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Nature Photography on Christmas Island

15 April 2008 No Comment

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Author: MountainMan

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Introduction

Christmas Island is a small tropical oceanic island (137 km2) situated in the eastern Indian Ocean, approximately 300 km south of Java, 1300 km south of Singapore, and 1200 km from its nearest point to the Australian Continent. The island remained uninhabited till the late 1800s when humans first settled on the island to exploit its vast phosphate resource. Previously under colonial rule administered from Singapore, the island today is a territory of Australia.

Geology

Christmas Island is the uplifted peak of a huge underwater volcanic mountain, rising steeply some 5000 m from the ocean floor. The highest point on the island is 361 m above sea level. Over the eons, the island has been raised above sea level in stages allowing the wave action to cut new cliffs at each stage, resulting in a series of picturesque terraces and dramatic inland cliffs rising to a central plateau at about 250-300 m. Coral formed over the volcanic core at each stage of the island’s development, providing a thick crust of limestone that now covers the island, and above this is a blanket of phosphate rich soil built up by large colonies of seabirds. The deepest soils occur on the central plateau and the upper terraces. The distribution of plants can be correlated to soil depth and moisture, exposure and distance from the sea. The coastal zone is generally saline with thin soils. The zone immediately behind this is also a harsh habitat for most plants, especially where it faces the prevailing south-easterly winds. Pandanus and salt bush (Scaevola taccada) are typical of places exposed to salt spray. Further inland, the environment becomes more sheltered and lush rainforest develops. The island’s 80-kilometre coastline is an almost continuous sea cliff. In a few places, the cliff gives way to shallow bays with small sand and coral shingle beaches.

Christmas Island coastline

The island is surrounded by a narrow encircling coral reef. There is virtually no coastal shelf, and the sea plummets to a depth of about 500 metres within 200 metres of the shore.

Natural Paradise

Christmas Island has much to offer the avid nature and landscape photographer. The rugged craggy landscape and deep turquoise ocean panoramas offers much photogenic opportunities, in addition to the great fauna and flora heritage of the island. 63% of the island has been gazetted for protection as the Christmas Island National Park. Much of the rest of the island shows scars resulting from more than a century of human exploitation and phosphate mining. In spite of this, much of the wildlife remains intact and could be well seen in and near the settled areas of the island.

Brown Bobby nesting off cliffs at Dolly Beach

Birds

One of the greatest natural attributes on Christmas Island is the birds. Being the only landmass for such a vast distance in the Indian Ocean, Christmas Island is an important refuge for seabirds and migrating birds. The eons of physical isolation also ensured that Christmas Island has a few endemic gems that are not found anywhere else in the world. There are only 23 species of resident birds (including feral or introduced species) on Christmas Island. Though lacking much in diversity, Christmas Island can boast of being home to some of the rarest birds in the world, and how visitors can easily get see and photograph them. Examples of such are the Christmas Island Frigatebird, and Abbott’s Bobby, both of these classified as highly endangered species, only breed on Christmas Island and nowhere else in the world.

Photographing Frigatebirds at LB3

The eons of isolation has enabled a number of other endemics to evolve on the island. The Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon, Christmas Island Hawk-Owl, and Christmas Island White-eye are the three endemic terrestrial birds. There are a number of endemic avian subspecies on Christmas Island too, namely the endemic subspecies of the Brown Goshawk, Island Thrush, Glossy Swiftlet, Emerald Dove, and the yellow morph of the White-tailed Tropicbird (locally referred to as the Golden Bosunbird). In addition to the 23 residential bird species, Christmas Island is temporary refuge for a large number of migrating bird species. Christmas Island is thus a haven for twitchers from Australia trying to “tick off” those rare vagrant Asian birds on the Australian bird list. The bird checklist for Christmas Island can be found here[1]

1. Christmas Island Frigatebird (Fregata adrewsi)

Endemic. Locally common, usually seen soaring on thermals and updrafts near cliffs in the North-Eastern part of the island, together with other frigatebird species. Three known breeding colonies on the island; the inland cliffs at the Chinese Cemetery, the inland cliff at the Golf Course, and the inland cliff below Territory Day Park. The best place to photograph these birds is at the phosphate stockpile area on Phosphate Hill where pools of water accumulate after rains. Frigatebirds (mainly Christmas Island Frigatebird, lesser numbers of Greater Frigatebird, and occasionally the Lesser Frigatebird) would swoop over these temporary pools of water to drink

2 Great Frigatebird (F. minor)

Most common of the 3 frigatebirds. Widespread distribution, usually seen “riding” the updrafts near cliffs. The most accessible roosting and nesting site for the Greater Frigatebird is at Ethel Beach. The best place to photograph these birds is at LB3 where a large pool of fresh water accumulates. Frigatebirds (mainly Greater Frigatebird, lesser numbers of Christmas Island Frigatebird, and occasionally the Lesser Frigatebird) would swoop over water surface to drink.

3 Lesser Frigatebird (F. ariel)

Uncommon but regular visitor to the Island. The smallest of the 3 frigatebird species, it is very hard to spot the very few Lesser Frigatebirds that might be flying amongst the many other frigatebird species. A known small breeding colony is found at the North West Point beyond the new Detention Centre.

4 Brown Booby (Sula leucogaster)

Common, seen in flight around ocean cliffs. Nests on the ground on cliffs ledges around the whole island, especially in places less frequented by people. The most accessible and visible nesting site is Low Point, a limestone terrace between Lily Beach and Ethel Beach. I have found nests where-ever there is a ledge on the cliff wall including Smith Point, cliffs near Dolly Beach, Martin Point, and even right in the middle of the cliff track to Winfred Beach !

5 Abbott’s Booby (S. abbotti)

Endemic. Uncommon. Most reliably seen in the late evening along Murray Road near the Plantation, as adult birds singly fly across the road on their return from the open sea to their nests or roosting trees. Most common on Christmas Island in March and April. One of the hardest birds to photograph on the island (unless you have the inclination to climb tall trees to photograph them in their nests, or lucky enough to have one rescued fallen bird rehabilitating at the Ranger’s home). Birds are usually seen when they return from the ocean in the late evenings after their day’s hunt, so be prepared for photography under very challenging light conditions. I have seen a solitary bird returning from the ocean at Margaret Knoll, and another at Low Point (between Lily Beach and Ethel Beach).

6 Red-footed Booby (S. sula)

Most common seabird on the island. Seen in flight near coastal and inland cliffs. Many nesting colonies in the forested cliffs of the Island. Most accessible nesting colonies along Lily Beach Road (especially around the slopes of Ryan Hill), at the Chinese Cemetery, and the Golf Course. Very visible and noisy bird that may perch only a few meters above (just beyond your reach) the road along Lily Beach Road. Many nests seen on the trees along Lily Beach Road. Birds in flight can be photograph from most vantage points on the island, including Margaret Knoll, Territory Day Park, Low Point, Chinese Cemetery, and along Lily Beach Road just before Ryan Hill.

7 Red-tailed Tropicbird (Silver Bosunbird) (Phaeton rubricauda)

Commonly seen flying off the coastal cliffs, especially at Smith Point and the north-eastern coast from Rocky Point to Mango Tree Lodge. Ground nesting, on protected ledges of steep ocean cliffs around the bases vegetation or in cavities. The most accessible nesting site is at The Sitting Room (ask the locals where this is) at The Settlement, in front of the old Governor’s House. Many nests there can be found around the base of the Pandanus sp. plants and protected limestone cavities on the coastal cliff ledge. Approach all nesting birds with due care, respect, and responsibility. It may be worth to know that the entire colony of nestlings at the Sitting Room (approximately 20 nests) was lost to feral cats during the 2006/2007 breeding season. Birds are most active during the middle of the day (11 am to about 2 pm)

8 White-tailed Tropicbird (Golden Bosunbird) (P. lepturus fulvus)

Endemic subspecies ‘fulvus’ based on the golden-apricot colour of adults. Occurs in all part of island from coast to inland plateau, but most commonly seen flying close to the coastal and inland cliffs of the settled north-eastern part of the island. Best viewing locations include Smith Point, the Visitors Centre, along Gaze Road (near the Police Station), George Fam Centre, and the lookout at Territory Day Park. Nests in tree hollows, among buttress roots, in cliff cavities and holes in limestone pinnacles left in quarry sites, also in pipes. A known accessible nest in a hole at the base of a dead tree on the roadside opposite the Poon Saan Club; over the years, this nest site has been repeated used. Birds are most active during the middle of the day (10 am to about 3 pm) with their aerial acrobatic performance.

9 Brown (Common) Noddy (Anous stolidus)

Common. Seen perched on the railings of the phosphate loader cantilevers, and on the mooring buoys and mooring lines at the dock. Nest on ledges of shoreline cliffs and in terrace forest trees. The best place to photograph these birds is at Flying Fish Cove where they nest on the limestone cliff on the right side (north) of the cove. Nests are also common on the cliffs at Lily Beach.

10 Pacific (Eastern) Reef Egret (Egretta sacra)

Uncommon. Can be seen foraging along shore. Both “white” and “grey” morphs seen. Best places to see this bird include the beach at Flying Fish Cove and the rocky shore at Waterfall Bay.

11 White-faced Heron (Ardea novaehollandiae)

Uncommon. Individual bird or in small groups foraging at the golf course and garbage dump (wet pit).

12 White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus)

Uncommon. Very shy bird. Most reliably seen at the garbage dump (tyres area), and at the entrance to the Resort.

13 Christmas Island Imperial Pigeon (Ducula whartoni)

Endemic. Common throughout the Island, where there are trees. The birds prefer the canopy of primary rainforest trees of the inland plateau, also secondary re-growth forests throughout the island. During the dry season, birds tend to come down to the ground to drink from water pools. Their call is distinctive and often heard in the forest. Often seen perched on the trees along Lily Beach Road near the crest of Ryan Hill. The refuse tip (near the south-eastern entrance) also has a large population of these pigeons.

14 Christmas Island Emerald Dove (Chalcophaps indica natalis)

Endemic subspecies. Common in wooded areas throughout the island, where individuals or pairs are seen foraging on the ground, always preferring shaded areas. I have consistently seen the Emerald Dove along the unsealed vehicular track to Margaret Knoll, and along the main road to the Resort (Golf Course Road) where it passes through a patch of heavy forest cover just before the entrance turnoff to Linkwater Road.

15 Christmas Island Goshawk (Accipiter fasciatus natalis)

Endemic subspecies. Uncommon but widespread throughout the island. A bird of closed canopy forest but frequents forest edges and some rather open areas. This bird is known to be friendly to humans, and a tendency to follow humans along their path in the forest. The most likely place to see this bird is along North-West Point Road and the Dales Road around the vicinity of the new Detention Centre. The bird has been seen at the entrance to the hospital, Margaret Knoll, the Plantation, at the end of Taman Sweetland Cresent, and even in the overgrown areas between Poon Saan and Silvercity. Some authors treated this bird as a full species of its own: Accipiter natalis.

16 Australian (Nankeen) Kestrel (Falco cenchroides)

Common. Individuals or pairs usually seen in open country widespread throughout the whole island. Often seen perched on roadside overhead wires and poles. The best place to photograph this bird on a natural perch includes the bare tree at VLU2 Radio Station in Drumsite, atop of the rock boulders in the phosphate stockpile area on Phosphate Hill, and on trees with open branches at the refuse tip.

17 Christmas Island Glossy Swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta natalis)

Endemic subspecies. Very common throughout the island, especially around wooded areas, often in low random erratic flight, while foraging for insects. Nest in the high ceilings of limestone caves. Even though very common and widespread, it is probably the most challenging of the resident birds to photograph. The most accessible nesting site is in the upper Daniel Roux Cave; on the cave ceiling about 30 metres beyond the cave entrance (just beneath the nesting site is a 4 metre high pile of guano ! You definitely cannot miss this phenomenal pile of guano)

18 Christmas Island Thrush (Turdus poliocephalus erythropleurus)

Endemic subspecies. Common and widespread throughout the island in varied habitats from settled areas to dense rainforest Usually seen foraging on the ground. Tame and approachable. Flies up to a low tree perch when flushed. One of the best places to find and photograph this bird is at Territory Day Park. Can be often seen in the gardens of homes.

19 Christmas Island White-eye (Zosterops natalis)

Endemic. Widespread. Extremely common (the most abundant bird on Christmas Island!), found throughout the island in all vegetated habitats – in gardens, roadside vegetation and forests. Moves around in flocks while foraging, twittering as they fly from bush to bush.

20 Java Sparrow (Padda oryzivora)

An uncommon introduced species. Confined to the settled areas of the Island where small flocks can be seen, especially at disturbed areas of re-growth. Usually in small flocks and may be in mixed flocks with the Eurasian Tree Sparrow. Very shy bird and difficult to approach. The best opportunity to photograph the bird is during the very early morning in the garden of a home opposite VQ3 Lodge in the Settlement. This is private property so ask for permission first! A small population at Territory Day Park.

21 Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus)

Common introduced species. Confined to the settled areas of the Island where small flocks can be seen.

22 Christmas Island Hawk-Owl (Ninox natalis)

Endemic. Uncommon but widespread occurring throughout the island. Roost in the dense primary and secondary rainforest on both the island plateau and coastal terraces during the day, but comes out to the forest edge trees to hunt at dusk. Occasionally seen in more open areas such as along roadsides and in settled areas (e.g. hawking insects from around lights). Best opportunity to see the owl is to spot-light for them just after dusk perching on the understory branches of trees at the edge of the Golf Course. The owls can often be heard calling; they will respond to, and will be attracted to a recorded playback call.

Crabs

With 14 species of land crabs, Christmas Island is home to the most remarkable abundance and diversity of land crabs in the world. The most famous of the land crabs is the Red Crabs (Gecarcoidea natalis), which at the onset of the annual wet season, usually between November and December, embark on a spectacular and dangerous migration journey from their forest burrows in the high central plateau to the sea to breed, and then returning. This is truly one of nature’s most incredible displays that probably occur nowhere else in the world.

Red Crabs climbing cliff wall at Ethel Beach

The annual spectacle of the Red Crab migration attracts the interest of international visitors, as well as the local community. This unique natural event can be easily observed everywhere, as ubiqutious crabs would often even enter homes on the migration route. During peak migration period, sections of roads where crabs cross in high numbers may be closed to vehicles. The zenith of the migration is the spawning of eggs into the ocean by the female crabs. Around the time of the last quarter moon, the egg-laden females descend from the terraces to the shoreline, packing into shaded areas above the waterline at densities of up to 100 per square metre in places to await the right moment. At the turn of the pre-dawn high tide, the females would enter the sea to release their eggs in a frenzy. The best places to watch the spectacular pre-dawn spawning are at Flying Fish Cove, Ethel Beach and Greta Beach.

Red Crabs spawming at Ethel Beach

Although occurring in most of the tropical islands of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, Christmas Island boasts of the largest population of the giant Robber Crabs (Birgus latro) in the world. Also known as Coconut Crabs, these gigantic crabs could live to as long as 40 to 60 years old. They are found in most parts of the island, from the shore terraces to the highest forested plateau areas, generally seeking shelter by day and venturing to the open at night or on overcast days. The other very conspicuous land crab on Christmas Island is the Blue Crab (Discoplax hirtipes) which prefers the wetter parts of the island. Active during the day, the Blue Crabs are seen in large numbers at the Dales, and along the track to Dolly Beach.

Mammals

Of the five native mammals, two have become extinct since the arrival of humans. The Christmas Island Flying-fox (Pteropus melanotus natalis) is an endemic subspecies which was formerly widespread, but has experienced significant population declines. Unlike other bats, the Christmas Island Flying-fox is active in the day and can often be seen flying and feeding even at midday. Evenings at Margaret Knoll is one of the best places to see and photograph the flying-foxes soaring with the wind from their roosts on the coastal terrace to the central plateau to feed. When mangos are in season, the flying-fox are also often seen feeding on mango trees at Territory Day Park, Smith Point, and the Pink House.

Christmas Island Flying-fox flying pass Margaret Knoll

The Christmas Island Pipistrelle Bat (Pipistrellus murrayi), which is an endemic small insectivorous bat, was previously common and widespread on the Island. However, in the last decade it has declined markedly in distribution and abundance, and is now also classified as critically endangered. The Christmas Island Shrew (Crocidura attenuata trichura) was thought to be extinct before two specimens were found in 1984 and 1985, and it is now listed as Critically Endangered. There have been no confirmed sightings since.

Reptiles

Of the six native terrestrial reptiles, five are endemic. The sixth is the Foreshore Skink (Emoia atrocostata), common also on other oceanic islands. The five endemics include two skinks, the Blue-tailed Skink (Crytptoblepharus egeriae) and the Forest Skink (Emoia nativitatis); two geckos, the Giant Gecko (Cryptodactylus sp. nov.) and the Tree Gecko (Lepidodactylus listeri); and one burrowing snake, the Pink Blind Snake (Ramphotyphlops exocoeti). There has been a marked decline in the range of several species over the previous decade. Five exotic terresterial reptiles comprising two geckos, one skink and two snakes occur in and around the settled area. These are regionally abundant species associated with human colonisation. All introduced reptiles on Christmas Island are found in the park, but some like the Grass Skink are more common than others. The House Gecko (Gehyra mutilata), the Barking Gecko (Hemidactylus frenatus), and the Black Blind Snake (Ramphotyphlops braminus) are found in the Park. The Wolf Snake (Lycodon aulicus capucinus) appears to be moving further into the rainforest, and grass skinks (Lygosoma bowringii) have recently been seen on the fringe of the Park rainforest. With the exception of the House Gecko, reptiles on Christmas Island are generally very hard to find.

Turtle tracks on Dolly Beach

As for marine reptiles, turtles are not an uncommon sight swimming in the clear blue waters around Christmas Island. For those not keen in getting wet, Green and Hawksbill Turtles are known to lay their eggs on Dolly and Greta beaches.

Butterflies, Insects and Invertebrates

Don’t forget to pack along your macro lens as well. The inventory of invertebrate fauna, which has several hundred collected specimens still awaiting identification, has described 14 snails, several butterflies (28 species as of 2006), some 70 moths, 90 beetles, 30 spiders, one scorpion, five false scorpions and one amphilicid. There are a number of introduced insects including the Honey Bee, a centipede species, a cockroach species, two termite species, two fruit fly species, several species of spiders, and the giant African snail. 53 species of ants have been introduced to the island, which is probably more than any other island in the world. The most concerning of these is the Yellow Crazy Ants (Anoplolepis gracilipes) which are originally from Africa. Since 1997, the population of the Yellow Crazy Ant has exploded and has formed multi-queened super-colonies at several locations on the Island. This very aggressive insect has cause much devastation to the wildlife of the island. Their formic acid spray is capable of overpowering sizeable creatures like reptiles and Robber Crabs, and has been estimated to have killed 10-20 million Christmas Island Red Crabs since.

Golden orb web spider

Marine Life

Christmas Island offers some of the best scuba diving experiences in the world. The island is surrounded by a narrow tropical reef, which supports a rich array of marine life, including hundreds of species of tropical fish and many varieties of unspoiled coral. Not far beyond, the reef plunges into a bottomless abyss. Rises dramatically from the edge of the Java Trench, the deepest point in the Indian Ocean, the waters around Christmas Island provides endless kilometres of spectacular wall diving. Pelagics like rainbow runner, trevally & tuna cruise along the walls and the occasional shark comes up for a curious look. The northern coast in particular boasts some of the most unspoiled corals in the world such as Acropora & plate corals which play host to a wide variety of small tropical species such as surgeon fish, wrasse, butterfly fish, gobies, anemones, eels and many others which are a photographer’s delight. Coinciding with the Red crab migration, Whale shark (Rhincodon typus) sightings are common in the waters just off the island. There are a number of dive operators on the Island. Snorkelling equipment can also be hired for who cannot dive. Contact the Christmas Island Tourism Association (cita@christmas.net.au) for more details.

General Information

Where to Stay

There are limited options on the island for accommodation, and with only about a maximum of 100 rooms available on the island at any time, it is wise to book your accommodations well in advance during the peak tourist season. There is also no budget or backpackers accommodation for those on a shoestring budget. The lodges are generally small but have a very relaxed atmosphere to them. Some rooms come with the basics (e.g. a microwave and fridge) to help you with your own light meals. Room prices will range from A$90-130. There are also self-contained holiday cabins for let.

Contact the Christmas Island Tourism Association for more details and bookings.

Getting Around

There is a good network of roads on the island. Car hire is good way to get around the island, and the unsealed tracks are manageable even by off-road novices. There are a handful of taxis (Island Taxi: +61439215644) on the island too but this is not really very practical for exploring the island. There is no public bus service on the island. Bicycle hire is available from the Visitor’s Centre but the very hilly nature of the island, and the heavy loads carried by a photographer makes this means of transport rather impractical.

4wd track on Christmas Island

Both two-wheel and four- drive wheel (usually a Toyota Rav 4) vehicles available from Kiat Car Hire (+61891648665, +61439215678), and Soong Car Rental (+61891648191, +61439215889). Vehicle numbers are limited and hence pre-booking is highly recommended. Car hire can also be booked through the Christmas Island Tourism Association. There is only one petrol station on the island with limited operating hours.

When to go

If its the crab migration you are primarily aiming for, then Nov-Dec* is the best time to go; this would also be a good time for Whale sharks too. January to July would be good for breeding seabirds. October to March is the main bird migration period, is good for twitchers looking to tick off Asian vagrants from their Australian checklist.

Calendar for Bird Breeding on Christmas Island

Crab migration is triggered by the arrival of the rains, and this can vary from year to year. The expected Nov-Dec 2007 crab migration was short-lived due to poor rainfall then, and the main migration season was delayed to January 2008.

Annual Bird & Nature Week

An annual event that promotes bird and nature conservation, with lots of hands on involvement by participants to assist scientists in their research. Daily field trips and talks. Click here [2] for further information on Bird Week 2008, 5 – 11 September 2008.

Costs

The currency used is the Australian Dollar. Cost of living on the island is comparable to mainland Australia, and in some cases more expensive due to its remote location. It is a duty free island though, so no GST payable. The following gives you an idea of what things costs on the island:

• Accommodation AUD 85-125

• Diving AUD 140 for two dives or snorkelling tour 25-35AUD/2-3 hours

• Bike rental AUD 55 per week or car rental (Toyota Rav4) AUD75/day

• Meals AUD 10-30 per meal

• Coke AUD 1.35 or beer AUD 1.70

What else to bring (besides your camera)

There are no ATMs on the island. So make sure you bring Australian cash. The only bank is Westpac (Mon – Fri: 0900 – 1500 hrs) has full banking services including foreign exchange, but no ATM service. EFTPOS card owners can opt for cash-back at the supermarket when you buy goods above AUD25.

An adapter for Australian power sockets would be useful; although some of the lodges and Visitor’s Centre have adapters you could borrow. A power gang would be a good idea for charging those multiple batteries, powering the laptop, etc.

Mosquito repellent is crucial during the wet season (Dec – Apr) – there are lots of very mean mosquitoes everywhere

Snacks and food items – the supermarkets have limited stock, so do pack energy bars or to cater for any special dietary requirements. But do check with the Australian customs website for information on what food items are not allowed in (e.g., dairy products). Custom is very strict and all luggage is checked when you land.

Also do remember your weight allowance on flights is usually 20 kg. This may add a considerable cost if you are bringing in camera and diving gear.

Facilities

There are a number of cafes, coffee shops and restaurants on the island, offering a variety of cuisines. Some of the main ones include:

• Malay Club (Kampong Melayu) – a great place to meet local Malays and enjoy a roti prata or nasi lemak.

• Noodle House (The Settlement) – open only for lunch.

• Emayson’s Café (CI Recreation Club, near airport) – snacks all day, everyday till 5 pm.

• Yoong Chong (Poon Saan) – Chinese restaurant open for lunch and dinner, close on Tuesdays. Food is so-so only.

• Season’s Palace (Poon Saan) – Chinese restaurant open for dinner, close on Mondays. Place looks a little dingy looking but serves good food!

• Poon Su Coffee Shop (Poon Saan) – yup, a traditional Chinese kopi tiam on Christmas Island! Breakfast and brunch. Below Season’s Palace Very popular for with the locals and all food usually sold out by 11 am.

• Golden Bosun Tavern (The Settlement) – opens daily and caters for European tastes – Island-style dining. Caters for lunch & dinner daily. A brunch menu is on Sundays.

• Rumah Tinggi Tavern & Restaurant (The Settlement) – opens daily for dinner. European meals.

• Seaview Fish & Chips (Poon Saan) – below Season’s Palace and open on evenings only.

• Waterfall Restaurant (CI Resort) – modern European cuisine with diverse a-la-carte menu. Breakfast and dinner. Close on Tuesdays.

Groceries can be bought from the local supermarket in The Settlement or from small grocery shops in Poon Saan, Drumsite and Kampong. There are several picnic and barbeque venues (free gas usage) around the island where you may cook for yourself or take a picnic basket. Supplies can be bought at the local grocery stores or supermarket.

Halal BBQ at Flying Fish Cove

There is a branch of the Westpac bank on the island and a Post Office.

Visas & Permits

As you are travelling into Australia territory, an Australia Visitor’s Visa is needed. Please refer to the Australian Immigration official website [3]. You do not need a permit to enter the National Park areas, but camping is not allowed within the park. You can get permission to camp on its beaches though.

How to get there

Twice weekly flights operated by National Jet Systems [4] depart from Perth, Western Australia to Cocos and Christmas Islands. Austasia Airlines (Using SilkAir A320 Charter) operate a weekly (Thursdays) return charter flight from Singapore to Christmas Island. Australian Indian Ocean Territories Airlines (Using Malaysian Airlines 737-400 Charter) will operate a weekly (Mondays) return charter flight from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (operations starts from 2 June 2008) Current flight information for flights to and from Christmas Island is as follows:

Singapore – Christmas Island

Published fares are in Australian Dollars, and excludes taxes (AUD 231)

For flights and Christmas Island packages from Singapore :

Eco Adventures Worldwide (Pte) Ltd

Phone : +65 6538 4441, + 65 65380630 Fax : + 65 98508830 Email: eaw@eaw.com.sg Web: www.adventures.com.sg/CI/

Perth – Christmas & Cocos Islands

Due to the introduction of daylight saving in Western Australia, the following schedule will be applicable for the period 26 March 2008 – 28 October 2008.

Please contact the Christmas Island Tourism Association, National Jet Systems, or your Travel Agent for details of additional Saturday services

The following schedule will be applicable for the period 29 October 2008 – to the end of daylight saving 2009.

Please contact the Christmas Island Tourism Association, National Jet Systems, or your Travel Agent for details of additional Saturday services

Published fares are in Australian Dollars, and excludes taxes

Kuala Lumpur – Christmas Island

Published fares are in Australian Dollars, and excludes taxes

For flights and Christmas Island packages from Malaysia :

Travel Exchange Christmas Island Phone : + 61 (0)8 9164 7096 Fax : + 61 (0)8 9164 7660 Email : enquiries@travelxch.com.cx

Click here for a list of local travel agents [5]

Guide Books & Maps

The best visitor’s guide book on Christmas Island is The Essential Christmas Island Travel Guide by Beth & Shaun Tierney (ISBN 978-0-646-47591-2). This can be purchased from the Visitor’s Centre, or you can mail order the book from them. There are a number of other very good publications sold at the Visitor’s Centre. You can find out more here. [6]

Parks Australia North, the management authority for Christmas Island National Park published a number of excellent free brochures that is very informative. You can get physical copies of the brochures from the Visitor’s Centre or you can download them from the internet: Christmas Island National Park – Wildlife Brochures [7]

The recommended bird guide book for Christmas Island is The Christmas and Cocos-Keeling Islands Birding Guide originally written by Ghes Valenzuela & David James, and updated by Lisa Preston in 2008. This book is available at the Visitor’s Centre and at the office of Island Explorer Holidays.