Birding at Top End of Australia

20 March 2008 No Comment

Birding at Top End of Australia

“The Top End is the second northernmost point on the continent of Australia, behind the Cape York Peninsula. It covers a rather vaguely-defined area of perhaps 400,000 square kilometres bounded by sea on three sides (the Indian Ocean on the west, the Arafura Sea to the north, and the Gulf of Carpentaria to the east), and by the almost waterless semi-arid interior of Australia to the south.” – quote from wikipedia

Author & Editor

Author: MountainMan

Editor: <Please add your name here if you have edit this article>

Photographs and article are copyright of MountainMan

Introduction

Since Australia (and the Top End) is such a massive place, I have for convenience divided it into 4 geographical regions:

1. Darwin and Around 2. Fogg Dam and Mary River 3. Kakadu National Park 4. Stuart Highway towards Katherine

If you have only 7 days in the Top End, and I think you would adopt a more leisurely pace that what I am used to, I would suggest that you spend 2 – 3 days in Darwin, then 4 days to drive through the Arnhem Highway to Fogg Dam, Mary River, towards the Northern entrance of Kakadu, do a loop of Kakadu National Park and out through the south and visiting Pine Creek before heading back to Darwin – still a rather ambitious plan.

Darwin & Around

Listed are in order of priority of preference. Hence if you got no time, forget those down the list.

1. Leanyer Sewage Ponds

Habitat: fresh water wetlands (with an attitude and smell)

My favourite birding spot because of the close proximity you can get to the birds in a large area, and you can drive all around the ponds. You will get use to the smell. To get access, you need to contact PowerWater (NT) to make arrangements for the access key pass. Contact Dawn @ to make prior arrangements. When you arrive in Darwin, you can only collect the key on a weekday from 0900 to 1600 hrs at their facility on Illiffe Street, Stuart Park. Ask Dawn for the exact directions to get there. You will have to sign and indemnity form, a contract, and pay a refundable deposit of AUD$50. You can only return the key on weekdays too.

2. Lee Point and Buffalo Creek

Habitat: coastal saline wetland, and mangrove at Buffalo Creek

Lee Point was one of my favourite spots for the migrating waders. But if you are there during the wrong season, you will still find terns and other resident seabirds there. Dogs are still allowed in some parks of the beach and this will scare off the birds – go to those area that forbid dogs. Also remember to check out the trees/shrubs before the beaches for the honeyeaters and other shrub-land passerines. Buffalo Creek is busy with recreational boaters and people. So the best time is early morning. The right is a mangrove and the left is the sandy beach. The sandy beach is continuous to Lee Point and is good for the same birds as described for Lee Point. The right mangrove is one of the spots where you might see an exposed Chestnut Rail. Ideal situation is 4 meter tide and going down, and early in the morning with no one around. Difficult criterions to satisfy! Just before the turnoff to Buffalo Creek along the Lee Point Road is a caravan park. Stay here! The park ground has a fairly large shaded patch (exposed enough for easy photography) where the Bush Stone Curlews roost in the day. This is a gold spot – use the vehicle as a hide to shoot; I drove up the kerb amongst the trees to get close to them. SHIOK!

3. Darwin Botanic Gardens

Habitat: park/garden and small clusters of tropical rainforest

Key species is the Rufous Owl that roost high up on the taller trees throughout the year. The tree that I found the owl last was recently “managed” so I think the birds would have migrated elsewhere by now. Look up high in the trees for them. The Garden is also good for the typical garden birds (honeyeaters, etc.), and has a large number of ibises on the lawns. I also found this place to be the best to find the Orange-footed Scrubfowl. Have fun!

3. East Point Reserve

Habitat: coastal forest, with some tropical rainforest and mangroves

Another good spot for passerines. The coast is too far out for me to get close enough and some cliffs are too high for me to bother, but I found the flowering and fruiting trees good for passerines at P3 (McCrie). The stretch of mangrove beach on the right (P4 on McCrie) is known to have the Beach Stone Curlew. I found some oystercatchers there. Very skittish birds. At P2, there is a small track into the tropical rainforest. The Rainbow Pitta can sometimes be seen there – See Howard Springs Nature Reserve.

4. Howard Springs Nature Reserve

Habitat: Tropical Rainforest.

The star spot for the Rainbow Pitta. Take the jungle walk on the left walking slowly and looking on the ground around for the pitta. By the time you get to a wooden bridge along the path and not seen the pitta yet, wait at the bridge for the pitta to appear. Best time is early morning or late evening, on a cloudy day. If you really gungho, you can walk along the forest stream (very xiong) to look for the tiny and skittish Little Kingfisher. Photographing them would take a miracle. The swimming area and wooded area around the park is also good for other forest birds.

5. Knuckey Lagoons

Habitat: fresh water wetland

My favourite spot for flying Magpie Goose. Very difficult to get close to them, but never say never. Also got the green pygmy goose, Comb-crested Jacana, Jabiru, etc, but hell to get photographs of them; much easier to nail them at Yellow Water (the cruise) or at Fogg Dam.

6. McMinns Lagoons

Habitat: fresh water wetland

Another spot for the Magpie Goose but not as good as Kunckey Lagoon. You can skip this spot if you don’t have time, but it’s on the junction of the Stuart Highway and Arnhem Highway, so you can make it a stopover look-see on your way to Fogg Dam.

7. Others

Charles Darwin National Park – Habitat: Mangrove – another place with a chance to see the Chestnut Rail. Lots of walking to do, lots of biting mossies and sandflies. BEWARE!

Nightcliff Foreshore – one of the best places for waders but you are on the wrong season. If you were in Darwin in Sept/Oct, Nightcliff will be #2 on the list! The coastal casuarina trees are still good for garden birds and a chance to see a roosting Frogmouth. I never did see it.

Casuarine Coastal Reserve – coastal habitat; one of the best place to find non-feathered birds (there is a nudist beach there), but also not bad for the feathered variety. I never did explore this place too much as it is rather suspicious for a man looking through a huge telephoto lens at naked ladies on the beach

Fogg Dam and Mary River

Listed is the sites from west to east along the Arnham Highway towards Kakadu.

1. Fogg Dam

Habitat: fresh water wetland.

This place is great. It is a single lane road that goes across a low dam. Birding is from the vehicle but park in such that another vehicle can pass. Look at the trees (and not just the wetlands) too, as the kingfishers, finches, and other passerines are there).

2. Beatrice Lagoons

Habitat: fresh water wetland.

Along the roadside (Arnhem Highway). Yes it’s on the side of a highway, but Australian highways are like Malaysian kampong roads as can park by the side safely. Just drive slow and look for photographable birds. Again you are at the wrong season – end of the wet, meaning too much water everywhere so the birds are all diluted out. The best time is actually the end of the dry when the birds are concentrated in a few ponds and waterholes (aka Sept/Oct/Nov)

3. Adelaide River Bridge

Reputed to be good but I didn’t have much success here.

4. Leaning Tree Lagoon

Habitat: fresh water wetland.

A great spot but damn hard to approach the birds. Need a 4wd to get round the lagoon too. Might be too much effort for the birds here.

5. Mary River Park

Reputed to be a top birding spot but I didn’t find much there, nor did I have much time there. Spent overnight at the Mary River Caravan Park; the birding spot actually. I am cheapo, but if you feel rich enough, you can hire a guide from the caravan park to show you the birds. I am sure you will better success than me if you did so. He will bring you to Bird Billabong.

Additional Notes:

Do visit the Window on the Wetland Visitor Centre, between Fogg Dam and Adelaide River. It is very informative and you can get an idea of what it feels to be like being a mudskipper on the mudflats with a egret waiting to pounce upon you

Kakadu National Park

Listed is the sites from west to east along the Arnham Highway, and then south towards Pine Creek.

1. 4 Mile Hole

Habitat: fresh water wetland.

A isolated place and hence loads of birds. Need a 4wd to get there. Ambitious destination.

2. South Aliigator River and marshes along Arnhem Highway

I was driving along the highway when I got very very close to a pair of Brolgas (too near that I had to reverse to fit them into my frame!). The wetlands / marshes are a few metres off the road shoulder so drive so and keep a lookout eye for birds near.

3. Aurora Campervan Park

Habitat: Park/Garden.

I stayed here. Great for the Little Corellas and roosting Magpie Geese. Ask the reception where to find the roosting birds.

4. Marmukala Wetland

Habitat: fresh water wetland.

Birds are quite far off otherwise. Faces east, so evening shoot location.

5. Ubirr

Habitat: Sandstone escarpment.

One of the few places where you may see the escarpment birds – Chestnut-quilled Rock Pigeon and Sandstone Shrike thrush. Look at the top of the sandstone ridges, especially the shaded ones. Read McCrie for the best spot to sit, wait and watch. Good luck. If you miss the birds as I did, the Aboriginal art there is just astounding, and the sunset views from the hill top lookout is a thing not to be missed.

6. Nourlangie

Habitat: Sandstone escarpment.

Another spot to try finding those bloody escarpment birds, but also a chance to find the Banded Fruit Dove and white lined honeyeater. I never did see any of them, but the Aboriginal art galleries and walks more than made up for the lack of birds.

7. Yellow Water Cruise

Habitat: fresh water wetland.

Don’t miss this one. I shot 8Gs worth of CF on this short 2 hour boat ride. Best time is the very first tour in the morning. Very popular cruise so I highly advise you to make bookings for a seat onboard before you even leave Singapore. http://www.yellowwatercruises.com/

Remember: the very first cruise in the morning!

Take the very first row of seats (since first come first serve, you have to arrive very early to get the good seats). A shorter lens is useful as some birds are so close and the boat movt makes using a long telephoto difficult. I still manages 8Gs with a 600 mm ! Bring your 500mmm prime mounted on tripod onboard, and handhold the shorter lens (which I assume is your Nikon zoom). If you sit infront, you will have enough space for your tripod mounted lens and the handheld weapons. It’s all up to you now.

I found the rest of Kakadu quite uneventful. I went to many of the waterfalls but found nothing great there.

Stuart Highway

1. Pine Creek

Must go! Birding haven. Chance to photograph the Hooded Parrot, which can be anywhere in town. Drive up the Water Tower road (my favourite spot),and the Mine Lookout. I drove round and round the town a few times, and round and round the Water Gardens park (where the police station is conveniently located too) a few times. The locals are quite used to circling idiots like us looking for birds so don’t worry about the police getting suspicious of you circling the town with a huge telephoto . The sewage pond across the Stuart Highway is also sticking out of your window is also not bad, but you have to shoot thru the fence.

2. Copperfield Dam

Habitat: fresh water wetland.

Not far from Pine Creek but towards the direction of Katherine and 3.5 km off the Stuart Highway. Can miss this place if you already very tired of fresh water wetland habitat. Lots and lots of lizards there. Free camping spot.

3. Others

I list the rest of locations down the Stuart Highway towards Katherine which are excellent but I think you will not have time.

Fergusson River – another chance to find the Hooded Parrot and riverine birds

Mataranka / Elsey National Park – This is a great place. The best birding place is the Campervan Park itself (Mataranka Caravan Park) located at the entrance to the hot water springs of Elsey National Park. One of the trees infront of the reception is one of the few known roosting site for the Red Goshawk in Australia!!! Don’t miss this one if you are there. Place also great for parrots, kookaburras, friarbirds, figbirds, etc. The apostlebirds are so friendly there that you can almost catch them for dinner. I would highly recommend you this place if you have the time. The end of John Hauser Drive is a seldom used campsite (not sure as you are there during the peak of the tourist season… bad news!), and hence I found many birds there too

Berry Springs & Teritory Wildlife Park

Lake Resort and Caravan Park

The Lake Resort and Caravan Park in Berry Spring near the Territory Wildlife Park is quite good for birds, and frogs. I got quite a number of garden birds within the caravan parking area itself, and there are numerous tree frogs hiding in the power boxes at the powered sites of the park. There is a large lake in the property that you can drive round and I was told that you can get quite a number of fresh water wetland birds there… the typical ones I guess. I did not do the lake because I only found out about it during my checkout http://www.lakesresortcaravanpark.com.au/

Territory Wildlife Park

This would be WK’s favorite place. It’s like our Jurong Bird Park, but of much lower level and quality. Don’t expect too much here. Many of the birds are in closed compounds behind glass panes, but you can get to see some of the rare birds of the region, such as the Hooded Parrot and Rainbow Pitta. Good place to learn how to ID the birds. If you don’t have time, give this place a big miss.

Transportation and accommodations

I would recommend you a campervan (especially a 4wd campervan) that have an internal cabin air conditioner. You will appreciate the air con once you realise how much bugs that bite you there in the night. The campervan gives you the option of bush camping away from people but near the birds as I did. Caravan park fees are also cheaper and more common than hotels in the outback. Since you are there during the peak of the tourist season, I suggest you book all your accommodations needs, i.e. the powered sites in the caravan park (if not you will end up with no power, and of course no air con then!). Even more important to book accomodation if you intend NOT to have a campervan but a normal car and staying in cabins. You will regret if you don’t book !!! You may have to end up sleeping in the car!

For campervans, book either Britz (http://www.britz.com.au/) or Trailmaster (http://www.trailmaster.com.au/). There is a lower end version of campervan offered by Britz under the banner of Backpacker (http://www.backpackercampervans.com/). I rented from this company when I was touring the Top End.

There is Apollo (http://www.apollocamper.com/), but I don’t like their offer. My preference is Trailmaster. Book for your vehicle ASAP. The smaller the campervan, the easier to drive, and more easy to park by the road side to shoot birds (remember Fogg Dam hor!).

Reference

Books

1. Finding Birds in Darwin Kakadu & the Top End by Niven McCrie and James Watson (http://ntbirds.net/)

– the gold standard “finding birds” reference. 2nd edition just released so very updated. Must buy.

2. Finding Birds in Australia’s Northern Territory by Donato, Wilkins, Smith, Langford (1997)

– a bit dated so not so good, but I still it useful for additional notes not found in the above.

3. FIELD GUIDE To AUSTRALIAN BIRDS by Michael Morcombe

(http://www.michaelmorcombe.com.au/birdguide.html)

– in my opinion the better bird guide book

4. Field Guide to the Birds of Australia – Graham Pizzey & Frank Knight (2003)

– my second choice as a bird guide book

5. Lonely Planet Northern Territory

Maps

1. Hema Map – Top End and the Gulf – very useful map

2. Hema Map – Kakadu National Park – ok lah, especially if you are exploring Kakadu extensively. If not maps from the National Park should suffice

Internet

Kakadu National Park – http://www.environment.gov.au/parks/kakadu/

Birds Australia Book References – http://www.birdingaustralia.com.au/shop.html

Map of Kakadu – http://www.environment.gov.au/parks/…map-large.html

NRETA Site – Good for information regarding most of the Parks managed by the NT Government; Parks are listed in Alphabetic order, so very easy to find – http://www.nt.gov.au/nreta/parks/find/index.html

Some of my ‘catch’!

White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina papuensis

One of the most common bird in the Top End, but also one of the most difficult to photograph. It tends to hid in the higher canopy and amongst the branches and leaves. Out of my many attempts at this bird, I have only two keepers to share, and both not to my satisfaction still!

Varied Triller Lalage leucomela Lakes Resort Caravan Park, Berry Springs 21st Nov 2006

Not as common as the White-winged triller, the Varied Triller is slightly more colourful with brown scalloping of its breast. I got only one single keeper shot of this bird!

Apostlebird Struthidea cinerea Elsey National Park 16th Nov 2006

Comb-crested Jacana Irediparra gallinacea Sandy Billabong, Kakadu National Park, NT 26th Nov 2006

Dusky Honeyeater Myzomela obscura Mary River Park 28th Nov 2006

One of the rarer honeyeaters. I was very lucky to have chanced upon this one single bird bathing around a water sprinkler at Mary River Park. Yes, water sprinklers are one of the best places to hang around to stake out for birds (TIP !!!)