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Bird Photography in the Kimberley

2 October 2008 No Comment

Author & Editor

Author: MountainMan aka Dr Eric Tan

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Where is the Kimberley?

99.9% of people would have never heard before of the Kimberley. Located in the north-western most part of Australia, it is one of the most remote parts of the continent. Ironically, the Kimberley is geographically nearer to Singapore than to most of the capital cities of Australia. It is about 2,600 km from Singapore to Broome, but more than 4000 km from Sydney to Broome. Despite it’s proximity to Asia getting to the Kimberley would seem illogical, as one must fly either to Perth (about 2200 km south) or to Darwin (about 2000 km east) before being able to catch a connecting flight to this region.

The Kimberley is huge! At 423,517 square kilometres (163,521 sq mi), this is one sixth the size of Western Australia. or about three times the size of England or comparable to the size of California. This large area is so sparsely populated with an estimated total population of 38,000. There is only one sealed trunk road connecting the western end (Broome) to the eastern end (Kununnura), and the distance between these two towns is in excess of 1000 km!. Hence don’t expect to be able to cover the region in a short few days. The capital town of the Kimberley is Broome, which is on the western end of the region. The other towns of the West Kimberley are Derby (220 km East of Broome), and Fitzroy Crossing (396 km East of Broome). The main town in East Kimberley is Kununurra, and Wyndham (100 km West of Kununurra) is the other much smaller town of the East Kimberley. The small town of Halls Creek (358 km south of Kununurra) would be considered South Kimberley. The North Kimberley is the most remote part of the region with no major towns but only small settlements. Overland access to the north is extremely difficult, as the area is serve only by seasonally passable unsealed tracks.

Escarpment and gorges of the Kimberley

Geography and Climate

The Kimberley is a geographically diverse region. The habitats in the region include tropical rainforest to desert. Much of the region is open woodland and dominated by rugged ranges and escarpments. The West is mainly flat with large expense of tidal mudflats and savanna woodland. The East is well irrigated as the result of the damming of the Ord River for agriculture and hence there are many lakes and water channels in the region. The South being at the edge of the desert is very arid and is mainly of semi-arid savanna and spinifex grassland. The very inaccessible North is very rugged with lots of escarpments and this is where the rainforest is found too. The region enjoys three distinct seasons, the dry (May – Aug), the “build-up” (Sept – Dec), and the wet (Jan – Apr). During the ‘build-up’ and the wet, day-time temperatures are usually in the high 30s or 40s (degree Celsius mind you), and humidity in excess of 90%. Much of the Kimberley becomes inaccessible during the wet as roads are flooded out. The dry is the most comfortable time to visit as day-time temperatures are in the low 30s, but night temperatures can drop to as low as single digit. Most of the roads are open during the dry until the first rain falls. Another natural phenomenon to note about the region is the huge tidal difference. Derby can have a difference of 11 metres between high and low tides, which is the second highest tidal difference in the world.

Where to find birds in the Kimberley?

The Kimberley is one of the best birding regions of Australia, boasting of more than 360 species of birds. It is also one of the regions of Australia where twitchers regularly go to for the chance to see rare migrant birds. Ironically there are only two species of birds that is endemic to the region. Bird checklist of Kimberley Bird Species: http://www.homevalley.com.au/tours-and-activities/kimberley-bird-species.html

West Kimberley

Broome

Broome is one of the birding capitals of Australia. Roebuck Bay of Broome (and 80 Mile Beach of the northern Pilbara) is the main point of entry and exit for millions of wader birds that breed in Siberia that migrates annually to Australia for the Southern hemisphere summer. The best time to witness this spectacular massive number of waders is in September/October when the birds first arrive, or in March/April when the birds gather here again to fatten up before embarking on their long journey back north to Siberia. In addition to the migrating waders from Siberia, Broome is also the summer home for the many migrating Asiatic bird species, and itself boast of being one of the best places to see (and photograph) a large number of resident birds, especially the mangrove species and waterfowls.
Broome Bird Observatory (BBO), Roebuck Bay and Crab Creek Mangrove

Roebuck Bay Mudflats
Roebuck Bay boasts of millions of waders during the migrating season but these may be rather difficult to photograph. The coastal flats where the birds feed are very exposed and approaching the birds can be very challenging. The BBO, located on the shores of Roebuck Bay, is also surrounded by bush land rich with bird life. Accommodations and camping facilities are available at the BBO, and the staff also runs birding tours and courses for a fee. Parts of Roebuck Bay are lined by mangrove, and the best place in the bay to look for mangrove birds is Crab Creek. It is a good idea to wear a pair of rubber boots or dive booties when exploring Crab Creek due to the thick mud, and using a recorded bird-call playback could be useful for attracting the mangrove birds. Crab Creek Road, the access road to the BBO, Roebuck Bay and Crab Creek is an unsealed dry-season road.

Checklist of birds in the Broome and Roebuck region

BBO website: http://www.broomebirdobservatory.com/
Roebuck Plains/Roebuck Station
Here is probably the most reliable place in Australia to see (and photograph) the elusive Yellow Chat. There are two large fresh-water lakes in Roebuck Station, Taylor’s Lagoon and Lake Eda, both being home to a large number of waterfowls, bush birds, and raptors. Roebuck Plains is actually a working cattle station, and hence private property. You will need to get permission to enter this property, and you will need a 4WD to get about. Access is only during the dry, as the tracks become inaccessible during the wet. Roebuck Plains Station contact number: +61 8 9192 1751
Broome Town
The town itself is another great birding location. Town Mangrove (entry is near Matso’s Café and Brewery), Streeter’s Jetty, and Town Beach are some of the most accessible locations to look for mangrove bird species. The town Sewage Ponds is also a great bird watching place for fresh-water fowls, but the facility is fenced and entry prohibited, hence making opportunities for bird photography rather limited. Broome Port and Entrance Point is one of the best places to photograph Ospreys and White-bellied Sea-eagles. A large number of other seabirds are also seen there. The bush land adjacent to Entrance Point is also good for a number of bush species.
Nimalaica Swamp and Barred Creek
About 20 km north of Broome just off the Cape Leveque Road is Nimalaica Swamp. This is one of the best places to find the Mangrove Gerygone, Northern Fantail, and other freshwater fowls. It is also one of the best places to donate blood to the swarms of commando-trained mosquitoes, so go prepared. About 45 km north of Broome is Barred Creek and Cape Boileau. The mangroves lining Barred Creek is the most consistent place to find the Kimberley Flycatcher (Kimberley subspecies of the Lemon-bellied Flycatcher), and cape Boileau is excellent for spotting seabirds such as Brown Bobby, Great Frigatebird and Crested Terns. The access to Nimalaica Swamp, Barred Creek and Cape Boileau is unsealed, and a 4WD is highly recommended.
Dampier Peninsula

Pindan Cliffs of the Dampier Peninsula

Being one of the most picturesque places near Broome, the many quiet and secluded beaches, lagoons and sea coves on the Dampier Peninsula is also great for spotting seabirds (and whales). The main road of the peninsula (Cape Leveque Road) is unsealed and very corrugated for most of its length, and so are the access roads to the various beaches and coves, hence making a trip into this region more for the adventurous with a 4WD, and for those wanting to get great landscape photographic opportunities.

Between Broome and Derby

The 220 km trunk highway connecting Broome and Derby has a few good birding spots.
Taylor’s Lagoon
The unsealed access track to Taylor’s Lagoon (see Roebuck Plains above) is on the right hand side of this highway about 70 km from Broome. Heading towards Derby, on the right hand side of the highway 6.5 km beyond the turnoff to Taylor’s Lagoon is a forested area that is good for Black-tailed Treecreeper, Varied Sitella, and Pardalotes.
Willare Crossing
160 km from Broome the highway crosses the Fitzroy River at Willare. The forested area flanking the Ftizroy River is good for bush birds, especially for cuckoos.

Derby

Derby Jetty

Derby Sewage Ponds and Derby Wetlands
The fenced Derby Sewage Ponds is more for birdwatching as the restricted access into the facility prevents close proximity to the birds and hence limits photographic opportunities. The outflow from the sewage ponds however flows into a swampy area aptly known as the Derby Wetlands. This place is great for photographing waterfowls and waders. The surrounding bush is also great for bush birds.

Munkayarra Pool

20 km out of town (towards Broome) is a permanent freshwater pool that has lots of waterfowls. It is best to visit during the end of the dry and during the ‘build up’, as the large pool shrinks in size and concentrates the large number of birds there.

Fitzroy Crossing

Fitzroy Crossing is 258 km from Derby (396 km from Broome). Being away from the coast, the habitat is quite different from Broome and Derby. There are a number of sandstone and limestone escarpments near Fitzroy Crossing which would be the closest 2WD accessible location to look for escarpment birds like the White-quilled Rock-pigeon and Sandstone Shrike-thrush in the West Kimberley.

Fitzroy River Lodge and Caravan Park

The camping area of Fitzroy River Lodge and Caravan Park is located next to the Fitzroy River and is one of the best place to look for the Black-chinned Honeyeater. Its proximity to the river means that there are a large number of birds to be found there.

The Old Crossing

The banks at the old Fitzroy River crossing are good for photographing riverine birds. The Old Crossing is popular with the local people (swimming and fishing) hence visiting in the early morning before the crowds appear would be highly recommended. Despite the large number of local people swimming here, salt water crocodiles do live in the river here – you have been warned.

Geikie Gorge

Geikie Gorge

25 km north of Fitzroy Crossing is Geikie Gorge. Besides riverine and bush birds, the limestone escarpment here is good for the escarpment birds.

East Kimberley

Kununurra and Wyndham is one wettest (and hottest and most humid) parts of north-western Australia, and the lush grasslands here is home to 9 species of finches (including the Gouldian Finch and Yellow-rumped Mannikin). In addition, the numerous escarpments around these two East Kimberley towns is great for escarpment birds.

Kununurra

Lake Kununurra & Lily Creek Lagoon

This is an artificial lake located at the southern part of the town created by the damming of the Ord River. The lake edge is reed lined in many places and is excellent for photographing reed birds (such as Australian Reed-warbler, Golden-headed Cisticola, crakes and rails) and finches. The best places around the lake for bird photography are Kona Waters Caravan Park, Kimberleyland Caravan Park, and Celebrity Tree Park. Kimberleyland Caravan Park is especially good for photographing very friendly White-browed Crakes. Kona Waters Caravan Park is especially good for photographing the Buff-sided Robin.

Kununurra Golf Course

The trees around the golf course are good for a number of honeyeater and flycatcher species. Buff-sided Robins are also common here. There are a few ponds thick with reeds that are good for reed birds, finches, crakes and bitterns if you are lucky. Be careful of flying golf balls.

Mirima (Hidden Valley) National Park

This is escarpment territory and hence good for escarpment birds. The national park is easily accessible from town but an entry fee is charged. There are many escarpments all around the region that are free, but access to these might not be so easy.

Point Springs Nature Reserve

Waterhole in the East Kimberley

This is a small patch of Kimberley rainforest about 50 km north of Kununurra off Cave Springs Road. This is probably the most accessible rainforest patch in the Kimberley, and a number of rainforest bird species can be found here. The unsealed Cave Springs Road is at the end of Weber Plains Road, and the track to Point Springs Nature Reserve is a very rough 4WD track accessible only in the Dry season.

Wyndham

Wyndham, about 100 km North-west of Kununurra, is the other key birding location of the Kimberley as this is where the Gouldian Finch is most reliably seen and the nearby Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve is home to an incredible number of waterfowls and bushbirds.

Wyndam Town

Right in town is a small park with a small permanent pond known locally as the “Aboriginal Sculptures Park”. Towards the end of the Dry season, many species of birds (including the Gouldian Finch) would flock here to drink. The early morning is the best time to see the Gouldian Finch.

King River Road

Just out of town is the unsealed track that follows the King River towards Moochalabra Dam. The rocky hills on the left of this road is a known nesting area of the Gouldian Finch (March-June), and the springs (such as Sing’s Garden) just off the track is a good place to look for finches (including the Gouldian Finch and Yellow-rumped Mannikin) and honeyeaters (including the White-throated and Black-chinned Honeyeaters), especially towards the end of the Dry season (Aug – Sept).

Marlgu Billabong

This is the most accessible billabong of Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve, and a large number of waterfowl species congregate here all year round. The bush land around the billabong is also good for bush birds. Yellow Chats have been spotted in the plains North-east to the billabong. The access to Marlgu Billabong is unsealed and is closed during the Wet season. A 2WD could be used in the Dry season.

Between Kununurra and Wyndham

The Grotto

This is a spectacular waterhole about 30 km from Wyndham (70 km from Kununurra). In addition to the typical escarpment birds found here, this location is also good for finches. Go there early in the morning before the hoards of tourist arrive.

Creeks along the Highway

The Kununurra – Wyndham Highway passes a number of creeks, and any of these will be good for birds, especially finches and honeyeaters if there is water still present. Along Maggie Creek, a number of isolated pools of water remain right till the end of the Dry season.

South Kimberley

Halls Creek

Spinifex grassland around Halls Creek

About 350 km south of Kununurra and Wyndham is Halls Creek which is located near the edge of the Great Sandy Desert. The habitat here is semi-arid and hence the bird species found here reflect their tolerance to scarcity of water. Halls Creek is one of the best places to find the Grey-fronted Honeyeater in the Kimberley.

Duncan Road

There are a number of waterholes just off the unsealed Duncan Road and these attract a large number of birds especially during the Dry season. Grey-fronted, Black-chinned Honeyeaters, Pictorella Mannikin, Budgerigar, Northern Rosella, Masked and White-browed Woodswallows, Spinifex Pigeon, are some notable species here. Painted Finches can be found around the many rocky hills just off the Duncan Road. A good place to start is 5 km out of Halls Creek where on the left of the road is an abandoned cattle yard with a number of water filled troughs can be found.

Lake Gregory

This large natural lake, about 200 km south of Halls Creek, is on the northern edge of the Great Sandy Desert attracts a large number of waterfowls. However the lake is on Aboriginal Land (hence permits must be obtained for access), and the unsealed access tracks are very rough and confusing.

North Kimberley

This is one of the most picturesque but the most inaccessible area of the Kimberley, and most visitors either fly into or access from the sea via the northern coastline. The unsealed seasonal Gibb River Road provides the main overland access to this region and to the Central Kimberley. A 4WD is crucial for travels in this region.

Unsealed road of the Kimberley

Mitchell Falls

Besides being a place of extreme beauty, this is where both endemic Kimberley species could be found. The Kimberley Honeyeater and the Black Grasswren can be seen along the Mitchell Falls Walking Track, about 1 km from the campsite. The campsite is a good location to find the Partridge Pigeon (blaauwi subspecies), especially the tracks around the helicopter pad and the ranger station.

Track to Port Warrender

There is a small patch of rainforest just off the track to Port Warrender (small hill on the left just as one get’s the first view of the ocean on the Port Warrender Track). The vine thickets here is home to the rainforest birds, including Rainbow Pitta, Green-backed Gerygone, Emerald Dove, Little Shrike-thrush, Spangled Drongo, etc.

Central Kimberley

Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary

Owned by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy, Mornington protects a number of natural Australian habitats and hence a number of rare Australian wildlife. Notable bird species found there include the Purple-crowned Fairywren and the Gouldian Finch. The main campsite is beside a creek and the vegetation flanking the creek is home to the Purple-crowned Fairywren. Ask the very friendly staff and scientists of the Sanctuary on where to best find the Gouldian Finch.

check out their site here [1]

Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary

How to get to the Kimberley?

Both Broome and Kununurra are served by daily domestic flights from Perth and Darwin. Broome being the capital town has the most flights, being operated by Qantas, Virgin Blue, Air North, and Skywest Airlines. Kununurra has a daily flights connecting Perth and Darwin by Air North and Skywest Airlines. There is a direct flight to Derby from Perth by OzJet. Check the respective airline websites for details. Besides flying in, one can choose to travel into the Kimberley by the masochistic way. It’s a gruesome 2230 km overland drive from Perth to Broome, but you do indeed pass through some spectacularly scenic country along the way. Alternatively, the less gruesome drive of 834 km from Darwin to Kununurra might be the best way to get to the East Kimberley, as one will then have the opportunity to visit some excellent birding sites of the Top End (NT) enroute, such as Pine Creek, Katherine National Park, Victoria River, and Timber Creek.