bags
32. Bean bag
33. Plastic bags

Other things to take note

1. Hard disc that is battery operated
2. Umbrella plastic bag for tripod legs
3. All battery to be fully charged before departure!

This list is not exhaustive … items will be added as and when when I remember/recall …

When you arrived at the destination, no matter how safe it is, one must not take it for granted. “Low crime is not NO crime” !! Common sense do apply … like lock the car door when one get into car, do not flash your equipment in the city area, do not leave things unattended … and so on …

Last but not least, do bring a good sense of humor! It will take you a long way … Bon voyage
Article is copyright of starrynight

Author: Starrynight

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of starrynight

Introduction

Below is a compilation of places the contributors had been, planning to go or dreaming to be. The guide / tour agencies stated were used by the contributors and found to be reliable. However, contributors bear no responsibilies on the information stated. Members are urged to do their own research and contact the related agencies for details and clarifications. Hope you guys enjoyed it. cheers

Wildlife and Bird Photography Calendar

One interesting website by David Middleton, a professional photographer who stated a calendar for wildlife / bird photography http://www.davidmiddletonphoto.com/newfrm.html

January

Hong Kong

Places: Mai Po Reserve (Nov-Mar)

Birds: Migrants – Waders, Raptors (Black Faced Spoonbills, Aquilas-Spotted, Steppe, Imperial, Pelicans, Red Necked Stint, Spoonbill Sandpiper)

Other information Website: http://www.wwf.org.hk/eng/maipo/ http://www.hkoutdoors.com/hong-kong-…o-birding.html

India

Places: Jim Corbett National Park, about 275kms north of New Delhi Chambal River, 70kms south of Agra Bund Barretta in Bharatpur Kaziranga National Park in Assam

Other information Besides birds, there also other wildlife that are great photographic subjects like the tigers

Guide / Tour Agent Mr Sharad Nature Safari India Pvt Ltd Email: info@naturesafariindia.com Website: www.naturesafariindia.com

Japan, Hokkaido

Birds: – Stellar’s Eagle It nests in northern Siberia and winters in Japan – Japanese Cranes Mating ritual in winter

Other information: Ryuhyo cruises are available from late January to March – to see Stellar’s Eagle

Website: http://www.camacdonald.com/birding/asiajapan.htm http://www.kushiro-kankou.or.jp/engl…anesecrane.htm

Thailand

Birds: – Migratory birds

Guide / Tour Agent: Mr Panuwat Sasirat Email : wildbirdtour@yahoo.com Website: www.wildbirdeco.net

February

India – As above Japan, Hokkaido – As above Thailand – As above

Hong Kong

Places: Mai Po Reserve(Nov-Mar), Tai Po kau (Feb-Apr)

Birds: Tai Po kau – Fork Tailed Sunbird, Orange Bellied Leafbird

Other information website: http://www.hkbws.org.hk/BirdingHongKong/inform/tpk.html

Malaysia, West

Places: Bukit Tinggi, Bukit Rengit, Fraser’s Hill

Birds:- Broadbills

March

Hong Kong

As above

In addition Mar-May (Po Toi) Migrants – Japanese Paradise(long tail), Blue and white FC, Ferruginous, Narcissus, Red-throated, Asian Brown, Grey-streaked, Grey-headed flycatchers.

• Asian Paradise was found at Maipo and Kowloon park
• Hainan Blue was found at Kowloon park

India

As above

Japan, Hokkaido

As above

Malaysia, West

As above

Thailand

As above

Singapore

Birds: – Baya Weavers – Black naped Terns – Little Terns

Other information: http://www.naturepixels.org

April

Hong Kong

Places: Tsim Bei Tsui, Maipo, Po Toi

Birds: Apr-May (Tsim Bei Tsui) – Pied KF nesting Apr-Jun (Maipo) – Black Winged Stilt nesting Apr-August (Maipo, Nearby sea) -Terns nesting :Roseate, Black Naped, Bridled Terns June-Aug: Passing – Caspian, Gull Billed, Aleutian, Greater Crested, Little, Common Terns

Other information: Website http://www.hkbws.org.hk/BirdingHongKong/inform/tbt.html http://www.hkbws.org.hk/BirdingHongKong/inform/pt.html

Malayasia, East

Places: Layang Layang Kinabatangan

Birds: Layang Layang – Terns Kinabatangan – Broadbills / Resident birds

Other information: Website: Layang layang http://www.tracc.org.my/Borneocoast/…pll_birds.html Kinabatangan http://www.wildasia.net/main.cfm?pag…stinationID=16
Guide / Tour Agent: Zainal Abidin Ja’afar & Asnih Etin (Kinabatangan) Email: asnih_etin@hotmail.com

Thailand

Birds:- Broadbills / Resident bird nesting

May

Malaysia, East

As above

Thailand

As above

China

Birds: Migratory birds. Places: Beidaihe and Happy Island

Birds: Migratory birds

Other information: Website http://www.drmartinwilliams.com/beid…daihe-hub.html http://wingsbirds.com/tours/view/155

Costa Rica

Birds: Resplendent Quetzel Nesting, Humming Birds

Other information: Best time is in dry season. However that will mean higher price as tourists swam to the area. 1st week of May is the beginning of wet season but still good for bird and wildlife photography. It is also a heaven for reptiles and frogs.
Guide / Tour Agent: Mr Gregory Basco Foto Verde Tours Website: www.fotoverdetours.com Email: greg@fotoverdetours.com Deep Green Photography Website: www.deepgreenphotography.com Email: gmbasco@deepgreenphotography.com

June

Thailand

Birds:- Pittas

July

Thailand

As above

Alaska

Places: Katmai National Park – For salmon spawning and bears.

Other information: http://gorp.away.com/gorp/resource/u…k/wild_den.htm

New Zealand

Birds: Wrybill, migratory and local birds

Other information: http://osnz.org.nz/links.htm

Guide / Tour Agent: Dr Brent Stephenson PhD (Ornithology) Website: http://www.eco-vista.com and http://www.wrybill-tours.com Email: brent@eco-vista.com or brent@wrybill-tours.com

August

Africa

Places: Masai mara, Baringo, Nakuru, Naivasha. Masai mara for the annual beest migration, Nakuru for the 2 million flamingoes

Guide / Tour Agent: Mr A Bhatt Kenia Tours and Safaris Ltd Web: http://www.keniatours.com Email: kenia@africaonline.co.ke

Alaska

Places: Denali National Park – wildlife

Other information: http://www.nps.gov/dena

September / October

Australia

Places:

• Northern Tropical Australia (includes Darwin and Northern NT, the Kimberley and Northern WA, Cairns and Northern Queensland).

Best time is the end of the dry, just before the wet. Aka September to November. This period is best because most of the waterholes are drying up and thus concentrating the birds in very large numbers in a few permament waterholes making finding the birds much easier. It is also the period when the migrants from the north are arriving. Best sites because of accessibility and infrastructure are: a. Darwin and around b. Cairns and around c. Broome (when Tiger starts flying there at the end of the year). Wynham and Kununurra are excellent places too but getting there would be a pain.

• Perth and SW Australia

Again the best time is towards the end of the year, when the parks are still filled with water. Once past into Jan and Feb, the ponds in the parks would have dried up or the water edge too far for practical shooting. Rottnest is best during the Osprey nesting season – Oct/Nov Penguin Island is best around Christmas (late Dec), when the Penguins are moulting

Other information: There is a book “Birding sites around Perth” by Ron Van Delft. This book is about Aus $20. It gives a good account of types of birds, the sites around Perth. This can be purchase online or at Birds Australia – Western Australian (approx 15mins drive from Perth City). Birds Australia – Western Australian Group 167 Perry Lakes Drive, Floreat WA 6014. Tel: (08) 93837749. Take note that their opening hours is 0930hr to 1230hr on weekdays only. At this centre, there are also numerous pamphlets (free!) on many bird sites.

Website: http://www.rottnestisland.com/en/default.htm http://www.birdswa.iinet.net.au/

New Zealand

As above In addition : Albatross, gulls, few Cormorants species nesting at Taiora Head (Dunedin)

November / December

Australia

As above

Hong Kong

As above

India

As above

Thailand

As above

Christmas Island

Red Crab season

Other information: http://www.environment.gov.au/parks/…mas/index.html http://www.christmas.net.au/parks/bi…mas_island.htm
Photographs and article are copyright of starrynight